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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Changing the final drive on my '07, installing a 2010. My understanding is they are a perfect interchange right?

Second, when I removed the final drive and look inside the swing arm I see the shaft to the motor hanging below center. Normal?

I stabbed the shaft from the new final into it and everything slid up easily by hand. I'm just a nervous nelly and want to ask.
 

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Give the rear wheel (or differential) a spin by hand and you will tell right away if it is in place properly. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, everything back together smoothly, no extra parts, test run on the center stand. Off for a test ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Operation check good. No backlash from final drive and throttle transitions are silky smooth again. I can't think of a better way to spend $100.00 and a few hours every 70K miles. Oh, and the final came with new brakes and rotor.
 

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Operation check good. No backlash from final drive and throttle transitions are silky smooth again. I can't think of a better way to spend $100.00 and a few hours every 70K miles. Oh, and the final came with new brakes and rotor.
Glad to hear it went well. I may need help the day I need to change out my final drive. So far so good, but I've got a spare in the attic in anticipation
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Glad to hear it went well. I may need help the day I need to change out my final drive. So far so good, but I've got a spare in the attic in anticipation
Turned out to be an easy job. I just worry too much sometimes.
 

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Did you have to remove the right muffler or other things to get to the top inside bolt? I was gonna take mine off and grease the splines while I was in there changing a tire and changing rear end fluid, but both my 17mm wrenches were up against the inner liner...there was no room to loosen the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you have to remove the right muffler or other things to get to the top inside bolt? I was gonna take mine off and grease the splines while I was in there changing a tire and changing rear end fluid, but both my 17mm wrenches were up against the inner liner...there was no room to loosen the nut.
I removed the muffler per the manual sort of. All I did to remove it was loosen the clamp (two allen head bolts) and remove the hanger bolt under the saddle bag. It slid right off. Lining up the tabs on the chrome muffler cover with the brackets on the forward chrome pipe cover putting it back on took a little dance but not too bad.

Nut removal was a bit of work. I used a 17mm combination wrench, box end, with a 19mm combination wrench as a cheater. The nut on the saddle bag side I used a wratcheting box end on. There is not much room for wrench movement on that nut at all.

Torquing the nuts back was a compromise. I was able to torque two of them with a crow's foot at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench which effectively requires no torque calculation for the crow's foot. The other two I could not get the crows foot onto at the spot where torque was applied so I just pulled them "good and tight" with a box end wrench using another wrench as a cheater. The torque called for in the manual is 65 foot pounds.

I did not remove the brake hose brackets from the final drive as the manual says. I unbolted the caliper then was able to slip the hoses from the two brackets. If you have ABS you have to remove the sensor from the final drive before taking it out.

Other than removing the rear wheel that is it. Hope this helps.
 
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