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Following is a little information on how I installed exterior sidemarker lights, interior lights and carpet:

Exterior Sidemarker Lights

The lights I used are manufactured by MAXXIMA. I just contacted Maxxima and they gave me a dealer (a Kenworth truck dealer) about 5 miles from my house. The lights have 7 LED's per light, use their standard 2-pin right angle connector, draw 50 milliamps each, last for 100,000 hours and cost about $7.00 each. I purchased the clear lenses to match the existing clear lens LED's on the Aluma. Maxxima product numbers are: RED: M36180RCL, AMBER: M36180YCL. Here is link to Maxxima's site: http://www.maxxima.com/

INSTALLATION:
1. After marking locations, drill 1" hole with a holesaw. Apply clear silicone around the hole, screw light to trailer wall with 3/4" self tapping screws, nip screw ends off inside trailer, and snap chrome bezel into place.
2. Then install right angle connector to light, attach light to existing trailer running light wires, and cover light, connector and wires with several layers of heavy duty metal tape (Home Depot). The tape protects the unit and serves as a good base for the carpet. See photos below.



Top view of right front connector



Left front with tape



Left front connects to trailer at far left of photo



Installed left sidemarkers



LIGHTS, camera, action! Here you can see the 7 LED's.


Carpet and Interior Lights

I purchased a tough exterior marine carpet from Lowes for about $15.00. The underlayment pad for the bottom of the trailer was a high end (not the cheap flake glued together pad for wall to wall carpet) pad used under VERY high end oriental carpets. Even though it’s the best a 26 inch x 40 inch piece was only 8 bucks at an oriental carpet specialty store. Patterns were cut from a roll of heavy red rosin paper (Home Depot). Glue was 3M #80 spray adhesive. For cleaning prior to adhesive I used 3M spray Adhesive Remover (3M # 08987) (NAPA) which is an excellent cleaner that does not affect painted surfaces. The interior lights are Sylvania DOT-IT lights ( I also use one in the GL1800 trunk).

INSTALLATION:
1. Most pieces were cut from patterns I made with the red rosin paper. The smaller pieces and "bump outs" were carpeted first. Just cut the pieces, clean the surfaces, glue according to instructions on can, apply each piece of the carpet to the trailer and rub it HARD with a rag folded up 3 or 4 times to "squeegee" out wrinkles. Simple but time-consuming if you want to do a first class job.
2. The bottom IS NOT glued down. It (and the under pad) were patterned and cut then placed in the bottom. The rear half in held in place by fitting it under the bottom wire protector channels. To hold the front I used double stick carpet tape to adhere the carpet to the pad. They can both be removed to wash out spilled Corona (and lime).
3. After all carpet was installed I cut 2 carpet circles out in the top, removed the carpet and adhesive, filled in the cut-outs with Velcro and placed Velcro on each DOT-IT light. Very simple and effective. The DOT-IT lights use 3 AAA batteries in case they are left on by mistake. They are LED units. 4-25-07 NOTE: WHEN CUTTING OUT FOR THE DOT-IT LIGHTS CUT THE CARPET FOR THE FRONT LIGHT (THE LIGHT MORE TOWARDS THE FRONT) IN THE SAME POSITION IN THE TOP FRONT PANEL AS THE REARMOST LIGHT. THIS POSITIONS THAT LIGHT LOWER WHEN THE LID IS OPEN THUS GIVING YOU BETTER ILLUMINATION INSIDE THE TRAILER.
4. Finally I installed "organizers" on each side of the trailer for small items, papers and maps. I purchased a piece of 1/4" x 3/4" aluminum from Home Depot, cut them to length, rounded the ends, pre drilled the pieces and attached the organizers with self tapping screws to the bottom of the top rail.


Starting the carpet installation



Trailer top showing installed DOT-IT lights



Left front



Left rear. Black cord is attached to small LED flashlight Velcroed under latch.



Close-up of flashlight



Aluminum bar to attach orginizer



Installed left side orginizer



Photo of orginizer box I purchased at Wal Mart


Finally a few shots of bike and Aluma trailer


We used the Rivco 6" drop. It puts us dead level when 2 up and shock at 24



Coupler



Under shot of coupler and chain attachment



Closer shot of chains attached to hitch



Left front



Left side. I used Velcro on cooler bottom/tray to stop cooler/trailer contact.



R Rear. Cooler has 3M Paint Protectant film instead of black plastic cover


Hope this helps some of you and creates more ideas for the Aluma!
 

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Nice job.
I can't quit using mine long enough to work on it. Maybe this winter. I'd really like to do the carpet.
 

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Very nicely done. I like it. :yes1: :yes1: :1st: :1st:
 

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Looks Great

You just inspired me to do a couple of things with ours this winter.

Very nicely done!

Cloud9
 

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Nice job on the carpet. I was curious as to what you used for the carpet? I purchased some auto trunk liner carpet on line but didn't quite do it to the extent that you did. I need to buy more and finish the top lid area and back panels similar to what you did to yours. Also, what adhesive did you use to secure the carpet to the trailers interior walls and floor? I think this is agreat project and really fnished off the Aluma trailer.
 

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Absolutely fantastic, looks great. Thank you very much for all the information and photos you provided. Brian
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Guys,

Thanks for all the +++ feedback. It WAS alot of work.


WingmanRed,

I purchased the carpet at a Lowes (homecenter store). I went to the Lowes homepage and saw they have stores in MA so hopefully one is near Beantown. I'm at the Wings Over the Smokies rally in NC but when I get home I'll get and post the Lowes SCU # for the carpet. The adhesive I used is manfactured by 3M. It's their #80 Spray Adhesive (usable on, among other things, rubber). The second backing on this marine (boat) carpet in rubber. It's very easy to use and holds well. GOOD LUCK!
 
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WingmanRed,

Sorry this took awhile. CARPET PURCHASE INFORMATION:

Purchased from: Lowes
Their Product #: 40680
Their description: Marine Carpet 6' Midnight
Price I paid: 7' @ 4.27 per foot $29.89

Hope this helps you.

coolhand

The carpet is 3/8" thick and medium gray. The heavy duty dense pad for the trailer floor is 1/4" thick.

Here are some photos of the carpet and pad:


Bottom side of pad



Top of pad



Pad and carpet together
 

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Re: ALUMA side & interior light + carpet installation ph

That's a beautiful job you did on your trailer! What size and brand are those rims? They really set the whole package off.
Now you just need some '56 Buick bumpers to put all around it to protect it :lol:
 
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Hi Bluebird,

You were the first to notice the special rims! I guess when a guy is retired and hangs out in an ice fishing shack in Wisconsin with his laptop he can pick up on some of the finer, more hard to pick up details in my photographs.

The rims were a gift from my grandmother and came from her 86 Ferrari Testarossa 512 TR. It was a special smaller model Enzo manufactured for her because they were childhood friends in Modena. Needless to say the wheels are dear to my heart. Granny passed last June and left the little 512 to me. Here is a snapshot of it:



And your idea of 1956 Buick bumpers was, well, inspired! Perhaps you graduated from the University of Wisconsin School of Architecture and Design to have come up with such a brilliant proposal. Because of that Harley Earl brainstorm I was able to locate and purchase a nice '56-and a YELLOW one at that! When it arrives the bumpers are OFF that bugger, into the fabrication shop, off to the chromer then onto my Aluma!!!

Here is a photo of my Buick and the beautiful front bumpers:



THANKS for the tip,
Coolhand

PS:

If a guy wanted to get a set of rims almost identical to the ones I got from dear ole Granny all he would have to do is order the MOST FAMOUS ALUMA MOTORCYCLE TRAILER and ask the good folks at Aluma to put on the super duper STOCK WHEELS!!
 

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coolhand said:
Hi Bluebird,

You were the first to notice the special rims! I guess when a guy is retired and hangs out in an ice fishing shack in Wisconsin with his laptop he can pick up on some of the finer, more hard to pick up details in my photographs.

The rims were a gift from my grandmother and came from her 86 Ferrari Testarossa 512 TR. It was a special smaller model Enzo manufactured for her because they were childhood friends in Modena. Needless to say the wheels are dear to my heart. Granny passed last June and left the little 512 to me. Here is a snapshot of it:



And your idea of 1956 Buick bumpers was, well, inspired! Perhaps you graduated from the University of Wisconsin School of Architecture and Design to have come up with such a brilliant proposal. Because of that Harley Earl brainstorm I was able to locate and purchase a nice '56-and a YELLOW one at that! When it arrives the bumpers are OFF that bugger, into the fabrication shop, off to the chromer then onto my Aluma!!!

Here is a photo of my Buick and the beautiful front bumpers:



THANKS for the tip,
Coolhand

PS:

If a guy wanted to get a set of rims almost identical to the ones I got from dear ole Granny all he would have to do is order the MOST FAMOUS ALUMA MOTORCYCLE TRAILER and ask the good folks at Aluma to put on the super duper STOCK WHEELS!!
Coolhand,

Speaking of picking up some fine detail, I noticed that on picture #16 of your original post, you show a view, taken from under the right saddlebag, of the front of your Aluma trailer hitch. Hmm, now the question is: how come there's a bold holding the hitch ball? My hitch ball on my trailer is held by a nut. Can you please explain? Inquiring minds want to know! :lol:
 
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Hi Mike,

I wrote the below reply to your question on January 7. It was in the same thread where you had asked your question ( "Trailer Confusion: Help Me Decide".

Ride Safe and let me know if this helps,

Tom (Coolhand)

NOTE: I posted another Rivco photo of the trailer ball that shows all the parts at the very end of this post.



coolhand said:
Hi Mike (Italian Stallion),

Those photos are mine when I was trying to help other Aluma Owners with some tips on installing carpet and lighting if they decided they wanted to do the same sort of things on their Aluma's.

The second photo below (from Rivco) gives you a better overall of what "goes on" above the hitch hardware you saw in the photo you inquired about in your January 4 post. The first photo below is (I think) the picture you were referring to:



This is a photo of the Rivco Hitch. The Isolator you see comes at no extra charge.


If you can see by these two pictures the Rivco ball has a threaded hole that receives the bolt that is passed up from the bottom, through the hole in the tongue utilizing a regular and lock washer. One of the nice things about the Rivco Hitch is EVERYTHING in their hitch photo only weighs 8 pounds. To see this hitch on the Rivco website here is the link: http://saturn.dnsprotect.com/%7erivcopr ... 356&page=1
I'm pretty sure the attachment points for the Bushtec hitch are either the same or similar; ie only attach to the main frame as opposed to sub-frame attachment. In any event both hitches are good and it's kind of like the Ford/Chevy debate. Can you convince a die hard Ford guy to buy a Silverado? I decided on the Rivco because I wanted to carry less dead weight on the rear of the motorcycle and I already had a Pakit Rak which adapts perfectly to the Rivco.

And I also agree with Lewis. The bolt does have less material sticking down (than a ball with an extended bolt attached with a nut screwed up from underneath) but as you can see, at least from my photo, I don't think that really makes a great deal of difference unless the ball bolt is excessively long.

And here is a picture of our bike and Aluma taken at the gardens at our alma mater, Duke University. If you can see, we used the Rivco Hitch Tongue 6" Drop that pretty much puts our Aluma running dead flat when my wife and I are riding together and the trailer is reasonably loaded. Hope this helps clear up your question. Tom

 

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aluma

Coolhand,
Great job on all of the improvements!

I just bought a used Aluma 13.4 (2002 model). I am installing the carpet, put more rear LEDs on it and side markers...That work is finished. I placed 3/4 foam board on the sides and the top lid before putting the carpet in it. The foam board will help insulate the trailer sort of like a cooler does...so I hope. The carpet will then flow smoothly across all of the crossbeams and the sides/lid. I should have it finished next week.

Thanks for sharing your pictures and work. Again, great job.

Ken
 
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THANKS guys, and I hope everyone is enjoying the Christmas Season! And Happy New Year to one and all.:beer3:

And I would like to add a SPECIAL Happy New Year to Hal, who founded this great site and is responsible for bringing us all together. It's been a difficult year for Hal and I wish him Good Health and Best Wishes for the coming year!!

Just one reminder, or tip, I discovered reference the interior lights.



As I have mentioned in several previous posts the position of the lights in the above photo is not optimum. The rearmost light really isn't in a useful position. It should be mounted about 2 inches to the rear of the front top frame member. This will cast the light from the Sylvania DOT it into a much better place in the trailer, making it easier to load and unload in dark conditions.

I'm also looking around for 2 additional rear running/turn indicator lights for the top left and right corners of the rear painted panel. When I find what I think is the correct scale light I'll install them and post the results.

Happy trailerin' guys,

coolhand
 

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Awesome Job....

I couldn't have found this at a better time...My new MCT will be here at the end of the month...One question....Did you use carpet pad under all the carpet...or just the floor ? I can't see putting it on the "bump-outs" , but the walls and the lid are doable..

:thumbup:
 
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