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Discussion Starter #1
As careful as I tried to be in torquing down my right side Cylinder Head Cover, I now have a hairline crack beneath the rear most bolt attaching to the cover. Thinking this is my own fault. Of course the cover now leaks oil as one would imagine accordingly. Two Questions 1. Anyone have a recommended reliable parts source that I could contact for the replacement cover, gaskets and associated required parts etc? Guessing this is a $450 plus minus package of parts anyway.........2. Anyone do this themselves or would this be best to take to a certified Honda tech to replace? I am fairly mechanical but will appreciate a seasoned Gold Wing owner opinion on this one?

Pic attached wherein crack occurred. I love the bike but like all of us, there are many items we must all do to upgrade the standard machine to our personal liking. Thanks all....
 

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Love The DCT
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Babbits lists $369.10 for the cover and $15.92 for the cover gasket. I assumed you used a torque wrench? An owner should be capable of replacing the cover and gasket.

:doorag:
 

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IronMan
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when you put bolts in and tighten down do you do middle one first and "don't" tighten it all the way ?? alternate others till tight then torque >
 

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Just guessing here, but couldn't the crack be welded from th inside and just get a new gasket maybe?
 
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Yes sir on the torque wrench....middle bolt first...gently..carefully back and forth the other two...

2.5 foot lbs...

This occurred when removing Rivco Highway Peg’s mounting plate (the Rivcos which did not work for me).....that set up requires alternate bolts in the cover...I actually think the crack may have occurred when REMOVING those bolts..but who knows.....I tried to be real careful about the whole thing...

Thanks for the info...
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Just guessing here, but couldn't the crack be welded from th inside and just get a new gasket maybe?
Pooch, you may be correct...that cover seems aluminum to me....have not considered that...assumed a new cover the best route to go..but you may have a good point..

Thank you for your suggestion....
 

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IronMan
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pooch, you may be correct...that cover seems aluminum to me....have not considered that...assumed a new cover the best route to go..but you may have a good point..

Thank you for your suggestion....
would try weld or the like and see if that works until maybe you can find used cover in the future , good luck
 
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There is a reason it cracked there. Are the valve cover seals installed correctly ???
 

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How about JB weld on that crack?
Just wondering if you've ever had success using that to preeminently repair a crack for a cover on an internal combustion engine ??? The swing in temperature can easily be 160+ degrees. Not to mention that it will need to with-stand torquing as it is being installed.
 

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Other than stripping the threads because the shoulder on the bolt stops the bolt, I agree with Greg, I can't see how you could torque it enough to crack the cover unless the seal was not in place or maybe the washer under the bolt is cocked or jammed in there and somehow not seating. This cover is really easily to install, and you need very little force to seat it as soon as the bolt stops you are done. It is really just a hand tight process requiring little force and no big ratchets. I'd take it off and try and see what happened.

-Jim
 

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Just wondering if you've ever had success using that to preeminently repair a crack for a cover on an internal combustion engine ??? The swing in temperature can easily be 160+ degrees. Not to mention that it will need to with-stand torquing as it is being installed.
No I haven't Greg. I don't want to find out either.:grin2:
 

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That sounds like it would be easier to do inch pounds. Or do I not know what I am talking about? Don't be bashful, I really am not sure.
 
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That sounds like it would be easier to do inch pounds. Or do I not know what I am talking about? Don't be bashful, I really am not sure.
Actually, you bring up a god point. The OP did reference a 2.5 ft/lb torque. That does indicate that he is using a ft/lb torque wrench. Most ft/lb torque wenches have a range of something like 10-80ft/lbs, or 0-80ft/lbs. In either case, 2.5 is at the lower end of the scale, and if using a click type torque wrench, a user may not even feel the click. Thus over torquing is likely.

Most bolts with light torque, such as ones for a valve cover should be torqued with a in/lb torque wrench. Many of those range from 36-240in/lbs. With a required torque at 84in/lbs, he be more in mid-range and the chance of over torquing would be much less.
 
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Yes sir on the torque wrench....middle bolt first...gently..carefully back and forth the other two...

2.5 foot lbs....
While I have not seen every tool in the world, I have not seen a torque wrench that goes down to 2.5 foot pounds. I guess I am more educated now.


Torque wrenches are useless with that low of torque value.


Nah. Totally disagree.

Usually a torque wrench measuring inch pounds is used.



Echo?




That sounds like it would be easier to do inch pounds. Or do I not know what I am talking about? Don't be bashful, I really am not sure.
Bingo. Use an inch pound wrench. 2.5 foot pounds = 30 inch pounds.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

And not forgetting for those really big jobs the Yardpound wrenches. :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
There is a reason it cracked there. Are the valve cover seals installed correctly ???
Made sure the “Copper Colored side” of each of those washers was facing out...just like they came from the factory..

Decided to order a new right side OEM cover and gasket from Babbitts.

Again, regardless of wrench used, It did not seem to me like I over tightened those bolts and I have done it before the same way with no problems but obviously I did it wrong or I would not have the issue. Lesson learned and an expensive one....parts from Babbits were $425 delivered....my bad..but no one lost an eye or a leg so fix it and down the road I go. Appreciate the feedback from all, thank you.
 

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Really don't think I would ever use a torque wrench, of any discrimination, for 2.5 ft/lbs, 30inch/lbs.
 

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A good torque whench can easily do 2.5ft/lb. I have a snap on that ranges 1-20ft/lb. Of course it's digital, so you can read in ft/lb, in/lb or nm ect. Another option is a torque screwdriver. Several options from around 5-40 in/lb or thereabouts.
 
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