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Eck

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
This was the very first time I ever removed my front wheel bearings to replace them with new ones.


This is how I did it.


With the wheel on my work bench, I inserted "two" round tapered punches to where the tapered end went inside the bearings. The from the other side of the wheel, I inserted "one" tapered chisel between the two tapered ends of the punches. As I drove the chisel into / between the tapered punches, they were being "wedged" on the ID of the bearing. The end of the chisel I had to make sure was in the "center" of the bearing and not hitting the ID of the sleeve between the bearings or wheel, then after a few whacks with the hammer and the bearings came right out. The two punches and chisel were wedged / stuck in the old bearings, so I placed the so called assembly in my vise with the end of the chisel and used another punch to drive one of the tapered punches loose / out and the others fell out. I then removed the sleeve and inserted a punch through the wheel and drove the other bearing out on the other side. This didn't take me 5 minutes to remove the bearings. Worked for me anyway!
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Good choice!
That was going to be my next choice of tool to remove them if my tapered punch and chisel idea failed.


Both ways are basically the same removal method, (building pressure on ID of bearing and tapping them out), but just using different tools. If I would have had one of those bolts that IS what I would have used, but I didn't have one on hand so I had to improvised.
 
There are, of course, tools made specifically for this purpose, but I have to wonder why their prices have shot up so high. I recall paying about $30 or so for the Pit Posse version, which is now up to $60. There's a Motion Pro set that's around the same price now. Yeah, for $60 I'd be tempted to improvise.

The best way to go? Easy. Borrow the special tool set from someone...
 
Personally I use an old 3/8 socket extension and set the wheel on a 2x6 with a hole sawed in it to set the wheel hub into. Tap around the circumference a bit at a time. Auto zone rents a blind hole bearing puller >CLICK ME< for free (you pay for it then bring it back when done for a refund). Knowledge is power. Learned a new method today. Thanks!
 
This was the very first time I ever removed my front wheel bearings to replace them with new ones.


This is how I did it.


With the wheel on my work bench, I inserted "two" round tapered punches to where the tapered end went inside the bearings. The from the other side of the wheel, I inserted "one" tapered chisel between the two tapered ends of the punches. As I drove the chisel into / between the tapered punches, they were being "wedged" on the ID of the bearing. The end of the chisel I had to make sure was in the "center" of the bearing and not hitting the ID of the sleeve between the bearings or wheel, then after a few whacks with the hammer and the bearings came right out. The two punches and chisel were wedged / stuck in the old bearings, so I placed the so called assembly in my vise with the end of the chisel and used another punch to drive one of the tapered punches loose / out and the others fell out. I then removed the sleeve and inserted a punch through the wheel and drove the other bearing out on the other side. This didn't take me 5 minutes to remove the bearings. Worked for me anyway!
I used this method with great success this evening. Thanks for the trick.

I also find that heating the hub with a propane torch makes removal and installation of bearings much easier.



Image
 
Here is what I use.
Ebay Item # 161283411775
$35.00 with Free Shipping
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