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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Repeating my post here that was buried in another post as I want to share my trials and tribulations with this process to save anyone else some time.
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A couple observations while I'm in the midst of Homelink, Fog Lights, Acc socket, Acc Cord, USB cord, Armrests, Trunk Rack, 2nd key Fob programming, Radar detector hardwire, and LED Stop. Probably should have done the CB and passenger audio while I had it all apart, but I don't use CB and my wife couldn't care less about playing music while riding, (That's what bluetooth is for.)

-- I was astonished at how many fasteners for bodywork that I removed that were only about finger tight right from the factory. (I don't know how many of these were dealer installed during set up.) I'm going to check every fastener I can reach before I start buttoning things up. I'm not an "over torque it" kind of guy, but many were extremely loose.

-- I highly recommend picking up a set of auto body trim tool "wedges" from your local auto parts store to separate panels. I broke off a tab on the R fog light cover and had to order a new one. I used PAM when I snapped them back together. It worked well.

-- Other than my comments below, the instruction drawings are actually pretty good. Very detailed, and that's for a reason, look at them closely before you proceed, e.g. in my para. 5 below. However as stated in another post above, they tell you what to do, not how to do it.

1. Unless you're REALLY good, give yourself a LOT of time for this project. I consider myself fairly competent, have stripped apart an 1100, 1500, and 1800 to install tons of farkles (+ 2003 GL1800 air filter and complete front fairing and tank removal, cooling hose replacement, etc.) Not much if any of that even approaches this task. I've been at this 5 days and still have to button everything u. If I knew what this was going to take, I would have gladly paid 15 hours or even more to have a dealer do it, however I'd hate the be poor mechanic that takes this on for the first time. :-O And I'm a DIY guy. Really think about what you're getting into before you take this on. Having made that speech, tips start below:

2. The instructions picture for the top shelter removal are correct in that the right side black fairing stays with the shelter and the left side doesn't. Do not remove the phillips screws that hold the fairings together.

3. The instructions for the top shelter omit an allen head at the very bottom of the right side side black fairing, below and behind the fairing pocket.

4.. I AM NOT recommending this, but I absolutely could not get the two acc. dampers for the trunk rack that replace the OEM ones holes to line up to reinsert the metal pins. Tried everything I could think of: levering the rod end from the other side with a small flat tip screwdriver, compressing the dampers, etc. I ended up filing off only about 1-2 millimeters of plastic hinges where they meet when the trunk lid is open. I have the trunk back on and the only completely imperceptible difference is the trunk open 1-2mm more.

5. When you use the supplied tape to secure the sub harness in place onto the trunk liner, make sure you follow the picture exactly! If you run the sub harness against the trunk liner's lip (below where the picture shows by about an inch), you will not be able to reseat the trunk liner. And when you remove and reinstall the trunk liner, be careful with the latch bosses. They will make a loud popping noise when they come off, and when you reinstall the liner, line up the phillips head bosses on first, before you push the trunk liner holes for the latch bosses onto the trunk lid bosses.

6. Believe it or not, the instructions for the LED stop don't tell you to slide it over the rear two trunk rack rods before you install the trunk rack. Had to redo. Pretty obvious in hindsight.

7. I could not get the grommet from the LED stop harness where it routes through the 10mm hole that you drill in the trunk lid to stay in place, even with the usual dish soap. Tired rat-tailing out the hole slightly larger but no go. Siliconed it in place and let it dry until the next day before I continued. It's basically totally hidden by the rack so NBD.

8. As mentioned by others, a step drill beats a hole saw. I used both and the step drill is a much cleaner way to go.

9. When you are removing the rear inside allen bolt to loosen up the saddlebags for homelink/R saddlebag, and USB/L saddlebag installation, don't use a long extension to remove them as it will be at a slight angle. I stripped one. Only by grace from above was I able to drill it and use an extractor to get it out. Didn't want to wait to order a new one so cut a slot in it with a hacksaw so I could get a large flat tip screwdriver on it to reinstall. Better to use a standard 90 deg allen wrench so you can get at it straight on.

10. The R side saddlebag Catch (mechanical/electrical unit at the TOP/instructions are confusing, of the R saddlebag) that you install the Homelink module into, only comes off with a sharp LOUD tug at its rear. Do not attempt to reinstall until you have the R saddlebag bolted back into place, as there won't be enough slack in the emergency opening cable. I ran a string through the cable's head hole and ran the string through the proper slot in the Catch so I could pull on the string to pull the emergency cable through the Catch slot when reinstalling the Catch.

11. As an aside, I'm mounting a radar detector under the front fairing, and bought a long ethernet cord (avail on Escort's site if you're using an Escort/Passport) that I ran to the accessory fuse block (next to the battery) upper L acc screw terminal. For some reason the screw just below that isn't hot, although on the diagram of the fuse panel cover it appears that it should be. This upper L screw is switched, so no need to put in a switched aux fuse block, although with a CAN Bus, you'd have to be careful where you hook it up to. The days of finding any old hot wire are gone. I did install an Admore brake flasher on another CanBus bike that splices into the turn and brake and tail light wires with no electrical gremlin problems though, including running the switched aux fuse block wire to the taillight.

UPDATE>>> There is a hole inside the forward fairing just in front of and above the front fork that I velcro'd my radar detector into. Then I velcro'd the wireless sending unit (that flashed the red light inside my helmet to the left of that hole against the side of the fairing. Still hardwired as described above.

12. Be careful of the cable routing tabs on the trunk lid as mentioned in another post. If you rest the trunk lid on a hard surface they will break. (As per the instructions that state this a little too late in the process.)

13. When reinstalling the saddlebags, be careful. What happened to me was one of the three collars for each saddlebag, the metal collars that fit behind the three allen bolts with the big washers, that reside underneath (2), and behind the inside rear (1) of the saddlebags that fit inside same size diameter rubber washers somehow got knocked loose during reinstallation of the right saddlebag. Of course, it was the right saddlebag that includes the Catch assy. in it. Meaning when I thought the whole right saddlebag and Catch assy. were reinstalled, I had to take it all apart again to reinsert the wayward metal collar.

14. The Rubber plates that go on the top of the luggage rack each have 6 rubber "pins" that go thru the holes in the luggage rack. 3 pins on each side need to be trimmed shorter so they fit into the luggage rack and use Pam or dish soap to grease them first. Use a large flat punch to push on the ones that are inside the LED Stop to seat them. The others can be pulled thru with a needle nose.

15. When installing the armrest nut plates, they won't just slip into the two holes, get them initially set, then put a ratchet extension or some type of long bar, and tap it a few times with a hammer and they will set into place. If you don't set them into place first, you won't be able to get the screws to reach them.

16. Using the instructions method of snipping off the fog lights temporary hole cover and filing leave an ugly rough ring. I tried using a utility knife with limited success. Think I might try using a soldering iron to melt a smooth surface on it, but no promises.

17. 2nd Fob programming works like a charm using Fred H's video. Forget the honda wire short tool, just use a small size paperclip.

Total collateral damage for the job, a broken plastic nut plate inside the left trunk side cover and a broken tab on the opposite one. Only because I got in a rush towards the end of the job even though I know better. There are plenty of other means to fastening those parts so it doesn't show or have any effect on fitment. (But I know. :-/ ) Also, not even one extra left over part or fastener for the entire process, which I am really happy about.
 

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WOW! With all that typing, I'd be here for another 2 months, just trying to type all the instructions that you just wrote (one finger type'r here) LOL

Now on the positive side here, thanks for your experience, I did read it over twice, to "take everything in" It's amazing how much "stuff" we wingers put on our motorcycle to make it our own...BUT then again it's really no different then (*think about it*) the Harley boys that replace the mufflers, replace the chrome, rejet the carbs, (buying a whole new wardrobe) immediately after purchasing a new Harley ... LOL

Ronnie
 

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Discussion Starter #4
WOW! With all that typing, I'd be here for another 2 months, just trying to type all the instructions that you just wrote (one finger type'r here) LOL

Now on the positive side here, thanks for your experience, I did read it over twice, to "take everything in" It's amazing how much "stuff" we wingers put on our motorcycle to make it our own...BUT then again it's really no different then (*think about it*) the Harley boys that replace the mufflers, replace the chrome, rejet the carbs, (buying a whole new wardrobe) immediately after purchasing a new Harley ... LOL

Ronnie
Print them out. :)
Didn't do it all at once, started a word file and added to it every time I ran into an issue.
 

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This post reaffirms my commitment to laziness, and never working on this bike myself! Money paid to dealers can always be earned again, whereas the sanity I think I would lose trying to do all this myself would be gone forever! :grin2:
 

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This post reaffirms my commitment to laziness, and never working on this bike myself! Money paid to dealers can always be earned again, whereas the sanity I think I would lose trying to do all this myself would be gone forever! :grin2:
Definitely something to that, but on the other side, now that I'm wrapping things up, it's a tremendous sense of accomplishment, and I've learned a lot about the bike. Also, now having done this, not sure I would trust a dealer to give this job to a mechanic that has never done this before. Lastly, got to make sure all the bodywork fasteners are now nice and snug, many of them as per my post were quite loose.
 

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Just received my XM antenna today so now I will begin the process of adding the fog lights and XM. Took a pass on home link and the luggage rack as I don't have the need. Should be interesting and thanks for the additional info. Reading all of these "install" posts in an attempt to save me some aggravation.
 

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Just received my XM antenna today so now I will begin the process of adding the fog lights and XM. Took a pass on home link and the luggage rack as I don't have the need. Should be interesting and thanks for the additional info. Reading all of these "install" posts in an attempt to save me some aggravation.
Hope it helps. Another point that may help other (since you are only doing one thing), when installing multiple items, you will be going back and forth between different sets of instructions many times. Mark down where you stopped on what set, and what item number you went to on the other set.
 

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I have downloaded all the instructions and have them all in a binder, I have watched Cruiseman's and Max's videos from Taxxion many times. I am going to tackle it. I think as others have said, since you have to take the whole bike apart and most steps require removing the top shelter it's time to add anything that may catch your fancy, I didn't need the Home-link, but since I'm doing the fog lights I might as well add Home-link and do both sets of buttons at the same time since I am right there. I sure don't want to go back. I don't know if I will use the XM radio antenna but I got that also.

Also later if I want to swap the shocks, I figure stripping the bike is probably 80% of that job, so it will be a good learning experience.

Thanks for the comments Wingcon, and thanks to Mattc2018.

-Jim
 

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What a fantastic write up....thank you. JT_BMW (Jim), I am going to do many of the accessories, but like you wasn't planning on doing them all (XM being one of them). I might just install the antenna, just in case. The home link and fog/driving lights are on the top of my list as well as the luggage rack, usb in trunk and a few other things.

Thanks to all that have taken this on and have documented these procedures for the rest of us.
 
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