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Great project and great write up! :yes1:

A thought that came to me while reading this post is "for a final security measure" after you have glued the top back on shrink some large shrink tubing around the sender just in case it "pops the top off" while riding. That way you won't lose the top and you can glue it back on.

Just my 2 cents....
 

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Discussion Starter #22
That's a great precaution.... I had the same thought when I first put the sensor on. I cut the finger tip off a rubber glove and stretched it over the sensor.

After I cut the top off a sensor that I had glued on, I realized there is no way this glue is ever letting go, so I didn't put the glove back on. Even if there was a pin hole where the top was glued on, the sensor would leak, but it's not coming off with this glue unless you cut it off....It's incredibly strong stuff.
An extra precaution is never a bad thing, but I don't use it now on my sensors...

Good luck and be safe !
Kurt

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Discussion Starter #24
Two, MAYBE, two and a half years is the best I've seen from my sensors. My Dad, and a buddy of mine also have the system. Two years is pretty much the norm....and that is removing them for six months during the winter.
One of my Dad's sensors that I just replaced was a year and a half old....that was one summer, then removed for the winter, then the following summer, then dead.

I absolutely love the Doran system, but I think they are going to see diminished sales in the future unless they offer a sensor with replaceable batteries like many of the others.

When you replace your batteries, please come back to this thread and let us know how it went. I'd love to know that this thread has helped someone !

Good luck,
Kurt

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I have five old sensors and will try this fix. I just bought two new ones in spring and already have one that is going off in mornings but works fine when I ride a little. I like having mine powered all the time because I know how the air pressure is before riding and batteries has been the only drawback and this should take care of that.


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I have five old sensors and will try this fix. I just bought two new ones in spring and already have one that is going off in mornings but works fine when I ride a little. I like having mine powered all the time because I know how the air pressure is before riding and batteries has been the only drawback and this should take care of that.


Thanks
Please report back after you replace the batteries......I'd like to hear other success stories !

Kurt

Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation causes your worst fears to come true.
 

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I love the Doran system, but I think they are going to see diminished sales in the future unless they offer a sensor with replaceable batteries like many of the others.
:agree:

Read somewhere that someone on this forum contacted them about the use of field replaceable batteries. They said that there were concerns about the case separating.

But other systems have field replaceable batteries and that is not an issue. It would be even less an issue if the sensors are mounted inside the tire. If separation occured the parts would be caught.

Understand that a business needs an after initial sale continueing revenue stream. But the lack of field replaceable batteries could cause the entire product line to fade as consumers go elsewhere. Field replaceable batteries are becoming the norm, so Doran may have to get on the stick and make a change. Especially as the sensors are $45 a pop.

I got 2 full riding seasons out of my sensor set. Both are dead now. Winter is approaching and the riding season ending. Tires are nearing the end of their life. Will address both issues in the spring.
 

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This battery thing has me thinking about a different brand system. I put new caps and they did not last long. I had a bike wreck and did not get to ride for 4 months. I had the caps off the bike to save the batteries but when I put them back on to start riding the front started to act up and now don't work.
 

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I tried it!

Kurt, I finally had an opportunity to try your procedure on a sensor for a friend ( I don't have a TPMS on my trike).
I used a heat gun to warm up the sensor and it was easy to cut off the cap with a utility knife.
I had no problem breaking the spot welds on the top of the battery, but although I heeded your warning about not lifting the battery too high, the solder let go on the lug. I soldered it back on, and it seemed to hold pretty good!
I installed the battery and proceeded to glue the cap back on using JB Weld Plastic Weld for Rigid and Semi Flexible Plastic.
It is an Epoxy Putty that you knead. I rolled into a worm like shape, and set it into the sensor joint and held it together in a vice!
What I didn't realize was that the joint had to hold air pressure...:banghead:
I probably had a void at the point where the epoxy rope met.
The good news is, the sensor worked when we tested it. It was showing 41PSI.
The bad news was the pressure was dropping due to a leak in the glue joint.
I think it's a simple fix! I will remove the cap and re-glue it after cleaning it up.
I will likely use Cyanoactylate Adhesive (which is what Permabond 240 is). I can't seem to find Permabond 240 in Canada!
When I complete the fix, I will report back to you!.......Marcel
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I'm happy to hear your making progress.....with the right adhesive you'll be all set !
Be sure to put some type of insulator under the battery so it can't ground itself out...

Let us know when the sensor is up and running !

Kurt
 

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doran sensors

Just had to purchase new sensors for my 360 unit. For those who need new ones the price is now $ 79.98 for two. Not complaining just an update.
tried the replacement method, kept breaking the solder joint on the board.
Billy
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Thanks for the price update....


$40 per sensor that last for two years ? That's ridiculous.
I love the system, but with price of sensors, Doran should be ashamed of themselves.

Also, if you can solder like redwinger above can, you can just take the battery out and not worry about the connection.
You can order these batteries with the terminals on the battery already and then just solder one to the board like they must do from the factory....that would be really simple.

Kurt
 

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I had these on 2 semi's and after replacing 13 of them in 3 years I decided it was time to change to a user replaceable battery. Been happy every since. I got a total of 58 sensor on trucks and farm equipment so the easy of changing a battery quickly is important. Plus so far I haven't had a problem with my smarTire ones on our wings yet. They're starting there 10th year inside the tires. So I'm looking for a replacement because I can't believe they're still working. Truck system technologies is working on a bike system but not out yet just hoping they have it in time for me.
 

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I had these on 2 semi's and after replacing 13 of them in 3 years I decided it was time to change to a user replaceable battery. Been happy every since. I got a total of 58 sensor on trucks and farm equipment so the easy of changing a battery quickly is important. Plus so far I haven't had a problem with my smarTire ones on our wings yet. They're starting there 10th year inside the tires. So I'm looking for a replacement because I can't believe they're still working. Truck system technologies is working on a bike system but not out yet just hoping they have it in time for me.
Having problems with the wheel sensors again problem think I will switch brands also
 

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I just replaced 2 batteries. It was not at all difficult and worth the effort to save $100 - even if they only last a year! Thanks for the tutorial ???
 

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OK I finally got around to trying this procedure, I did get the top off pretty easy with a heat gun and razor but found that I did break the tab on the inside welded piece. I will try and solder it back on later today and then will do the other 4 I have before gluing them back together. I still have a working set on the bike and these are for the trailer and bike so no hurry to finish.


I just got done soldering the tab back on the board, it seems to be good and will do all 5 of them and then glue them all back at once. I still have to order the glue, it seems like they would have just made the units so the top could be unscrewed and battery replaced without a big deal like the other units on the market but I do like the monitor that is mounted right in front of me so I can see if the tires are going bad while I ride..

will update later as I progress.
 

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I tried this on just the front sensor so far, and it appears to have worked! While trying to remove the battery, I had broken the bottom battery tab, but my work-around was a little different. I scavenged some really fine wire from a trashed USB cable and soldered it to the point where the broken tab was, made a new tab from some .008 brass shim stock and soldered to the wire.
When I cut open the case, I put it in a lathe and used a razor blade cutoff tool, and later faced off the surface to perfectly flat. Lightly sanded the mating surface of the cap to get it flat and put in a new battery with a plastic shim under it.
I used standard superglue and stuck it together in a clamp over night. Looks like it should hold, time will tell.
I'll get to the rear sensor in a couple of days. So far, I saved $40 to $45......makes me happy:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I tried this on just the front sensor so far, and it appears to have worked! While trying to remove the battery, I had broken the bottom battery tab, but my work-around was a little different. I scavenged some really fine wire from a trashed USB cable and soldered it to the point where the broken tab was, made a new tab from some .008 brass shim stock and soldered to the wire.
When I cut open the case, I put it in a lathe and used a razor blade cutoff tool, and later faced off the surface to perfectly flat. Lightly sanded the mating surface of the cap to get it flat and put in a new battery with a plastic shim under it.
I used standard superglue and stuck it together in a clamp over night. Looks like it should hold, time will tell.
I'll get to the rear sensor in a couple of days. So far, I saved $40 to $45......makes me happy:wink2:
That sounds great.
When I broke the solder on the bottom tab, I didn't have a small enough soldering iron to do the job (I see getting one of those in the near future !).

Let us know if the super glue works. I didn't have good luck with that, so I switched to the other glued mentioned here.

Having a lathe would be awesome (for so many reasons)! I've flattened the mating surfaces by holding them on the side of my bench grinder's stone wheel with great success...

Keep us posted on how things work out and thanks for the update so far !

Fear causes Hesitation
Hesitation will cause your worst Fears to come True
 

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That sounds great.
When I broke the solder on the bottom tab, I didn't have a small enough soldering iron to do the job (I see getting one of those in the near future !).

Let us know if the super glue works. I didn't have good luck with that, so I switched to the other glued mentioned here.

Having a lathe would be awesome (for so many reasons)! I've flattened the mating surfaces by holding them on the side of my bench grinder's stone wheel with great success...

Keep us posted on how things work out and thanks for the update so far !

Fear causes Hesitation
Hesitation will cause your worst Fears to come True
Super glue, regardless of its' viscosity is all the same functionally as long as the mating surfaces are in perfect mating configuration. The thicker varities of superglue will allow for minor imperfections in mating surfaces, and the use of an accellerator (ZIP KICKER) spray helps set up the glue almost instantly. As an added precaution against losing the cap should the super glue let loose, I'll add some heat shrink tubing to the sensor to keep the cap in place. Won't keep it from leaking, but I'll be able to find it :wink2:
I must add, that your write-up and photos are first rate!
Steve F
 

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You can find all varieties of these glues at your local hobby shop that deals with RC planes/boats/cars/"drones". BTW, throw them out after a month from opening or six months from purchase.

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