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I am replacing the allballs tapered bearings in my 07 GL1800. What is a good torque to use on the adjuster nut?
 

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I am replacing the allballs tapered bearings in my 07 GL1800. What is a good torque to use on the adjuster nut?

See thread below with subject line "tapered bearings - how they should feel after being replaced"
 

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See thread below with subject line "tapered bearings - how they should feel after being replaced"
Not sure what thread "below" you refer to. I have this project ahead of me also. Bought the bearing kit last summer but put the job off so as not to shorten the already short riding season. If/when the snow melts it will be time to get it done.
 

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Not sure what thread "below" you refer to. I have this project ahead of me also. Bought the bearing kit last summer but put the job off so as not to shorten the already short riding season. If/when the snow melts it will be time to get it done.
This is the first post of referenced thread. It's current. Can't help you more.


Tapered bearings - how they should feel after being replaced
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[IMG alt="GoldWingrGreg"]https://www.gl1800riders.com/d2/avatars/m/4/4029.jpg?1581666047[/IMG]
GoldWingrGreg
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Discussion Starter • #1 1 d ago
Assuming the 5th gen has newer tires, in short, the Wing should feel light, free, and playful.

I had one come in that recently had tapered bearings replaced at another shop. He probably has less than 1000 miles on them. He stated that he knew the bearings had been torqued to 30ft/lbs, and felt that there was something wrong with the handling. After a test ride, I asked him if he would describe the handling as too predictable, and ridged feeling. Those were the handling characteristics I felt. Additionally it had no pull, with one hand on the bar and lightly pushing right/left, it would return to center. There was no wobble except at around 30mph, and the handlebars would snake back and forth. When trying to lock the steering, it only locked in one position instead of both.

I know some shops recommend torquing to 23ft/lbs, and that could be a blanket torque when upgrading to a full suspension package; however, that's not what I find is best. A fish scale must be used. Usually my final torques are in the 17-21 ranges. When finished, I would describe good handling characteristics as light, free, and playful. There should be no pull, no wobble from 50 all the way down to 30. No snaking in the 30mph rage. When lightly pushing left/right the bars they should return to center. The steering head should lock in both positions, left and right.

Also, tapered bearing life is not as long as we'd like. Be sure to do full services which includes suspension inspections every 8k. I believe my last set wore out at about 70k. So be on the lookout for needing to replace them again as your mileage racks up.

JustWings - GL1800 Specialty Service and Repair

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I think greyhound means here. Read through my thread, more info is offered.

 

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I am replacing the allballs tapered bearings in my 07 GL1800. What is a good torque to use on the adjuster nut?

I think greyhound means here. If you read through my thread, more info is offered.

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Folk have differing views on the torque for the taper bearings. I'm not sure whether different bikes respond differently or whether some folks are more insensitive to how the bike feels.

For me it's 7lb/ft, any tighter and the bike doesn't run straight. My bike doesn't have and never had a steering wobble. My taper bearings came on a Traxxion tree so I used them but I wouldn't do it again. When it's next apart it'll be back to standard Honda fitment.
 

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I have had mine on for 30k miles torqued to 25lbs. Bike goes straight and smooth. Added Racetech goldvalve kit and springs to the front suspension along with a fork brace and newer tripletree at the same time.
 

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I used 17 lb-ft as my initial taper nut setting....then fine tuned using a cheap digital pull-scale to get to ~4 lb fork pull toward a left hand turn.
 

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The method that works well for me is to find the spot where I start to feel resistance, and then back off that setting just until the resistance nearly disappears. Typically I end up with between 19-22 ft lbs on the final torque setting using this method.

You also need to work the triple tree full lock-to-lock several times with a slightly higher torque value to make sure the bearings are all seated good before doing the final settings.
 

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Hope you dont mind but I have a couple of questions on this.

So where are you attaching the scale when you measure the pull?

And is the bike fully lifted so the wheel is off the ground, or say center stand?
 

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Hope you dont mind but I have a couple of questions on this.

So where are you attaching the scale when you measure the pull?

And is the bike fully lifted so the wheel is off the ground, or say center stand?

Not sure if you're asking Fred or the group in general but I'll begin. Per my '01 - '02 service manual: front wheel has to be off ground. (use center stand and scissor jack under engine to raise front wheel); position steering stem to the straight ahead position; hook scale to fork tube between the top and bottom bridges; make sure there is no interference by cable, wire harness or hoses; pull scale keeping it at right angle to the steering stem throughout pull; read scale where the steering stem just starts to move.
 

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Thanks for that.

Looking at my Bonneville easy to attach the scale between the tripple tees ( presuming these are the bridges you refer to ), on my 09 Wing - well they are sorta buried.
 

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Thanks for that.

Looking at my Bonneville easy to attach the scale between the tripple tees ( presuming these are the bridges you refer to ), on my 09 Wing - well they are sorta buried.

I don't know what difference there may be between my '02 and your '09. If you really are determined to use a scale, more "interference" may have to be sidelined or removed. I personally would not attempt to use a scale. Would experiment with a few different torques and test each one swinging the stem lock to lock feeling for resistance. Maybe even take for a little test ride before completely buttoning her all up again. The correct torque/feeling is a personal preference thing I believe. I wouldn't be a slave to any numbers set forth in a book.
 

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The value is the amount of force required to move the forks from straight ahead, with the force pull on a loop placed around one fork leg, pulling at an angle 90 degrees to the steering stem. Though the manual drawing shows pulling near the top bridge there is nothing to stop you from pulling on the fork leg down below the headlight and clear of the fairing. Down by the fork seal is perfect.

Geometry and moment arm won't change.... you could pull from the axle end for that matter as long as the pull is perpendicular to the fork leg and 90 degrees to the stem.

By using the pull value range published by Honda you will save a lot of time and energy taking everything apart multiple times and guessing at how much torque to apply or remove from the locking nut and top bridge to get the right feel. The right feel comes from the correct value.
 

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Thanks for the replies. I have been in and swapped out the head stock bearings chasing a wobble, that turned out to be the rear tyre.

I must have got lucky as I set it without any scale and by how it felt when I pushed on the bar. 60-000k and still feels right and no forward and back movement when pulling hard on the wheel with it raised off the ground.
 

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The value is the amount of force required to move the forks from straight ahead, with the force pull on a loop placed around one fork leg, pulling at an angle 90 degrees to the steering stem. Though the manual drawing shows pulling near the top bridge there is nothing to stop you from pulling on the fork leg down below the headlight and clear of the fairing. Down by the fork seal is perfect.

Geometry and moment arm won't change.... you could pull from the axle end for that matter as long as the pull is perpendicular to the fork leg and 90 degrees to the stem.

By using the pull value range published by Honda you will save a lot of time and energy taking everything apart multiple times and guessing at how much torque to apply or remove from the locking nut and top bridge to get the right feel. The right feel comes from the correct value.

In my opinion, it is the opposite - the correct value comes from the right feel.
 

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That only works if the person has some prior knowledge and or understanding of whats involved and what its supposed to feel like.

If they are a complete newby they really have no idea and need some guidance.

I am I am a guy who loves known required torque values and torque everything, where possible.
Favourite tools are my inch pound wrench and 6 point sockets..
 

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That only works if the person has some prior knowledge and or understanding of whats involved and what its supposed to feel like.

If they are a complete newby they really have no idea and need some guidance.

I am I am a guy who loves known required torque values and torque everything, where possible.
Favourite tools are my inch pound wrench and 6 point sockets..

True. But setting to recommended specifications doesn't necessarily result in "what it's supposed to feel like". That was my point. When I had my OEM bearings replaced by a mechanic I knew to be competent, he used specs recommended by All Balls which resulted in my bike not tracking properly - requiring constant minor correction because the setting was too tight. I remedied it myself and have lived happily ever after..
 

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True. But setting to recommended specifications doesn't necessarily result in "what it's supposed to feel like". That was my point. When I had my OEM bearings replaced by a mechanic I knew to be competent, he used specs recommended by All Balls which resulted in my bike not tracking properly - requiring constant minor correction because the setting was too tight. I remedied it myself and have lived happily ever after..
When I installed the new wazoo triple tree and all balls, I too followed the instructions of around 22-23 ft.lbs. of torque. That resulted in the bearings binding. I could feel them loaded up waaaaaaay too tight. I backed them down to around 5-7 ft. lbs. and they've been at that setting now for 8,000-10,000 miles. I still had a wobble after that install but, I was not gonna do a make-believe steering dampener by over tightening the bearings. Those bearings are identical to tapered wheel bearings. And you sure as heck don't tighten them up that tight. Not long after I did that fork job, I needed a new front tire. Well, long story short, once that new tire was installed, ALL of the wobble disappeared. So much for $500+ spent on front end parts when my original bearings were just fine. Oh well. That bike is stable from 65 mph, right down the point it will fall over if I wasn't holding on, with zero wobble.
Scott
 
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