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Discussion Starter #1
I've noticed the last week or so, that I am getting a slight vibration in the handlebars, so that my left fingers and thumb are going numb after about 30 minutes of riding. The only thing I can think of what has changed on the bike is that a month ago, (1,000 miles) I got a new rear tire. I checked the tire and it doesn't look like I lost any weights.
I did notice it has built up of dirt on the rim and maybe it is getting out of balance. I will clean that off and see if that helps.
I am thinking of getting the Centramatic Wheel Balancers and see if that solves the problem.
Anyone else come across a vibration on their 2018+ Goldwing.
Is there something else I should check?
 

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No vibrations experienced as you described on my 2018 GL1833 DCT Tour.
 

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Nothing out of the ordinary noticed.
 

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My cyper crystal balls foretell of a failing tire carcass. It has NOTHING to do with the bike being a DCT, don't feed the troll.

prs
 

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Agree with the pigeon. A cheap check before spending the bucks on centramatics is throw a couple of ounces of balancing beads in and remove the wheel weights. If still an issue, suspect tire(s).
 

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Speaking of vibration in the handlebars...this new wing isn't quite as smooth feeling in the handlebar with vibration as the old model...it isnt really bad, its just not quite as smooth.
I noticed more vibration in the handlebars at highway speeds when I installed the Lid Lock handlebar helmet lock/ bar end damper.The Lid Lock dampers due to the extreme cut out in them for hanging the helmet are half the weight of the OEM bar weights and I felt more vibration in the handlebars at highway speeds using the Lid Locks.
I removed the Lid Lock helmet locks/bar end dampers and installed some aftermarket handlebar bar end dampers that are longer and heavier than the OEM bar end dampers and the results are now my bike is as smooth feeling in the handlebars as my old wing.
 

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I got new tires and also noticed a slight vibration on the bars. My dealer agreed(Wild West Honda) he changed the tires twice before a set was acceptable. I use B Stones. My thinking is some of the tires even with weights are not as true as they should be
 

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No vibrations as you described on my bike. You mentioned the only thing that has changed is you installed a new rear tire. That is “where” I would start looking.
?
 

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Can't say I've experienced this either ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
First of all, I am not putting those beads in the tire. I did that with my 05 and that was fine, but I don't want to take a chance of damaging the TPMS sensors.
Riding the bike 14,500 miles and no vibration, and then it shows up after getting a 1,000 miles on the rear tire, seems to me the rear tire would be the place to start. I tried riding in different modes, Econ and Tour, and it is still there. I did notice the yellow dot on the tire is not exactly lined up with the valve stem. I would think when they balanced the tire, that would have been compensated for.
 

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Flygoy, the wheel's heavy spot is typically not right at the valve stem, but rather 6" to 8" away for some reason. Oddly, Honda did have the rims marked, but the mark is on the INSIDE of the rim. I think one of Fred's bonus videos shows exactly what I am saying. There is more to it than just balance, out of round in vertical plane is a biggie and even lateral can come into play. Carcass defects are another possible.

You can do some easy self checks. Go for a ride long enough to warm up the tires normally. Park on flat floor on center stand while tires are still fully warm. If a front tire to check, jack it up front a little so that neither it or the rear is grounded. If a rear only, obviously it is already suspended. (1.) With very good lighting lay down at side of tire and observe the little empossed tell-tale line that is close to the rim. "Eye-ball" that litle line as you slowly rotate the tire to see if the distance from the rim edge to that line varies. Repeat at other side. Both tell-tale lines should be equidecent all the way around, if not, the tire needs to be bead broken and remounted with proper lube and quick inflation (adequate air supply and valve core OUT of stem) to get the two loud BANGS. (2.) Lay a brick or similar heavy flat surfaced object very close to the edge of the tire side wall, maybe a 5 milimeter gap. Observe that gap as you rotate the tire slowly. The more consisstent the gap stays the better, repeat at other side. A very small variance may be OK. A larger variance could be the tire or the rim and needs further testing with run-out gauge and Honda specs. (3.) Place a stack of thin washers directly on floor under lowest point of tire tread, use just enough washers to again create that small gap between tread and top washer. Observe the gap as you slowly turn the wheel. Again, only very small variance is acceptable.

Good luck!

prs
 

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I would consider the problem being the front tire. You didn’t mention the age/mileage of the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would consider the problem being the front tire. You didn’t mention the age/mileage of the front.
The front tire was replaced last October and has 2,000 miles on it and there has been no problem after it was installed.
 

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With my old wing while on a trip it developed a vibration and it could be seen in the mirrors..it bothered me so much that I almost pulled off the mirrors to try to find out what was going on...anyways when I got home I seen that the rear tire was wore out....changed the rear tire and the bike was smooth again....never had that experence with the rear tire causing vibration since that time but I learned that a rear tire can cause a vibration
 
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