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2020 DCT Tour, red/black
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You might want to invest in a power dist. You don't know the power consumption. It will give you more freedom to keep adding more LED options. The Can-Bus has overload protection, I believe. So, you could probably try.
 

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You can add a dozen LEDs before it comes close to just one incandescent light. That is why I swapped out my 2005 tail lights to LEDs. Saves on battery and alternator.
 

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Scarlett (2015 GL1800 HPNMF), KITT (2021 GL1800D)
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Debating on getting one myself. Go here, Goldwing Online, it is the least expensive place I found for a lot of GW accessories. Register with them and it is even cheaper a lot of the time. They don't bombard you with emails like other sites. AL is a great person to deal with. I always recommend his site.

I agree with @Al P. about the power distribution. CANBUS is very sensitive to current draw above what it is supposed to have. I use the Pathfinder PAH60GW-V2. I have my trailer wiring through it right now. I plan to add some extra lights a little later and will run them through it.
 
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2018 Goldwing Tour DCT
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I have it on my 2018. Fits great. Be careful not to tug on the wires much. They will pull loose from the LED circuit board.
It does not come with connectors, only loose wires at the end.

I do NOT recommend splicing it into the bike's wiring.

If that is the only aftermarket light and accessory you will have, then suggest getting a plug and play harness from Pathfinder, Kury, Goldstrike, or Electrical Connections (I'm partial to Pathfinder), cutting off a connector from the harness and wiring the light to the harness.

If you have or are going to add other lights and/or accessories, then highly recommend getting an isolator/plug and play harness kit from Pathfinder or Electrical Connections. (I'm again partial to Pathfinder).
 

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Scarlett (2015 GL1800 HPNMF), KITT (2021 GL1800D)
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You can add a dozen LEDs before it comes close to just one incandescent light. That is why I swapped out my 2005 tail lights to LEDs. Saves on battery and alternator.
The 2005 uses a fuse system and isn't controlled by a computer like the CANBUS. My 2015 is all LED (including headlights). Current draw is not "monitored" on the older systems. That is why if you changed the turn signals to LED, you had to change the flasher unit along with it or you would get no flash or hyperflash. The turn flasher unit for incandescent bulbs run off of current draw.

That changed with the 2018+ as the current is monitored by the computer and if there is more than expected, it decides there is a problem and things start acting weird.

It is always a good idea to not tap into the wiring, but rather have a power distribution block of some kind to keep the load off the bikes wiring and reduce the amount of potential problems.
 

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2018 Goldwing Tour DCT
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You can add a dozen LEDs before it comes close to just one incandescent light. That is why I swapped out my 2005 tail lights to LEDs. Saves on battery and alternator.
That light is for a 2018+
2018+‘a, which is what he has, are LED only. They also have an electrical system that does not tolerate more than one or two aftermarket lights/accessories before things get wonky. That is why 2018+ need isolators
 

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2018 Honda Gold Wing
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The trunk light that Goldstrike sells uses a plug and play harness that plugs into the bikes wiring under the seat without using any relays or isolators...it's harness has four connectors for even more Goldstrike lights if desired... so the Canbus system can't be that sensitive.
 

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2018 Goldwing Tour DCT
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The trunk light that Goldstrike sells uses a plug and play harness that plugs into the bikes wiring under the seat without using any relays or isolators...it's harness has four connectors for even more Goldstrike lights if desired... so the Canbus system can't be that sensitive.
Pathfinder and Kury sell the same type of PnP harnesses with multiple connectors (Pathfinder has 8, Kury has 6). Just cause you can plug in that many lights does not mean that everything will work just fine. Also, when you mix and match manufacturers, you will get problems because the products have different power loads and resistive values.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all your feedback, the manufacturer states that the current is low and it will not upset the canbus but I wanted to see if anyone did have problems? I have checked the wiring diagram and the brake lights are not switched through the canbus, they are switched direct from the front and rear brake switches, via fuse 14 which I think is shared with the headlight,so I guess my only concern is the load for the tail light,
Rectangle Schematic Font Map Parallel
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you for posting the pic, it does look like a good fit, is that the brake light or tail light on? My only thought is the bike tail lights have nice defused look, where as that one you can see the individual LEDs, I know it sounds an bit picky and I guess to get a light to have the same output as the OEM would be expensive and a lot of work.

thank you for replying I appreciate your time and help

jason
 

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I just fitted one last week, as part of my first farkling session on my new DCT here in the UK. I run it from a Show Chrome Electronic Fuse Block (52-942) – currently a steal at only around $50 by the way.

Here's a YouTube video of it:

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I just fitted one last week, as part of my first farkling session on my new DCT here in the UK. I run it from a Show Chrome Electronic Fuse Block (52-942) – currently a steal at only around $50 by the way.

Here's a YouTube video of it:

Wow, you have added a few bits, is there any thing else you could add? 😂👍🏻 love the blue colour and thank you for sharing the video. I have been speaking with the light manufacturer to see if the will supply me a unit before final assembly so I can add a defuser so the tail light will look like the OEM ones. Can I ask, is it a good fit?

thanks

jason
 
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