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Discussion Starter #1
While I have my bike down for winter maintenance I wanted to recheck the torque on the all balls I installed last winter after 21k miles. I pulled the top plate off and carefully removed the jam nut as to not disturb the torque setting of the bearings. When I installed the bearings I set the torque to 27 pounds and locked it down. I started with the torque wrench set to 15 pounds and very carefully check the torque. Click, no movement of the nut. I then raised the torque in 1 pound increments till the nut moved. Finally at 21 pounds I got movement. So, I am taking from that there was still 20 pounds of torque on the bearings. Here is the part that burns me up about all this. I have a very bad indent in the straight ahead position. Much worse than the stock bearings had at 54k miles. Why? Anyone else notice this?
 

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Sounds to me like 27 ft/lbs may have been too much and might have dented the races.

Also, of concern to me when I installed the All Balls was that (if I remember correctly) they were made in China. Chinese bearings are typically the lowest quality (to only be surpassed by Pakastan) and I wouldn't be surprised if the races weren't too soft to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fred, thanks for your reply. I bought the bearings from my local dealer. I spoke with their mechanic at the time and he said he had installed many sets of them and he always sets the final torque at 30 pounds. That sounded a little high to me too so I backed them off to 27 pounds. I checked the pull with a fish scale when I installed them and barely got 2 pounds so I just left it at that. I think your right about the china made bearings.
 

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I dont like the sound of this thread,i am fixin to install the alls balls soon,am i gonna be sorry ???OLE YELLER MBG PA
 

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When I installed my roller bearings @37,000 miles, they were torqued to 15 ft. lbs. because I didn't want to flatten the rollers and/or notch the races. Concerned that I may not have fully seated the races or torqued them enough, I just checked them at 43,000 miles. The torque setting was still 15 ft. lbs.

Because Traxxion recommended 25 ft. lbs., that is what I set them at. Anything over that felt too tight to me. Using a digital and a spring pull test didn't help me much because I could never get over a 2 lb. reading unless the torque exceeded 30 ft. lbs. :?:

Every bike is most likely a little different. I always like to establish a base line torque value recommended by the professionals, and then fine tune it slightly either way based on my particular application and feel.

I would recommend enlisting the help of an experienced mechanic if anyone has the slightest doubt in their own abilities.
 

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Fred; I do not know exactly how to cross match bearings for size and fit so this may be a wild goose chase; but Honda part number 91015-425-832 at 20.40 each would be a possible match in a tapered bearing. Honda uses that in the VTX 1800C and it is a part that superceeds a previous patt, I don't know if the VTX 1800 ever had ball bearings -- the VTX 1300C does. I will ask around at the VTX site to see what those guys may know. Japnaeese bearings have a reputation to be on par with premium US and English production bearings.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Pidgeon Roost

I went to the All Balls site and they list two completely different part numbers for the VTX 1800 and the Goldwing 1800. I assume from that they wont interchange. Good idea though.
 

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Galute,

I suppose a tear down is in order to see just what failed. Please let us know what you find. :?

Maybe a trip to your closest bearing supply house is in order to see if they can match the bearings and races with better quality ones. :idea:

So sorry for all your troubles. :(
 

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I just change mine out to the All balls. The last thing I want to do and have to go back in and change them out again!!!!!
 

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Hey, don't panic everybody. Many folks have All Ball bearings installed with no problems, including myself. I was just commenting on the overall quality of Chinese bearings. That doesn't necessarily mean anything is wrong with them. This is the only report of notched races I have heard, so it doesn't indicate a trend.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Guys, Fred is right, there is no need to worry about yours yet. I was just wondering if anyone else had noticed this. Mine is not bad enough that I percieve it as a problem yet. It is just something I noticed while working on the bike, I have not noticed it being a problem while riding. As for tearing it down to see what the problem is, that's gonna have to wait till it gets to be a problem or till it's time to change the fork oil again. I just finished putting the front end back on this bike when I noticed this and really don't want to tear it back apart right now. When I do I will let you know what I find.

 

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I'm a new winger but an old biker, what the heck are you guys talking about, I am assuming that its the ft shock tower. But what condition are you correcting, the dredded 40mph wobble???
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ICEBRU said:
I'm a new winger but an old biker, what the heck are you guys talking about, I am assuming that its the ft shock tower. But what condition are you correcting, the dredded 40mph wobble???
We are talking about replacing the factory ball bearings in the steering head with the tapered roller set from All Balls. Lots of folks do this to help with the wobble problem. I did it to help with the loose feeling and wallowing in the twisties.

Laen,
that only counts if ya use em. :lol:
 

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galute said:
Pidgeon Roost

I went to the All Balls site and they list two completely different part numbers for the VTX 1800 and the Goldwing 1800. I assume from that they wont interchange. Good idea though.
Rats!

prs
 

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NO; don't panic. It is most likely a non-issue. The sky is still up there.

Galute; with a tear-down as extensive as that, your center "notching" could be as simple as a cable or brake/clutch line in a bind or rubbing. Youmust have really been going after the termites to tear it down that much! :lol:

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #19
PRS, I thought the same thing, I checked, double checked and checked again all the cables, wires and hoses. Nope it's a bearing. I can feel a slight click into and out of the straight ahead position.

The reason I had the bike torn down that far was to fix the oil light that hasn't worked in a couple years. I tried everything to find the problem including a complete tear down of the instrument cluster. Finally with my laptop drug out to the shop and with Jon Sargent manning the schematics instructing me what to do with the test meter, we tracked the problem down to a six wire connector right on top of the engine. A wire in the back of the connector had hung on the throttle rocker right where the throttle cables connect. HOLY COW! What a PITA to get to! Finally after pulling the left radiator loose I was able to take two really long pairs of needle nose pliars and a couple gymnastics classes I managed to get the wire plugged back into the connector. It works!!

Thanks Jon, I would never of found the problem without your help.
 

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galute said:
PRS, I thought the same thing, I checked, double checked and checked again all the cables, wires and hoses. Nope it's a bearing. I can feel a slight click into and out of the straight ahead position.
Just take the top clamp and nuts off and look at the top race.

Run a pick around the backside of the race and see if the pick hooks in anything. I will be shocked if the bearing really is bad, but I'd like to know.

I have never heard of this even one time, for what that's worth.
 
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