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Since having the full deal done to my forks, my stops are MUCH less steady. The shop torqued the bearings to the recommended 30 lb/ft and they feel fine on the road. I used to be able to slow roll and keep it in one-half of my lane now takes the whole lane. Is the extra stiffness in steering making it harder to hold a line when going slow. I don't get it.
 

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Stem bearings are too tight...
 

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Steering should be torqued to 15 to 18 lbs
 

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Something is wrong
 

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I noticed the same thing with my Wing when I first installed the All Balls and torqued then to the then recommended torque of 30ftlbs. I re torqued to 25ftlbs and the bike felt better, but still that was too tight. I re torqued to 20 ftlbs and the steering is much better and it's easier to stay in the lane and to be smooth when coming to a stop....as well as when taking off from a stop. I am going to try 15ftlbs for the steering bearings the next time I get around to it....Honda spec's 15 ftlbs for the GL1500 with the same type of steering bearings.
 

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Yup, too tight, but give it a run - they may loosen up for you. If not, get a better technician.
 

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1-up, 2-up, with and without trailer...

Perfectly straight stops even 1 HANDED!

Full Traxx's setup - max spring strength / stiffness front and rear, all balls, kury fork brace.

BTW - torqued to 45 ft lbs.
 

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Since having the full deal done to my forks, my stops are MUCH less steady. The shop torqued the bearings to the recommended 30 lb/ft and they feel fine on the road. I used to be able to slow roll and keep it in one-half of my lane now takes the whole lane. Is the extra stiffness in steering making it harder to hold a line when going slow. I don't get it.
Your head bearings are overtightened, causing too much steering drag. That's what's causing the bike to wander around at low speeds. It'll also create darting in turns and higher steering effort. The "recommended torque" is way too high for correct bearing drag, but it does guarantee you can take your hands off the bars at 40 mph and not have the dreaded wobble - which is exactly why most owners install the All Balls in the first place. A clear case of misplaced priorities.

Roadie has it exactly right - follow the GL1500 procedures for bearing adjustment. With the tapered bearings torqued to 45 ft. lbs as DJ Fire suggests, I'd be surprised if you enjoyed the results he's claiming. Tighten your car's front wheel bearings to 45 ft. lbs, and see what happens. Not good.

Stu
 

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another thought...
all I did was put the Trax springs in my front end (nothing else)
and then I experienced the same slow speed "wandering" as you have described.

After some trail and error, I realized I did not raise the fork tubes in the clamps (approx 10 mm).
After I raised the fork tubes, I no longer had the wandering feeling.

Easy inspection:
Take the plastic cover off the fork tube caps and make sure your fork tubes are sticking up above clamps.

Dennis
 

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Steering should be torqued to 15 to 18 lbs
+1 - I torqued mine to 14ft-lbs and have been very happy with the results. I didn't have a wobble to start with and I still don't. I also don't have an over-dampened steering system - which is the result of excessive preload on the stem bearings.

Let's not forget who's selling what here - allballs is selling bearings with the implied promise that tapered roller bearings will eliminate the "dreaded" decelerating wobble. They are successful at it because they recommend an excessively-high torque value. Don't fall for it. Torque them (set the preload) properly and you will have good results that won't interfere with the steering system.

I do think that tapered rollers are a better choice in a bike with the steering stem loads that the wing must handle, but over-torquing them is not necessary.
 

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Let's not forget who's selling what here - allballs is selling bearings with the implied promise that tapered roller bearings will eliminate the "dreaded" decelerating wobble. They are successful at it because they recommend an excessively-high torque value. Don't fall for it. Torque them (set the preload) properly and you will have good results that won't interfere with the steering system.

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I would bet that the company that sells All Balls hasn't done any research at all with the GL1800 to determine the correct torque for the steering bearings they sell...they most likely are just going with what they have read on the GL 1800 boards, and a few years ago everybody was going with 30 ft lbs.

With the All Balls torqued to 20 ft lbs, my Wing has no decel wobble.
 

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I did the All Balls last week and ended up torquing to 22.5. Biggest dieffernce I noted are lighter steering, tracks better, removing hands in sweeper turns the bike tracks great, but especially like the stopping. As I have short legs, with two up I always disliked the feeling of stopping in an unstable fashion. Now the bike rolls to a stop and does not wonder about and need to be kept under control for me. I never had any real problems with decel wobble before, but could sense it but only to the point that putting one finger on the handlbar stopped it. Now, no wobble, but that is of little concern anyway. Just like the handling and feel of the bike.

However all that said, not sure I could not have done the same things with playing with the stock bearings some. While I checked torque a few times, I did not chenge it before.
 

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For what it's worth. I have the full Traxxion set-up, and have gone thru two tire changes (sets). I did the upgrade on the stock Dunlops at 5k miles. No wobble before or after the Traxxion. I then went thru a set of Metz's....never a hint of wobble. Then the 2nd set of Metz's, and in a short time I had a wobble from hell!! I'm fairly convinced that the wobble is in the tires, and NOT the steering bearings. Maybe there is some realtionship......but my experience does not support it.

Sorry I know this is not a wobble thread.....but I'm bored and wanted to jump in!
 

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Steve S,
I once asked a "well known" Wing tech on this site, about that same assumption. The one that I figured is what most of you are talking about. That's the fact that if you put new steering head bearings in and then torque the bejeezus out of it, it would surely seem to me that you'd loose any chance of "wobble". He never answered me. Anyway, doesn't it presume that if you torque those bearings that much, it would act like a "Steering dampener" and cut way down or, eliminate the wobble all together? It sure seems to me that it would. So, if that were the case, then it would stand to reason that if you torqued the stock bearings a little more, it to would stop the wobble.

Before the flame throwers get their catapults ready, I'm just speculating some actions and reactions here. I'm not going to jump in and start tightening things, just watching and learning. I do have a tiny bit of a wobble at higher speeds, around 50 plus or minus but, at slower speeds, around 35 and down, it gets real bad if I'm not hanging on pretty good. If I'm paying attention, which I always do, it's not there but, if I relax for a second or two, it starts. I'm no design genius so, I'm not sure just what's causing it, especially at that speed. Oh well, I'm happy with it and when the weather clears, we'll go for a little jaunt.
Scott
 

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2005 GL 1800. Stock bearing torqued to factory spec.

New D250's no wobble, 16,000 miles, cupped D250's, wobble. New E-III's no wobble, from 12,000 -16,000 miles on E-III's, little wobble. New Bridgestones, no wobble, old Bridgstones, wobble.

Keep hands on bars and it don't matter. Replace tires when worn out. Don't waste money and don't overtighten the steering bearing.

Similar experience over 18 years with 91 Venture except the Dunlop K-491-II's never wobble and last 20,000 miles. Stock steering bearing never replaced, torqued to factory spec. Still riding it every week.
 

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30 is way too tight.

We used to use 25 early on, but have gone back to 23.

We use a $300 digital torque gauge. If you use one of the old spring needle type torque wrenches, you won't be able to successfully measure to within a couple of pounds.

The bike would not steer at 45lbs, I actually think it would lock down. Must be some mistake there.

Tires are the problem more than 50% of the time. "New" does not mean "good". We have proven this dozens of times.

We keep known good, verified wheels and tires here at the shop for "Testing" when someone has a wobble that won't go away.
 

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I use 22.5 ft lbs as a starting point, and then fine tune based on "feel" of the steering, though this can be a bit hard to do if you haven't done it a time or two. Sometimes I find it helpful to intentionally overtighten them just a bit so I can just feel a little resistance develop at the front wheel, and then begin backing off the adjustment just to the point that the resistance goes away.

You have to jack the front of the bike off the ground to feel it, and you also have to make sure none of the cables or hoses are interfering and giving you a false feeling of resistance.

Some settling in will normally occur after the initial install, so it is always a good idea to recheck them after a couple hundred miles or so.

I agree that 30 ft/lbs is way too much, even after accounting for settling in. You can also reduce some of the settling in by overtightening them by 5 or 10 ftlbs and working the bars back and forth a few times. This should help insure all the races are all the way pushed home. Once you feel like you have them all the way settled, back off the adjuster, and reset it to your final value.
 
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