[Kaylee Tambourne]

Hello, we can see the right-side {when sitting in saddle} one behind a large hose, but how on earth do we get a wrench on it? Do we need to take off the Shelter or whatever it is called and reach it from the top down some way?We thought we would ask before taking all that plastic or fiberglass off. No video to guide us,that we could find.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

Do you have ABS ???

 

[Kaylee Tambourne]

Do you have ABS ???

Yes.

 

[Bullet Bob]

Hello, we can see the right-side {when sitting in saddle} one behind a large hose, but how on earth do we get a wrench on it? Do we need to take off the Shelter or whatever it is called and reach it from the top down some way?We thought we would ask before taking all that plastic or fiberglass off. No video to guide us,that we could find.

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/angelrid...iate&cjevent=1e721241f27111e98304007e0a24060b

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

Yes.

This info is free.

I find it easiest to remove the 2 screws on the underside of the cowl that help secure the front center cowl (part #3). Then pull the lower part of the center cowl loose. Next remove the inner right cowl (part #14). That then frees up movement in the radiator hoses for better access to the tensioner.

https://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053ec8af870021c54be4352/cowl

Why do you need access to the tensioner ??? If to remove the center cap bolt for a valve adjustment. Use a 5/16" wrench to break that center cap bolt loose. A 5/16" is tighter fitting than a 8mm, and will provide less chance of the bolt head rounding. When loosening, be sure to use a "snapping" method when loosing that bolt.

 

[Kaylee Tambourne]

@Bullet Bob:
>> No video to guide us,that we could find.

That should have been "No FREE video to guide us, that we could find." :wink2:

 

[Kaylee Tambourne]

This info is free.

I find it easiest to remove the 2 screws on the underside of the cowl that help secure the front

Thank you we did not think to look in that region, we were on hands and knees on the floor. We plan on doing a valve clearance check (new GL to us) and want to have parts, tools and instructions on hand before starting. Currently making the DIY tensioner we found here. We might be able to make a few {depends on available materials} to give away here as thanks for this help.

 

[Fred H.]

Greg's advice above is also what I do. Getting the plastic panels out of the way so you can manipulate the coolant hose out of your way is a must. Though I have always been able to get the cap bolt loose with a good quality 8mm box end wrench, but it can take some force to break it loose. Getting that cap bolt threaded BACK in after you're done can be even more fun. I like to put a dab of silicone gasket sealer on the washer and glue it to the bolt so it doesn't fall off when I'm reinstalling it.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

Thank you we did not think to look in that region, we were on hands and knees on the floor. We plan on doing a valve clearance check (new GL to us) and want to have parts, tools and instructions on hand before starting. Currently making the DIY tensioner we found here. We might be able to make a few {depends on available materials} to give away here as thanks for this help.

If you find that you need Honda's tool to adjust the valves, here is the part # Tensioner holder A 07ZMG-MCAA300.

FYI ... all tools come out of California, and are shipped by ground ... if ordered, allow for shipping time.

 

[Kaylee Tambourne]

Thank you. A cynical person might think there is a conspiracy with only Honda labels and no actual images, then $90+Shipping each. But we have found some images from a UK supplier and will attempt to machine some up. Has anyone ever started a buddy-tool-transfer system? We had that on another Honda-CB forum of many years back. Honor system to mail a tool on to the next guy/gal. If anyone has one and gives us the dimensions we have the machines to make some. It looks like the one with the stick is pretty much the same as the one without. A bit cheeky selling two.


I assume you engage the screwdriver-blade and pull the cord then rotate the knob so the blades drop into the slots to hold it there. When the work is completed, lift it up to disengage the blades and the thing re-tensions by itself. Is that how they work? The Service manual is a little cryptic.