At a recent visit to the dealership, it was suggested that I use 10W40 oil for the Tour DCT rather then the 10W30 the manual states. Has anyone been using 10W40 and if so, have you noticed any difference in performance?
10W30 vs 10W40
Gcube
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I've gone to several dealers and they tell me I can run anything in there.....even 20 - 50.
I want to make sure I don't damage anything with the wrong oil in there, being under warranty, if I damage something, I will be the one footing the bill.
I called Honda and asked them about using the Honda HP4S Synthetic oil and they said that was ok to use in there. It is 10-30. I will be using that.
Partzilla has it for $9.30 a Qt.
I don't know if a thicker oil will affect the DCT or not, so I don't want to use it until I hear some real world results on this board.
I want to make sure I don't damage anything with the wrong oil in there, being under warranty, if I damage something, I will be the one footing the bill.
I called Honda and asked them about using the Honda HP4S Synthetic oil and they said that was ok to use in there. It is 10-30. I will be using that.
Partzilla has it for $9.30 a Qt.
I don't know if a thicker oil will affect the DCT or not, so I don't want to use it until I hear some real world results on this board.
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It won't affect anything.
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When I did my first oil change I put in Golden Spectro fully synthetic 10W-40 and immediately noticed a difference I didn’t like. It shifted as if the clutch was slipping. The shifts were longer than they used to be. Of note, my wife even noticed it and she is completely devoid of any mechanical knowledge. I did the clutch initialization and it improved somewhat but not to my liking. I immediately drained out all that nice expensive oil and put in Amsoil fully synthetic 10W-30 and after a few km’s It went back to normal. It will be 10W-30 for me from now on.
Copy and paste from 2018 owners manual:
Recommended engine oil
API Service Classification SG or higher except oils labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving on the circular API
service label, SAE 10W-30, JASO T 903 standard MA, Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil
(USA & Canada) or Honda 4-stroke oil, or an equivalent motorcycle oil
If you can't get the best oil possible (100% original, undiluted sperm whale oil), run the next best - Rotella T6. Been running that in DCTs for many, many years without any issue. Sure, it's 5W40 - but it works fine, at least for me (when I can't source my undiluted sperm whale oil, that is).
Honestly, it will not hurt anything at all. I run 10w40 in the summer months and 10w30 in the winter months. I recently changed my oil and tried the Castrol Actevo 10w40. It's part synthetic and rated JASO MA/MA2 because it is a motorcycle oil. So far, my shifting has been a lot smoother than when I ran the GN-4 Honda oil. Now as far as the Rotella T6 5w40, yes it is rated JASO MA/MA2 and would be really inexpensive especially when purchased from Walmart. Let's just say that I am a little reluctant to do so even though many on these forums swear by it. So bottom line, don't be afraid to use 10w40.
Big H
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Sure that is what is "recommend", but what is required?
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I've been using castrol syn motorcycle oil, BUT I decided to listen to what Goldwinger Gregg recommended witch was the Honda GN4 4 stock oil and i have to say that Gregg was correct, my bike never shifted smoother......... Thank you Gregg! (i'll listen more when you speak!)
Ronnie
Ronnie
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"Fascinated ??" You're being kind. I would choose a different word. But, I get your drift. Me too !!! To risk great possible harm for literally a few dollars ?!?!?!? Unreal !!
Maybe the Concours transmissions need something different. I know that T6 is pretty much the "go to" for the Honda DCT rides: Africa Twin, CTX700, NM4. I've got close to 60K miles on my old CTX700 with it, no problems ever. Hundreds of folks on forums related to those rides without any issues - and dozens with over 100K miles on their bike.
But, if someone wants to run something else, go for it. T6 meets or exceeds all specifications listed - and it's always available, nearly everywhere.
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I normally run full synthetic oil in my bikes and cars. But my 18 GW had a problem early on with burning oil. It seems to have subsided now that I am approaching 4K miles, but nonetheless I bought 2 gallons of GN4 10w30 and will use that oil for my 4k oil & filter change.
I want to give the engine as much chance to seat those rings as I can. When I get to 8K I will reconsider and may switch to full synthetic at that time.
I want to give the engine as much chance to seat those rings as I can. When I get to 8K I will reconsider and may switch to full synthetic at that time.
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I put Mobil 1 15/50 in mine and it made a horrable racket near the heads. It sort-of wanted to go away, but not really. A cold start would include the noise and slowly fade a bit. I ended up getting some Honda 10/30 syn-blend and the engine sound went back to normal and I have not heard the very loud ticking since. I also looked through manuals and the only oil weight reference anyplace is 10/30.
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