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When I first installed the All Balls I set the torque at 30 ftlbs like what was recommended at the time..but one ride it was apparent that was way too tight..I went down to 25..then to 20 and then settled at 15ftlbs...15 ftlbs was the sweet spot for my bike
 

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Folk have differing views on the torque for the taper bearings. I'm not sure whether different bikes respond differently or whether some folks are more insensitive to how the bike feels.

For me it's 7lb/ft, any tighter and the bike doesn't run straight. My bike doesn't have and never had a steering wobble. My taper bearings came on a Traxxion tree so I used them but I wouldn't do it again. When it's next apart it'll be back to standard Honda fitment.
Have you looked at the top of each fork and made sure they stick out the top of the tree exactly the same. If one is higher than the other your bike will pull to one side.
 

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Have you looked at the top of each fork and made sure they stick out the top of the tree exactly the same. If one is higher than the other your bike will pull to one side.
When the bearings are too tight it doesn't pull to one side, it wanders and needs constant correction. It kinda has a mind of its own. It doesn't swerve, it's just not directionally stable as it runs.
 

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When the bearings are too tight it doesn't pull to one side, it wanders and needs constant correction. It kinda has a mind of its own. It doesn't swerve, it's just not directionally stable as it runs.
Plus it doesn't really matter if the tubes are exactly at the same level in the top clamp with telescopic forks. We shoot for that of course but it's the axle clamped in the bottom of the fork legs that aligns the wheel between and in relationship to the fork tubes. If the legs are not exact in the top bridge, one slider will be compressed just more by the exact amount the other tube is higher in the top clamp.
 

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Next time I need to do this I think I go back to stock I think the stock parts are more expensive than all balls anyone know ? (y)
 

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Next time I need to do this I think I go back to stock I think the stock parts are more expensive than all balls anyone know ? (y)
The AllBalls kit I bought was $45.
Given the work involved I don't think the difference in parts cost is much of an issue. I bought the tapered bearings and reasoned they would (hopefully) be sturdier/last longer. Upon disassembly, I believe most of the brindled/notched failure of my current OEM type stem bearings was a substantial over tightening.
 

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I do not view the Chinese All Balls as superior to OEM. At 75,000 miles the OEMs in my 2008 are still working just fine. I did readjust them once, but the was because the top nut had worked loose. I re-greased them at same time as preventive maintenance (as best I could do with a toothbrush). If it ain't broke...
 
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