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I have a 2007 Goldwing that I purchased new, it has always had a ping under power, dealer says that there is nothing wrong with it. I have tried all different types of fuel, octane etc. tried shifting at higher RPM. The motor runs good and seems to have plenty of power. This happens mostley in 3, 4th and 5th gear even at 3000 RPM and up, open the throttle to much and it pings. I am using Amsoil full synthetic 10/40 and have from the time it was new, not that it should make difference. Any suggestions on what I could do.
 

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I have a 2007 Goldwing that I purchased new, it has always had a ping under power, dealer says that there is nothing wrong with it. I have tried all different types of fuel, octane etc. tried shifting at higher RPM. The motor runs good and seems to have plenty of power. This happens mostley in 3, 4th and 5th gear even at 3000 RPM and up, open the throttle to much and it pings. I am using Amsoil full synthetic 10/40 and have from the time it was new, not that it should make difference. Any suggestions on what I could do.
What grade and brand of fuel do you use?

Have you tried others?
 

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I have noticed my 02 has been pinging here lately too. On a trip to North west TN this weekend back to Huntsville, Al., I used nothing but the highest octane I could find at the pumps and it still pings. I almost stopped at auto zone and bought a bottle of octane booster to see if that would help but I did not do this.

I'm interested in all sound replies to this thread. :thumbup:
 

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Sounds like a hot spot maybe a head gasket sticking in to the cylinder or maybe a bad plug. Pull the plugs and use a magnifying glass to look for little black specs (little black balls on the electrode) as they will always show up. (aka) killer dots. If you find these show them to the dealer and or try one set colder plugs and if it continues you have a sharp spot in the combustion chamber that is to hot. Im betting a new set of plugs will do the trick after all it is a Honda. P.S the little black specs will always be there with spark knock and it should be one bad cylinder if its all them I would say bad ecm reading with the tune or ecm tell them to fix it and you need an extended warranty to cover all the abuse the engine has received. Excuse the spelling but I got mad this is a engine killer and should of been checked right off.
 

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Excessive carbon on the piston crowns and head will case this as well as a defective Baro sensor. If it's not carboned up, then the baro sensor can be reading the wrong altitude and still be in the normal operating range so you don't get an FI light. It causes the engine to run leaner than it should. I would pull the plugs and take a scope and look at the cylinders top end. Have you pulled the plugs and checked them for a lean running condition? You may need to put in some seafoam and run the crap out of it on the highway to blow the carbon out if it's bad.
 

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Excessive carbon on the piston crowns and head will case this as well as a defective Baro sensor. If it's not carboned up, then the baro sensor can be reading the wrong altitude and still be in the normal operating range so you don't get an FI light. It causes the engine to run leaner than it should. I would pull the plugs and take a scope and look at the cylinders top end. Have you pulled the plugs and checked them for a lean running condition? You may need to put in some seafoam and run the crap out of it on the highway to blow the carbon out if it's bad.
Techdude , How much Seafoam do you recommend for this ? How many miles should Seafoam be used before oil is changed ? Thanks Steve
 

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Techdude , How much Seafoam do you recommend for this ? How many miles should Seafoam be used before oil is changed ? Thanks Steve
Put about 2 oz per gallon of gas and run at least 2 tanks through it reving it to near redline a couple of times after you warm it up good. I like to take it out on the highway and leave it in third gear to get the RPMs up and make it work hard for a couple of miles. I like to rev it good and then shutdown the throttle and let the vacuum shoot up to loosen the carbon. Just don't get a ticket! I would not change the oil early, run it for at least 500 miles first. If it works, you will see some black crap coming out of the pipes.
 

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O2 sensors as well

The O2 sensors are carbon up as well. Inspect them. If black, you need to "try" and clean them. If gray/black it might by OK. But bad O2 sensors will really foul up the works.

...gene
 

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Seems like my 1800 used to ping real bad in the summer time. Until I changed my spark plugs, all my original plugs were gaped WAY to big.............After that it went away.

Hope you can sort yours out

Mike
 

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hogintow, I was unaware of the little black specks on plugs of offending cylinders; neat.

To the OP and others; switching to high octane fuel as a cure is counter productive. It is OK as a diagnostic sort of trick, but in the long run it will only make the carbon build-up worse and ping will return. I agree that the dealership should have checked this out thoroughly.

Techdude, it seems as if some sensor failures cause some vehicles to use default parameters when a sensor like the BARO or O2 fails. Is the GL18 like that? If so, could unplugging the offending sensor result in loss of the symptom as a means of tracking down the source with a code is not thrown?

prs
 

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hogintow, I was unaware of the little black specks on plugs of offending cylinders; neat.

To the OP and others; switching to high octane fuel as a cure is counter productive. It is OK as a diagnostic sort of trick, but in the long run it will only make the carbon build-up worse and ping will return. I agree that the dealership should have checked this out thoroughly.

Techdude, it seems as if some sensor failures cause some vehicles to use default parameters when a sensor like the BARO or O2 fails. Is the GL18 like that? If so, could unplugging the offending sensor result in loss of the symptom as a means of tracking down the source with a code is not thrown?

prs
The wing will revert to preset values if the sensor goes out of the normal operating range for what the ECM expects from it. If this happens, it will throw the code for the sensor and drop out of closed loop mode. The baro sensor can operate in the expected range, but not be correct for the given altitude and pressure and this can cause a rich condition as well as a lean condition depending on where the bike is and which way the sensor drifts. Unplugging the baro sensor will cause the ECM to revert to the preset values, but it will also cause the ECM to go into open loop mode which can change everything. You can check the baro sensor's signal line voltage at sea level, it should be very close to 3V.
 

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Redline your wing once every ride in whatever gear you are comfortable with. Shakes loose the carbon. Too much carbon on the piston surface can cause ping. Even though you say it was from new, do it anyway.
 
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