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Well it finally gave out completely. No start with code 19. It had been showing signs for months. I have been reading everything i could find on changing it. Specifically locaction of the plug on it. It was actually much easier than air filter element. Take off lower front cowl and the one right above it and front engine cover. Plug is red two wire in bundle at top right side of front cover. Hope this can help someone else. Probably an hour job if you take your time.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Well it finally gave out completely. No start with code 19. It had been showing signs for months. I have been reading everything i could find on changing it. Specifically locaction of the plug on it. It was actually much easier than air filter element. Take off lower front cowl and the one right above it and front engine cover. Plug is red two wire in bundle at top right side of front cover. Hope this can help someone else. Probably an hour job if you take your time.
Glad you got it changed, it would have sucked to be stranded somewhere with it. :grin2:
 

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IronMan
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well it finally gave out completely. No start with code 19. It had been showing signs for months. I have been reading everything i could find on changing it. Specifically locaction of the plug on it. It was actually much easier than air filter element. Take off lower front cowl and the one right above it and front engine cover. Plug is red two wire in bundle at top right side of front cover. Hope this can help someone else. Probably an hour job if you take your time.
how many miles on your bike mine is abs so would be harder job ???? What were signs of it going bad ?
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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how many miles on your bike mine is abs so would be harder job ???? What were signs of it going bad ?
Much harder to change on ABS wing, ABS motors are in the way. Intermittent and unexpected no start without warning...motor just spins with no fire or fuel.
 

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Mine died today, as evidenced by the engine light code of 1 long and 9 short ones, but it's a little Easter Miracle that it happened in the garage before a long ride to dinner. (Thank You)
2013 F6B coming up on 23,000 miles.

I have ordered the two parts and removed the plastic cowls yet still have questions:
A. Looks like I need to unplug the connection next. Would it be wise to unbolt what looks like a coil assy in front of the connector first?
B. How the heck does the timing cover come off? I took the 12 bolts off but she's tight...what next? Use a pry bar and a rubber hammer?
B. And...should I put an oil drain pan underneath before I pound and pry?

Thanks for the tips so far!
JT
 

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Careful prying. If you nick that cover at all the gasket won't seal. Scraping the sealer and gasket off is tedious also.
Should come off pulling on the lower right and left hand corners. You can carefully pry under those corners if you just push against the very lower corners. Wood stick or nothing metal would be safer.

Put a paper towel or rag under the cover cavity to catch a little oil that comes out. Once cover is off soak up the oil the best you can to try and keep it back in the engine and not come forward and mess up the surfaces. As you will see the lowest spot is on the LEFT side of bike and oil will want to keep coming to that spot. I put a board under my front wheel to elevate and that seemed to help.

I have non ABS so my connector was easy to unplug. With ABS you supposedly have to take most of the top off so good luck with that.

Under warranty local dealer had replaced mine and had been leaking for a few months before i noticed and out of warranty by then and would have been a big hassle with this dealer.

I ended up putting Hondabond 4 very thin with my fingers on the engine and cover and then installed the gasket in between and tightened by feel as Fred H. had suggested. Hondabond is excellent.
I used a 1/4" ratchet.
I know i don't have as much as 9ft lbs now, but it doesn't leak.

Thanks @Fred H. and @GoldWingrGreg for taking the time to answer my PM's.

Maybe they will have some more suggestions for you.
 

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Vendor
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A. Looks like I need to unplug the connection next. Would it be wise to unbolt what looks like a coil assy in front of the connector first?
B. How the heck does the timing cover come off? I took the 12 bolts off but she's tight...what next? Use a pry bar and a rubber hammer?


Thanks for the tips so far!
JT
A. Every harness routes a little different from Wing to Wing. So you will have to answer your own question by trying to unplug the sensor first. Fortunately, if you find the need to remove the coil assembly, it is very easy. Unplug the 3 coils, and then remove the bolt that holds the small stay for the purge control valve. Remove the 2 bracket bolts that hold the coils' stay on either side. Then pull it free and allow it the hang.

B. How the heck does the timing cover come off? I took the 12 bolts off but she's tight...what next? Use a pry bar and a rubber hammer?

Yes to both; however, your pry point is on the bottom under side of the timing cover. You will feel a lip all across the bottom. Put a 2x4 up against the trans cover and pry with something. Depending on the age of the gasket, sometimes they don't like to come off.

B. And...should I put an oil drain pan underneath before I pound and pry? You can, although I wouldn't. At most maybe a rag. The most you might get is 2 drops of oil.
 
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