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Oil will have no effect oil is never the cause or cure for any mechanical or electrical issues.

If the engine is turning over with no ignition then try this before tearing into it. Rock the bike from side to side - just in case the tip switch is stuck. Unplug the main fuse then plug it back in just in case the ECU is in a lock state. Chances are good this advice did not help but who knows.

Next pull a plug wire and check for spark - use a spare plug for checking. If no spark then you are down to ECU or a wiring issue. If you have spark then it's a fuel issue so could be the fuel pump or again related wiring.

Good luck, I hope it's a simple fix.
 
You need to troubleshoot the bike , it's definetly not synthetic oil related , that's all I run in my 01,
Mine broke down last year .. Bike would turn over but no start, I was on a trip and had nothing to check bike with and had it towed to dealer , they get out there book, first thing they check is kill switch function, second is spark, mine had no spark and no power at fuel pump
Problom turned out to be an electrical issue with a bad connection under the seat to the ECU the fix was easy,hopefully yours is to , Goodluck
 
I may be clueless when it comes to this problem but another free thing to check is to put the bike in gear and try to rock the bike forward to try and get the cam wheel to move. I'd also try a rolling jump start with the ignition on and pop the clutch. You might get lucky and get it started.
 
I'm surprised the tech that stopped at your house to help didn't load test your battery or at least recommend having it load tested. Most automotive stores that sell batteries are happy to load test a battery for free, it's a 5 minute or less job.
 
I know this is several days old, but the symptoms are classic.
You need a new battery.

Cheers
 
I had the same problem about a year ago, and had it fixed under warranty. The problem is a sensor but can't remember exactly what it is called. My problem was intermittent, but Scott at H&W of Palestine said that if it ever went out completely I would be stranded.
 
I'm going to post one last time on this thread just to clarify a few things. When it started, we didn't know whether the engine was cranking or not with the starter. We know different now and the engine was turning the whole time. So my guess at a starter clutch issue brought on by synthetic oil was just that, a guess and yes it is possible and it has happened in the past on this board. So, oil can cause a mechanical issue with a clutch that needs friction to work correctly. That is not the case here, but the issue he was having is most likely the battery, since the battery tested weak. This same symptom can be caused by the crankshaft position sensor going bad, intermittently. Whether it's the sensor connector or the sensor itself is something that has to be tested while its failing to work correctly. The bank angle sensor and the kill switch both will not allow the starter run at all on this bike, it won't even allow the fuel pump relay to turn on to prime the fuel rail pressure. So, hopefully the new battery fixed or fixes this issue, if not, further troubleshooting will need to be done at that point.
 
I will be surprised it it is the battery, sad to say. I have had mine down so low it would stop turning between each compression stroke yet it would start without a problem. The GL1500 had problems with low coil voltage but not the case with the 18. CS sensor does make sense or a bad connection. before I would buy a batter just jump it with your car if it doesn't start you just shaved $100 off your repair bill. Odd are it will not start but there is hope.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
OK, just to clear up a few lose ends, the tech that came bye, did it as a personal favor to try and help me understand the issue, when spoke with him I did not know if the motor was turning or not, I determined that only about 10 minutes before he arrived. He did not have tools , it was not a service call, just a helpful visit. He did suggest the may have been weak early in the day and that after being on he tender all day it now had enough omfh to start the bike.
The battery was load tested the next day and was found to be defective by the tester at the local auto parts store. I did reinstall the battery and everything was fine, ran the bike maybe 50 or 60 miles with a few stops here and there, no problems.
The battery is 3+ years old, so out of an abundance of caution I ordered a new battery, it has arrive but I on the road so it has not been charged or installed yet.

I did try rocking it in gear, no luck.

Yes back around post 22 or 23 I did determine that the starter was engaging enough to turn the motor over, what I have not seen stated in any of the posts, is if the oil is causing the starter clutch problem, does the clutch not engage or does it slip and not turn the motor fast enough to fire it off.

Yes I know the factory guidelines are 8,000 miles between oil changes, I personally think that is way to far for conventional oil, so again out of an abundance of caution, I will target 3K to 4K intervals on oil changes.

Because there is history of the starter clutch being affected by synthetic oil, I decided to switch back to DINO oil, again out of an abundance of caution.

I did check the fuel pump circuit for power, it was good, granted I did unplug and plug in the fuel pump relay before I tested for voltage, maybe it was stuck and I unstick it by unplugging and plugging it in, we will never know, unless the issue returns.

I was working through a trouble shooting plan of fuel pump power (yes/no), is yes then fuel pump flow (yes/no) , if yes then spark check (yes/no) , if yes, not sure , but the service manager showed up and the bike stated before I worked through all the steps.

My hope is the problem was caused by the battery being low and the new battery will fix the problem, if it happens again, I have lots of good troubleshooting ideas.

Again I would like to thank everyone that contributed and offered suggestions, I now know a lot more about my bike than I did a few days ago, and that is a good thing.
I will post any updates should the issue reappear.
 
SURE BEATS WLKIN !! :grin2::grin2:GLAD YOU FOUND PROBLEM
 
I may as well get a new battery for my 2010 as I know it is getting old. Original Yuasa in a 2010 model that was purchased new in 2011 by a previous owner. I have ordered a replacement CPS as the engine code flashes indicated either a faulty sensor or bad wire connection for the sensor.

As a side note, after I "monkeyed" with seeing how difficult it is to get to the sensor and then putting it all back together, it has started normally every time since. But, I never know when or if it will fail to crank each time I hit the starter.
 
OK, just to clear up a few lose ends, the tech that came bye, did it as a personal favor to try and help me understand the issue, when spoke with him I did not know if the motor was turning or not, I determined that only about 10 minutes before he arrived. He did not have tools , it was not a service call, just a helpful visit. He did suggest the may have been weak early in the day and that after being on he tender all day it now had enough omfh to start the bike.
The battery was load tested the next day and was found to be defective by the tester at the local auto parts store. I did reinstall the battery and everything was fine, ran the bike maybe 50 or 60 miles with a few stops here and there, no problems.
The battery is 3+ years old, so out of an abundance of caution I ordered a new battery, it has arrive but I on the road so it has not been charged or installed yet.

I did try rocking it in gear, no luck.

Yes back around post 22 or 23 I did determine that the starter was engaging enough to turn the motor over, what I have not seen stated in any of the posts, is if the oil is causing the starter clutch problem, does the clutch not engage or does it slip and not turn the motor fast enough to fire it off.

Yes I know the factory guidelines are 8,000 miles between oil changes, I personally think that is way to far for conventional oil, so again out of an abundance of caution, I will target 3K to 4K intervals on oil changes.

Because there is history of the starter clutch being affected by synthetic oil, I decided to switch back to DINO oil, again out of an abundance of caution.

I did check the fuel pump circuit for power, it was good, granted I did unplug and plug in the fuel pump relay before I tested for voltage, maybe it was stuck and I unstick it by unplugging and plugging it in, we will never know, unless the issue returns.

I was working through a trouble shooting plan of fuel pump power (yes/no), is yes then fuel pump flow (yes/no) , if yes then spark check (yes/no) , if yes, not sure , but the service manager showed up and the bike stated before I worked through all the steps.

My hope is the problem was caused by the battery being low and the new battery will fix the problem, if it happens again, I have lots of good troubleshooting ideas.

Again I would like to thank everyone that contributed and offered suggestions, I now know a lot more about my bike than I did a few days ago, and that is a good thing.
I will post any updates should the issue reappear.

techdude2000 nailed it in post#4.
He suggested you charge your battery.
I don't know how many posts Ive read on starting problems and 90% of them the battery is at fault.
Batteries fail all the time, just because your battery is 3+ years old doesn't mean its good, heck a 3 month old battery might fail too.
As sensitive as the wing is to battery cranking voltage, I replace my batteries every 3 years and they are on a tender when the bike is home.
Don't get stuck out on the road where your forced to spend $200 for a $75 battery just because they've got ya by the short hairs.
Its called preventative maintenance. It will save your butt a time or two.>:)
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
put the bike in 2nd gear and rock it back and forth with the clutch out and see if it will start after that
Did that , did not work, I am still convinced it was he battery not having enough juice to run all the needed functions to start the bike. Once it started that evening it has been fine, installed new battery Monday, left it off the tender it has been fine. Started it a few times today just to check my sanity, stated every time.

If it happens again I am getting my service manager back to lay hands on it and heal it again. :)
 
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I have an 05 that does this periodically, always when the engine is cold and the outside temp is below 55F. It will miss on the first time and just spin the starter. The second time it will catch and start the engine. I haven't tried to diagnosis the problem because it always catches on the second time of trying. I figure that its because the engine is cold. I have always ran Amsoil full synthetic after the first oil change and the bike has 55,000 miles on it. I don't know if that will help you or not.
 
Perhaps I didn't understand the OP, or make my situation clear. My engine would turn over very fast, but just not start. Sometimes it might take two or three tries, then start. The service manager told me the next time it happened to hold the starter on for ten or twelve seconds to that it would record an error code. Since having the sensor replaced, I've not had a problem.
 
Batteries fail all the time, just because your battery is 3+ years old doesn't mean its good, heck a 3 month old battery might fail too.
Ditto. Battery function should be the FIRST thing checked. I bought a Duralast from Auto Zone for my Lexus and five months later it went bad & would not hold a charge. Got a new one free. Thus far.....

My GREEN cruise light would flicker on my wing. Read all sorts of bad stuff here about it, but it was simply a bad battery. Battery function should be the FIRST thing checked. Picked a new one up at Batteries +. Thus far...

Symptom of spinning starter and no start happens on this bike too.
 
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