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Sounds like he is going have to retrace all the steps he did while changing the filter and make sure all the plugs are tight and no bent pins, pinched wires or wires on the connectors pulled loose.Something happened during the air filter replacement. Jumping back and forth makes troubleshooting harder.
I learned that during my years trouble shooting electronics circuits.
Almost like trying to figure out where the extra screws go when you take something apart..
 

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It bothers me that in post #205 the bank angle sensor has been bypassed.

Has the bike ever ran since this was done? If not, was this done in a way that has been proven to work on this model bike?

The reason I bring this up is because some ECMs look for very specific resistance values to turn on. My son wanted to delete his ignition switch on his sportster and just use a toggle switch to short the wires. Didn’t work. After a bunch of digging it turns out Harley built in specific resistance values in the ignition switch… 200 ohms and the ECM turned on to accessory mode. 800 ohms and the ECM turned on run mode. Values aren’t correct but that is the concept. This was their security technique to prevent old school hot wiring. The ECM was programmed to look for very specific resistance values. We added the correct resistors in and the toggle switch worked perfect.

I’m wondering if the bank angle sensor is a similar situation. Just shorting it out might not do the trick.

I can’t help but think the ECM is missing an input and doesn’t know it in the run mode. Otherwise it would throw FI codes,
 

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I don't want to step on any toes here, and bless everyone's hearts for trying to help out but, sometimes.....you know the saying about too many chefs... Just maybe the waters get muddied by all the multiple duplicate questions. Just wondering if maybe a fix would come quicker if just one guy was working on this.....And who better than Techdude? Again, I'm just throwing this out.......
 

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Hi,
I have to confess to you I didn’t bypass the angle bank sensor. I’d checked the voltage with key on.
But, does that rule out the sensor being faulty??
Guess I've been hung up on the bank angle sensor from the beginning since when I forgot to plug mine in it gave the crank no start condition.
Sorry, B Bob.
 

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Couldn't agree more. We have a lot of smart people here and I understand the need to throw your two cents in and that you very well may have the answer. But having watched techdude trouble shoot his way through these problems I think he would get to the bottom of this if others weren't interrupting. Not that someone else might not get to the answer but techdude methodical step by step is the best bet with a problem like this.

I don't want to step on any toes here, and bless everyone's hearts for trying to help out but, sometimes.....you know the saying about too many chefs... Just maybe the waters get muddied by all the multiple duplicate questions. Just wondering if maybe a fix would come quicker if just one guy was working on this.....And who better than Techdude? Again, I'm just throwing this out.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #254 ·
Hi, Techdude Good morning
The meter panel connector had never been plugged in to the terminal during we investigation. I don’t know if it were relatively with FI light. I remembered there’s no FI light on when I put everything back on first time after air filter changed.
 

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Hi, Techdude Good morning
The meter panel connector had never been plugged in to the terminal during we investigation. I don’t know if it were relatively with FI light. I remembered there’s no FI light on when I put everything back on first time after air filter changed.
Are you talking about the little 6 pin connector just in front and under the key switch? If so, it has no effect on the FI light or starting.
Without reading through all 13 pages of this thread can someone summarize easily why we believe the bike has fuel pressure?
To summarize: It has no fuel pressure because it won’t run the fuel pump. The ECM is failing to turn on and do its initial sensor test and run the fuel pump to prime the rails. It doesn’t turn on the FI light and it won’t flash it either. The ECM is getting good power from the FI/Ignition relay when the key is turned on, confirming the bank angle sensor and the kill switch are both working and confirming that C25 is good with no meltdown/connection issues. The ECM has good grounds. The VCC power that comes out of the ECM to run the baro, map, and tps sensor is not there, and the ECM has been replaced with a new one. I don’t mind the ideas at this point, because I’m out of them. I’ve never seen this set of symptoms and without the bike in my hands, I’m at a loss as to what else to look at.
 

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Are you talking about the little 6 pin connector just in front and under the key switch? If so, it has no effect on the FI light or starting.

To summarize: It has no fuel pressure because it won’t run the fuel pump. The ECM is failing to turn on and do its initial sensor test and run the fuel pump to prime the rails. It doesn’t turn on the FI light and it won’t flash it either. The ECM is getting good power from the FI/Ignition relay when the key is turned on, confirming the bank angle sensor and the kill switch are both working and confirming that C25 is good with no meltdown/connection issues. The ECM has good grounds. The VCC power that comes out of the ECM to run the baro, map, and tps sensor is not there, and the ECM has been replaced with a new one. I don’t mind the ideas at this point, because I’m out of them. I’ve never seen this set of symptoms and without the bike in my hands, I’m at a loss as to what else to look at.
@techdude2000
Admittedly, I know nothing about what you’re diagnosing here. But I saw this wire in one of the pics. Mean anything?

Motor vehicle Hood Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Gas
 
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