I have my manual packed away and I'm trying to find the torque spec's for the oil drain plug and the oil filter. My bike is an 08, does anyone have this info handy?
Oil Drain plug torque spec and oil filter
Winger Dan
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I have my manual packed away and I'm trying to find the torque spec's for the oil drain plug and the oil filter. My bike is an 08, does anyone have this info handy?
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I never torque. Just snug it up by feel. Maybe I have a extra sensitive feel but I just changed by spark plugs and did it by feel. Never has let me down since '64 when I started riding. Now if I did some critical things I would torque but never had to do any of those.
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The 06-08 manual states 19 for the filter and 25 for the plug. I do hand tight on the filter and tight enough on the plug. :thumbup:
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Leave your manual packed you do not need it.
Install the oil filter by hand, just as tight as you can turn it by hand. Put the drain plug in run it up and then bump the wrench with the palm of your hand and leave it alone.
This is how it is done in the real world. Never a problem and you do not run the risk of messing up thread or with time and repeat torque on things that are over and over serviced tearing the threads.
Really not sure why they require a torque value on these things. No one ever does it, and even in automotive applications instructions on the filter say, hand tight and then 1/4 turn. So hand tight is cool.
Never seen one leak yet.
But I have had to use pump pliers or a hammer and chisel to remove a filter that was torqued. They get so stuck with the heat and the gasket they are not coming off with any ordinary method.
Install the oil filter by hand, just as tight as you can turn it by hand. Put the drain plug in run it up and then bump the wrench with the palm of your hand and leave it alone.
This is how it is done in the real world. Never a problem and you do not run the risk of messing up thread or with time and repeat torque on things that are over and over serviced tearing the threads.
Really not sure why they require a torque value on these things. No one ever does it, and even in automotive applications instructions on the filter say, hand tight and then 1/4 turn. So hand tight is cool.
Never seen one leak yet.
But I have had to use pump pliers or a hammer and chisel to remove a filter that was torqued. They get so stuck with the heat and the gasket they are not coming off with any ordinary method.
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992 Posts
Thanks for the info. One time I used the hand tighten method then put the torque wrench on the filter to see if and addition torque was required and it was very close to the required torque. This is not a scientific test by any means. 
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Yes, driving a screw driver in the damn thing is no fun. It's close work on that oil filter.
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I found my book after all, it was packed due to the move but the box wasn't where I thought it was. It was on top of my work bench, :hun1: go figure. Anyway, I got the rear brake pads replaced and an oil change. I also found my maintenance log book and I had a note in it pertaining to hand tightening the filter and checking it with a torque wench. It non-scientific I know but I found after doing the hand tight thing and putting the torque wrench on it to see when the wrench would click and it was more than 19 FTLB but not much more.
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Those torque values were put there by engineers who created the bike, they are there for a reason. You should always use a torque wrench if you want to maintain your bike properly. I don’t know about you, but I love my bikes, & it just disrespectful to “run it up and bump it with your palm”. Respect your bikes gentlemen and they will never let you down.
I recently bought a digital torque wrench and I am just running around looking for things to torque! As an aside I saw a video where a Ferrari mechanic was torquing down the bleeder screw on a brake caliper. I thought that was a bit much but I guess for the cost of one of those calipers its a good idea.
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Using a torque wrench isn't a bad idea on an oil drain plug.
However, how many DIY'ers have taken the time and effort to have their torque wrenches recalibrated every 6 months like the aircraft industry requires?
Probably "run it up and bump it with your palm" is more accurate than using some old, worn, and abused torque wrench on an oil drain plug.
Tightening something more torque sensitive than a drain plug, such as a spark plug, cylinder head bolt, brake caliper, rotor bolt, etc should require a calibrated torque wrench.
I know I've never had any of my 4 torque wrenches calibrated.
And I've also never torqued an oil drain plug in my life.
However, how many DIY'ers have taken the time and effort to have their torque wrenches recalibrated every 6 months like the aircraft industry requires?
Probably "run it up and bump it with your palm" is more accurate than using some old, worn, and abused torque wrench on an oil drain plug.
Tightening something more torque sensitive than a drain plug, such as a spark plug, cylinder head bolt, brake caliper, rotor bolt, etc should require a calibrated torque wrench.
I know I've never had any of my 4 torque wrenches calibrated.
And I've also never torqued an oil drain plug in my life.
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Harbor Freight digital torque adapter is cheap, like $20, and great for checking torque wrenches for accuracy. I have around 10 torque wrenches, and all 10 checked close to spot on. 1981 Craftsman was still good as day it was made, better than most my newer ones, but all were close enough to still use without worry.
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The 1999 Gold Wing Maintenance manual states: Oil drain bolt 25 ft.lb. Oil filter 7 ft. lb.
The same oil filter fits the GL1500 and GL1800. The mating area is exactly the same. So why the difference in numbers from one manual to another.
I always torque the oil drain bolt and hand install the oil filters. I haven't met anyone yet with a "calibrated wrist". Maybe one day I will meet that person.....!!!!!
Anyone ever heard of drain bolt threads stripped....?? We verify the calibration of our torque wrenches periodically.
Myself and a couple of friends service several GL1500's and GL1800's.
Just make sure you get the old oil filter gasket off the engine. A double gasket will cause serious oil leaks....!
The same oil filter fits the GL1500 and GL1800. The mating area is exactly the same. So why the difference in numbers from one manual to another.
I always torque the oil drain bolt and hand install the oil filters. I haven't met anyone yet with a "calibrated wrist". Maybe one day I will meet that person.....!!!!!
Anyone ever heard of drain bolt threads stripped....?? We verify the calibration of our torque wrenches periodically.
Myself and a couple of friends service several GL1500's and GL1800's.
Just make sure you get the old oil filter gasket off the engine. A double gasket will cause serious oil leaks....!
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My friends and I do.................!!!!!!!!
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It's pretty easy to calibrate a torque wrench, at least close enough for my standards. Lock it in a vise, hang a known weight a known distance from the pivot, do the math.
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