i think when i replaced the battery had to either ride or restart a couple times. I think when it happen I was going to do the same thing going to a dealer then it was gone....I think
This is exactly what seems to be happening on a couple goldwings. The audio unit powers up the moment the center column knob is twisted. Then a second or 2 later the red start button is pressed to start the bike. Seems that when the battery is weak and pulls the full amps to try to start that’s when the Audio Units are having trouble with low voltage or over amperage. The internal protection circuit for the audio unit isn’t doing what it’s designed to do in some cases. If there was an on/off power button for the audio unit I wonder if this would be safer when starting and then can turn the audio unit on after the bike is running. There was a guy on FB maybe 6 months ago that said his dealer recommended that the audio fuse be pulled when trying to jump start a bike. Makes you think if the dealer already knows something going on with the Audio Units being damaged from dead,weak, failing batteries. Even with a digital meter like a lot of us have added to our bikes to show battery voltage, it can read 12.5+ volts at rest but a dead cell in the battery isn’t gonna rear it’s head until starting the bike which a dead cell can drop to as low as 9 volts.A co-worker of mine, has a Challenger. Talks going around to warn owners of such issue. That's very interesting and expensive. It will end up where we will need to replace the battery the way you replace an air filter or plugs. I am assuming that low voltage/higher AMPS fries the module, in some cases? No internal protection.
Check the fuse with an ohm meter, don't just do a visual inspection of it.I did check #25 and it is fine. I took the battery in and the load test come back as a bad battery. I put the new battery in, and still have the same codes and no screen.
Looks like it’s a trip to the dealer. Bad thing is I’m 1500 miles from my home dealer. Glad I bought the extended warranty!
I've considered that, but my suspicion is that even with a smaller fuse, it probably wouldn't act fast enough to prevent the thermal runaway event that is burning up components in the audio unit. I think once the fuse has blown, the damage is already done.First off I’ll admit I haven’t been following these threads real close or reread them. But if these audio units are blowing the fuse at the same time they go bad, maybe a lesser amperage fuse might help. That’s if it will still operate with the lesser fuse. Just thinking out loud. Fuses are cheap in comparison.
Fred,By the way, I meant to ask the OP, do you have a CB installed on your bike?
Good point. I'd check ACC Fuse #1 too while you're in there.My dct did the same thing. It ended up being one of the 2 fuses that are exposed right next to where the panel snaps into the lower rubber grommet. The owners manual calls them Ignition main fuse and ACC main fuse. The fuses were good but the connection was all green and corroded. Not covered under warranty. Maybe this helps someone else. I ride alot in bad weather winter or summer. These are just below the main fuse panel.
Hopefully your dealer will work with you. If your bike is under the original 3 year unlimited warranty then it should be covered. If the bike is now in the remaining 5 year extended warranty through Honda then most likely it will not be covered. The extended warranty clearly states that audio/navigation components will not be covered by the extended warranty. Speakers, the center display, or the main audio unit under the passenger seat. Again it could depend on your dealer what they do but if not covered it’s a 3000$ minimum repair job for parts and labor.Fred,
I didn’t have an ohm meter along, so I actually replaced the fuse. No, I don’t have a CB.
I’ve been working with my dealership back home, and after going thru about everything that was mentioned on here, it’s headed to a dealership here in Phoenix. I do have the 8 year warranty coverage, so I hope I don’t have anything to worry about. 🤔😳
Thanks to everyone that gave me some input. I’ll post the outcome.
I betting it’s the audio unit under the seat. I can remember an owner having a dead screen but he still had audio etc playing through the speakers and could toggle through each audio source. There was no way of knowing what source was selected on the screen since it was dead but he could tell if he was on FM radio, Bluetooth etc. by listening . Everything on his bike was just the same and functioned the same just he couldn’t see anything. He was under the initial 3 year warranty at the time his screen was replaced. One other guy had some dead pixels but never posted a follow upSounds like it’s the dash cluster. They are trying to run it thru warranty, so it will be Tuesday at the earliest before I hear anything.
Last I talked to him, he was in the process of getting an infrared imaging tool in hopes of being able to locate a hot spot on the board when connected to power that would indicate where on the board the short is occurring.Have you heard anything from Lewis with the faulty unit you sent him?