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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I broke my GW out of winter storage I encountered the aforementioned Fault Indication. FI? F1 "fuel injection" Fourmula 1...oh fault indication I read later... duh..

So to the best of my knowledge, my bike is not displaying any signs of VSS malfunction. Nevertheless an OEM unit popped up on eBay and here I am with leisure time on a national holiday. Time to kill this fault indicator. For us Newbs: What are All the possible faults:

speed malfunction? how?
cruise fault ..hmmmm....how. Mine very recent pops out of operation seemingly without a touch to the controls..cool this may be a symptom??
What else?

This 2010 thread got me started:


The muffler protector removal process is not well documented in my Clymers. Under the forward shroud is a bolt that releases the panel to slide forward when the other three fasteners are loosed. A stout tug downward at the center pops the fiber washers off intact...

Clymers' procedure includes removal of the upper shroud driving me to reach for a box cutter and threats to slice my own wrists. What a hassle! indeed it will get easier the more get familiarized with this spectacular $4300 find.

The above post highlights that by releasing the rear brake reservoir and popping the right air vent the wiring harness and protective pouch will be serviceable without a flow of blood.....

Bonus find- my rear reservoir was 100% dry.."oops" time to inspect that sub-system. no apparent leaks and great braking....I'll mighty vac the remaining fluid and verify the thickness of the linings.
 

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Until you extract the code (s) for the Fault Indicator you are just guessing at the possible cause.
Since it came on after getting it out after storage, it may be simply a low battery voltage situation but the possibilities are many.
Extract the code. Clear the fault and see if it is recurrent and needs diagnosed.
 
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Until you extract the code (s) for the Fault Indicator you are just guessing at the possible cause.
Since it came on after getting it out after storage, it may be simply a low battery voltage situation but the possibilities are many.
Extract the code. Clear the fault and see if it is recurrent and needs diagnosed.
Good suggestion, and helpful hint...........Cause that's what happened to me a few years ago (I actually forgot about it, till you mentioned it again
 

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I suggest you search the forum and find the F1 procedure for code retrieval before committing to spending money and/or replacing parts.

Long time storage could be just a bad ground connection, low battery, etc.
 

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Here's the procedure and what the codes mean:


If the FI (PGM-FI or Programmed Fuel Injection) MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code.

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms .Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):


0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector


16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor


29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks all for the quick replies. There's still data I lack, I'm familiar with the data I was provided.

Ok, so if over the winter my voltage dropped, tripping a code, why this one? and why, when the bike was put in service didn't the code clear? And why when replaced didn't it clear? Maybe there's a fault somewhere else in the wiring harness....something pinched from an overwinter removal of the shelter to service the CB radio harness? (I'm fishing here obviously).

Is there a manual "clear code" process? I don't believe there is.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Thanks all for the quick replies. There's still data I lack, I'm familiar with the data I was provided.

Ok, so if over the winter my voltage dropped, tripping a code, why this one? and why, when the bike was put in service didn't the code clear? And why when replaced didn't it clear? Maybe there's a fault somewhere else in the wiring harness....something pinched from an overwinter removal of the shelter to service the CB radio harness? (I'm fishing here obviously).

Is there a manual "clear code" process? I don't believe there is.
What code did you retrieve? Low voltage won’t trigger a code, but could make a lot of stuff act crazy. The speed sensor code will go away on its own after the sensor is replaced. If you are still getting that code, you have an issue somewhere else. I would recheck your code to verify the count.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
With respect techdude, page 40 of the August 2002 revision of the Honda Service Manual .pdf FREE (manualslib.com)- it details a memory reset procedure for 2001 to 2003 models. That's me.... Tomorrow I hope to prove it out...VSS is code #11. I replaced the sensor on independence day as detailed in the attached Youtube post...no joy. Code persisted, but only because I hadn't referenced the definitive OEM service manual. 01-03 do not self-reset according to Honda, so that's my big message to Nuuuubs out there like me! This bike is so so much fun, season 2, big grin!
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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With respect techdude, page 40 of the Honda Service Manual details a memory reset procedure for 2001 to 2003 models. Tomorrow I hope to prove it out...VSS is code #11. I replaced the sensor on independence day as detailed in the attached Youtube post...no joy. Code persisted, but only because I hadn't referenced the definitive OEM service manual. 01-03 do not self-reset according to Honda, so that's my big message to Nuuuubs out there like me! This bike is so so much fun, season 2, big grin!
Yes, and the later version of the manual for 01-05 also details the memory reset. Hopefully, your code goes away with the reset. On the 1800s that I have changed the sensor, the active code went away on its own, but the old code stayed in memory. Let us know if the code stays gone after the memory reset.👍🏻 Was your speedometer acting up prior to the code being thrown?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
techdude2000 et al: So the memory reset process detailed in the OEM Honda service manual did indeed clear the code and shut off the FI. Unfortunately on the next power cycle with the test harness re-connected the FI comes on and stays on. Further down in the specifics of code 11 for the VSS it details a throttle test where you run the engine continuously at about 2100 rpm then lower the side stand....or maybe it's all with the stand down. Heck, I even took it off the center stand to make sure it wasn't tied to a lean sensor?? Additionally, I am unable to get the lamp to blink at me, not sure what to make of that noise.

Super annoying that everything seems happy but the FI /MIL lamp remains illuminated. If I followed what Techdude was attempting to relate, I believe my bike did the same as his??

I took some videos I may post later, but for now, sign me

Discouraged.
 

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techdude2000 et al: So the memory reset process detailed in the OEM Honda service manual did indeed clear the code and shut off the FI. Unfortunately on the next power cycle with the test harness re-connected the FI comes on and stays on. Further down in the specifics of code 11 for the VSS it details a throttle test where you run the engine continuously at about 2100 rpm then lower the side stand....or maybe it's all with the stand down. Heck, I even took it off the center stand to make sure it wasn't tied to a lean sensor?? Additionally, I am unable to get the lamp to blink at me, not sure what to make of that noise.

Super annoying that everything seems happy but the FI /MIL lamp remains illuminated. If I followed what Techdude was attempting to relate, I believe my bike did the same as his??

I took some videos I may post later, but for now, sign me

Discouraged.
A few questions. Does the cruise control work correctly? Does the Speedo work correctly? If you put it on the sidestand, in neutral, and let it idle, does it flash the same 11 code? Are you sure it’s an 11, one long flash and one short flash and then repeats?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Admittedly, after the number of redos, I have done at this stage I question everything, right? But here are my replies:

Before the replacement, only the cruise seemed to be a bit out of sorts, ie: I could breathe on the button and disengage it. Not something I identified as a fault mind you... Speedo, nothing noticeable.

Side stand at idle: I get a solid ie constant FI, no blinks. (BTW any reason it can't be on the center stand with side stand extended? In attempt 67 I dropped it off the center stand thinking maybe it needed to lean?...

Its been a month, but yes Im 99.9% confident I saw code 11.
It hasn't been back on the road as I'm midway through flushing the brake lines (another doozy!) But with that done I'll put a few miles on it and report back.

The idea that I can't regenerate the fault code now is a puzzler. Maybe I'm stuck with a permanently illuminated FI???
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Admittedly, after the number of redos, I have done at this stage I question everything, right? But here are my replies:

Before the replacement, only the cruise seemed to be a bit out of sorts, ie: I could breathe on the button and disengage it. Not something I identified as a fault mind you... Speedo, nothing noticeable.

Side stand at idle: I get a solid ie constant FI, no blinks. (BTW any reason it can't be on the center stand with side stand extended? In attempt 67 I dropped it off the center stand thinking maybe it needed to lean?...

Its been a month, but yes Im 99.9% confident I saw code 11.
It hasn't been back on the road as I'm midway through flushing the brake lines (another doozy!) But with that done I'll put a few miles on it and report back.

The idea that I can't regenerate the fault code now is a puzzler. Maybe I'm stuck with a permanently illuminated FI???
If it won’t flash the code with it idling on the side stand in neutral, you may have to take it to a Honda dealer and let them pull the code with their tool. The cruise control symptom you described sounds like a common issue with the cancel switches on the brake and clutch levers becoming sensitive from dirty contacts and/or worn pivot pins and bushings. To answer your question, it will flash the code on the center stand with the sidestand extended as long as it’s in neutral and idling. It doesn’t know it’s on the centerstand, but it does know if the sidestand is down or not. Here is what the manual says about a non flashing light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ihave yet to venture into a Honda Dealer to discover the cost of clearing my code. Cruise is still touchy., so ZERO gained, I didn't have a noticeable performance glitch I followed the trail and wasted a ton on time. I hate these persistent dash lights..."CHECK ENGINE" OK I checked!
 
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