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I am guessing that any of these techniques do is to not allow the plunger to travel fully into the seat which will allow some fluid to bypass. Is this correct?
Pretty much, yes.

I had a friend who runs a CNC machine, make me some of the shims just like the ones sold on EBay. Except mine cost me a lot less. If anyone wants one send me a PM. They will cost you 10 bucks, and that includes shipping to the lower 48, but it does not include the replacement bolts, because you can get them cheaper than I can mail them to you.
 

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Forget the O'ring. A rubber or plastic or other material soft o ring will compress with very little time . They are not made for that purpose, they are made to sit in a groove or slot and seal. Compress them and they take a set very quickly and cease to function.

A physical no compressing washer, shim, nickel, file off the plunger, whatever, you choose, but the o ring may work for a week or so, then you will be back to square one.

Kit
 

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I fix things for a living, from plumbing to a bike for a friend, but no living off fixing bike, other than a good time, a beer or two and some nonsense. :joke:

Problem with an O,ring under steady and repetive compression is it does take a set and will not continue to function. It is designed to be a seal and that is about it. Some will not withstand oil, or brake fluid, so you do have to pick those that will, others will not take the sunlight and quickly crack and deteriorate.

I have the perfect fix, a member on this site told me about using two little washers under and between the two halves of the anti dive gadget.

So I trotted off to Napa and got two small copper washers that will just fit between the two halves of the thing, naturally this leaves a gap so water and dirt can enter........so I placed an O ring around the top section, one that just fits, so now when the sections are bolted back together the o ring does compress enough to seal out the weather, but the washers do not allow it to compess too far, so now you have a good secure fix , with a weather seal.

This really does take most of the harshness out of the front end, not all of it, but a good majority of it. Makes a nice ride actually.

Does not totally disable it either, front will dive about 3/4 or an inch or so during an emergency stop and then the gadget works as it should.

This also takes the constant stress and tear off the left fork and the seals. And if you do choose to carefully use the front brake in a rough curve....not that you should, but sometimes it is cool......no more crowhopping around the corner.

Best .27 cent fix I have ever seen.

Kit

Oh the fellow who asked about what is the proper torque on the two allen head bolts.......well just secure, do not sweat the small stuff.....as a rule of thumb with any allen head bolt, small like that, I use a standard allen wrench.....no not a T handle that you can strip heads out with, just a regular allen, and when you see the shank of the allen just start to flex.....that is enough.
Hi Kit,
I know it has been a while since you did this fix on your wing.
DO you have any idea how thick the washers were that you used?
Would you do it different now than when you did the fix the first time?
Thanks
Denver
 

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Sorry to post a question in the "how-to" section, but an important question goes unanswered here:

WHY DOES THE ANTI-DIVE PLUNGER STICK?

Does it mechanically bind up internally inside the anti-dive actuator valve, or does the plunger stick in the hole in the receiver side because of an interference fit problem? Or, is it a fluid dynamics issue?

Can anyone answer that question with authority?

If you don't know WHY it's sticking, it's really hard to take the proper corrective action?

Thanks!

.
 

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Hi Kit,
I know it has been a while since you did this fix on your wing.
DO you have any idea how thick the washers were that you used?
Would you do it different now than when you did the fix the first time?
Thanks
Denver
No never measured them. They were copper washers out of a Carb repair kit at Napa Auto parts. I just took the allen bolts with me and got a washer that fit them perfectly and where the outside diameter of the washers would also fit within the design of the anti dive housing.

Different..........yea, I would have taken the time to find a good O ring. to use to seal the small gap between the halves the washers create, as the one I used was rotten in about two months.

You could just use silicone. That will withstand the sun and wind and rain and such much better. O rings do not seem to like the sunlight.

A standard E clip such as what Fred came up with, about that thickness.

I suppose each bike could vary too, so get four and if not happy use two on each side.
 

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Anti-dive fix

Kit,
Thanks very much for the quick reply. I have the basic idea of what's needed and will proceed from there. I'll look for a suitable seal in place of the o-ring before I get into it though.
Thanks again
Denver
 

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Sorry to post a question in the "how-to" section, but an important question goes unanswered here:

WHY DOES THE ANTI-DIVE PLUNGER STICK?

Does it mechanically bind up internally inside the anti-dive actuator valve, or does the plunger stick in the hole in the receiver side because of an interference fit problem? Or, is it a fluid dynamics issue?

Can anyone answer that question with authority?

If you don't know WHY it's sticking, it's really hard to take the proper corrective action?

Thanks!

.
Aledgedly .... there are two oils used brake fluid and fork fluid ... and the material used for the seals is only ok for one fluid. The other causes the material to expand and cause sticking.

I cant believe after 4 or so years this is still an issue.

Nigel.
 

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Best thing I did to the GW was cut the plunger off with a cutoff wheel. The nickel trick never did a thing. It feels way better, and I don't feel it diving much at all in a panic stop..:shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #29

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I agree Walter.. The bike is an 02 and I never changed the brake or clutch fluid until now. The clutch was fine but the brake fluid was milky and watery in the glass jar.
I disagree with the posts about using brake fluid that was opened. If it was so bad, then opening the master to add the fluid would be equally bad. As long as the opened fluid has a cap on it....It should be fine.
The anti-dive pissed me off for the last 9 years and I finally have a bike to ride that feels great!!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I agree Walter.. The bike is an 02 and I never changed the brake or clutch fluid until now. The clutch was fine but the brake fluid was milky and watery in the glass jar.
I disagree with the posts about using brake fluid that was opened. If it was so bad, then opening the master to add the fluid would be equally bad. As long as the opened fluid has a cap on it....It should be fine.
The anti-dive pissed me off for the last 9 years and I finally have a bike to ride that feels great!!
:thumbup:
 
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Re:- anti dive fix

Hi Wing One
I thought you aught to know I've updated the anti dive fix page,you might want to add it to your main page.
Cheers
:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hi Wing One
I thought you aught to know I've updated the anti dive fix page,you might want to add it to your main page.
Cheers
:cool:
Thank you, I will check it out, :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hi Wing One
I thought you aught to know I've updated the anti dive fix page,you might want to add it to your main page.
Cheers
:cool:
g18, can you please post a link to the page you're referring to, Thanks.
 

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I disagree with the posts about using brake fluid that was opened. If it was so bad, then opening the master to add the fluid would be equally bad. As long as the opened fluid has a cap on it....It should be fine.
The difference is that the master cylinder has a bellows that pushes out the air above the fluid. It takes a little time for the water in the air to be absorbed, the water in the air in the opened brake fluid can has all the time it needs.

Just another of the many small things where you can do things right, like adding only freshly opened brake fluid, or maybe get away with doing them wrong. I work on my own bike so I know things are done right. not so I can get away with stuff. Brake fluid is cheap.
 

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I'm sorry to zombie this thread, but I bought an F6B last week, and I think I'm having an ADV issue. All the reviews say that the GW is a super plush ride, great soft suspension. Mine's not. It's a 2016 leftover, 0 miles, under warranty.

My bike has rough suspension. I feel a lot of jarring through the bars at most any speed when I hit minor bumps, especially on the freeway. I'm also experiencing some pogo effect between 35 and 40 mph. I dropped it off at the dealership today for warranty work. They told me that they rode it around and didn't experience any of the symptoms I've described, so I don't have high hopes that they'll fix it. I even told them to check the ADV.

I'd like to know more about the shims and gasket you guys you guys described in this thread, most notably Kit Carson's, wherein he shimmed the bolts and used an o-ring to seal the gap. You say it doesn't disable the ADV, just tweaks it, right? I'd like to know if after all this time you still use this mod? Did you ever find a gasket material that worked better, or are you still using o-rings? How long did the o-rings hold up? Any other info you can provide? I have a feeling I'm going to be looking for a solution to this problem myself. The dealer's service department didn't seem like they had any interest in finding or fixing the problem.
 

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I'm sorry to zombie this thread, but I bought an F6B last week, and I think I'm having an ADV issue. All the reviews say that the GW is a super plush ride, great soft suspension. Mine's not. It's a 2016 leftover, 0 miles, under warranty.

My bike has rough suspension. I feel a lot of jarring through the bars at most any speed when I hit minor bumps, especially on the freeway. I'm also experiencing some pogo effect between 35 and 40 mph. I dropped it off at the dealership today for warranty work. They told me that they rode it around and didn't experience any of the symptoms I've described, so I don't have high hopes that they'll fix it. I even told them to check the ADV.

I'd like to know more about the shims and gasket you guys you guys described in this thread, most notably Kit Carson's, wherein he shimmed the bolts and used an o-ring to seal the gap. You say it doesn't disable the ADV, just tweaks it, right? I'd like to know if after all this time you still use this mod? Did you ever find a gasket material that worked better, or are you still using o-rings? How long did the o-rings hold up? Any other info you can provide? I have a feeling I'm going to be looking for a solution to this problem myself. The dealer's service department didn't seem like they had any interest in finding or fixing the problem.
I just sent you a PM, also see this thread I started a few days ago, here https://gl1800riders.com/forums/5-g...p-anti-dive-system-have-couple-questions.html
 
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I'm sorry to zombie this thread, but I bought an F6B last week, and I think I'm having an ADV issue. All the reviews say that the GW is a super plush ride, great soft suspension. Mine's not. It's a 2016 leftover, 0 miles, under warranty.

My bike has rough suspension. I feel a lot of jarring through the bars at most any speed when I hit minor bumps, especially on the freeway. I'm also experiencing some pogo effect between 35 and 40 mph. I dropped it off at the dealership today for warranty work. They told me that they rode it around and didn't experience any of the symptoms I've described, so I don't have high hopes that they'll fix it. I even told them to check the ADV.
As time went on, GL1800s had 3 service bulletins regarding rear brake lockup. Honda finally figured out that the issue was caused by owners not following their maintenance schedule. Basically the brake and clutch fluid gets dirty, and can cause blockage. Although a few had problems with their ADV valve, and those were covered under warranty, the majority of ADV issues are self inflected from a lack of brake fluid changes. Also, most ADV problems were of the earlier design (2001-05).

The easiest way to test your ADV is to remove your front fender and nylon tie your caliper covers in place. Unbolt the ADV, and nylon tie it to the outside of the left fork slider and go for a ride. Any difference ???

My guess would be that your ADV valve is fine and you notice no improvement. Be sure to check the simple stuff like air pressure in the tires. Incorrect air pressure can defiantly cause rough ride as well.

Also, speaking of maintenance, you should have the dealer's prep sheet from when you bought your Wing. Your sales invoice might even say that you'd paid for "delivery and prep." One copy of the prep sheet even says "customers copy." On that sheet it requires that the dealer change the brake fluid, prior to delivering the Wing to you. Possibly your Wing was not prepped correctly ... if not, it needs to be !!! If you don't have that sheet, I would ask the dealer for it. Attached is a dealer prep sheet from Canada. Sorry, I don't have one from the USA, but the requirements are probably similar. As you can see, if you Wing was NOS, and over 2 years old, certain fluids must be changed prior to you taking delivery of it. Hopefully as preventive maintenance, yours was service correctly prior to you picking it up.
 

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As time went on, GL1800s had 3 service bulletins regarding rear brake lockup. Honda finally figured out that the issue was caused by owners not following their maintenance schedule. Basically the brake and clutch fluid gets dirty, and can cause blockage. Although a few had problems with their ADV valve, and those were covered under warranty, the majority of ADV issues are self inflected from a lack of brake fluid changes. Also, most ADV problems were of the earlier design (2001-05).

The easiest way to test your ADV is to remove your front fender and nylon tie your caliper covers in place. Unbolt the ADV, and nylon tie it to the outside of the left fork slider and go for a ride. Any difference ???

My guess would be that your ADV valve is fine and you notice no improvement. Be sure to check the simple stuff like air pressure in the tires. Incorrect air pressure can defiantly cause rough ride as well.

Also, speaking of maintenance, you should have the dealer's prep sheet from when you bought your Wing. Your sales invoice might even say that you'd paid for "delivery and prep." One copy of the prep sheet even says "customers copy." On that sheet it requires that the dealer change the brake fluid, prior to delivering the Wing to you. Possibly your Wing was not prepped correctly ... if not, it needs to be !!! If you don't have that sheet, I would ask the dealer for it. Attached is a dealer prep sheet from Canada. Sorry, I don't have one from the USA, but the requirements are probably similar. As you can see, if you Wing was NOS, and over 2 years old, certain fluids must be changed prior to you taking delivery of it. Hopefully as preventive maintenance, yours was service correctly prior to you picking it up.
Wow, they are required to replace the fluids?! I will definitely call them and try to get that prep sheet. If the brake fluid wasn't replaced, I definitely want it replaced.What about the clutch fluid?

I did the nickel trick to disable the ADV, and you are correct. There was no discernible difference in the short ride I took. I am, however, experiencing a problem that I believe is caused by a warped tire. I believe that the tires sitting stationary under a 900lb bike caused an issue. I contacted Honda via e-mail today. Here's what I wrote. Do you think I was too demanding, or snippy? Be honest. I always try to be as polite as possible when dealing with issues like this, but I also always believe I get a raw deal, so I attempted to be more assertive. I hope I didn't come off as an ass.

"Hello Honda,

I purchased a 2016 Leftover F6B on Thursday, 9.19.19. It was a "new" bike, 0 miles. Upon the first ride home, I discovered what I assume to be a bubble in the front tire. The bike has a rhythmic lobbing jump in the front end between 20-24mph, and even worse between 35-43mph. The entire front end jumps up and down, but not randomly, as if from bumps, but instead in a rhythmic oscillation, which is obviously caused by either an unbalanced tire, or a tire with a flat-spot or warp in it. When I reach 65-70mph, the front end has a very jarring vibration, especially when I hit small road bumps. If it isn't simply a balance issue, I think the tires may have taken a warp to them from sitting in the crate under the weight of the 900lb motorcycle for 4 years. I took it to the dealership at 250 miles to get them to fix it, but they rode it and said there was no problem. I don't know how they didn't see the problem; I was very explicit in the description of the problem, and what speeds to ride to find it. I don't think they even checked the tire balance, I'm extremely displeased with the service I received. When I asked them how to proceed to fix the problem, they told me that I could contact Honda directly, so here we are. Please contact the dealership and authorize them to replace the tires. I fear that the tires that are on the bike pose a significant safety hazard, and moreover, every time I ride the bike, I become seriously agitated with the quality of the ride. I hope you'll do what's right to get my new bike running properly. Please call me on the phone number I provided above, I'd love to discuss this issue with you directly.

I'll provide the dealership's information below, however, if you can recommend another authorized Honda warranty service center in my area, I'd rather visit them, as I don't have confidence in the service department that I've already visited.

For what it’s worth, I’ve been loyal to the Honda brand. This is my 4th Honda motorcycle, I purchased a Shadow in 2003, another Shadow in 2018, a Rebel this year, and now this F6B, all brand new at the dealership. I love the brand, and I’m confident that my Honda will provide better service to me at lower maintenance cost than the Harley Davidson I chose the F6B over when shopping for this last bike. I’ve never had an issue with any of my bikes yet. I understand the tire issue I’m experiencing with my new F6B is unavoidable in a situation like this, and in no way reflects upon the quality of a Honda motorcycle. However, how you handle this warranty claim will provide valuable information to me about Honda as a company. If I have to fight tooth and nail to get you guys to do what’s right, it will definitely have a negative impact on my likelihood to buy a new Goldwing in the future.

Thank you for your time,"


Anyway, thanks for the valuable information.

Edit: I see the highlighted portion of the service sheet you attached, no clutch fluid. I was worried about the oil, so I changed it to full synthetic at 450 miles. I wouldn't ordinarily do that, but I was getting concerned that I was riding around on 4 year old oil...
 

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As for dealer prep ... the prep sheet is very informative as to what is required prior to a dealer delivering your Wing to you. If you check it, I believe clutch fluid, brake fluid, and coolant are all included.

As for your email, yes a little snippy, but I'm sure they read ones like yours all day long. However, you should know that they will only do what is required to resolve your issue. The fact that you think your tire is unsafe, are your feelings and not theirs. If they find that your tire is unsafe, then they will replace it. The way you are describing your issue to me sounds like a tire issue, but our opinions do not matter. What matters is what they find. If they find something defective, absolutely they will fix it ... if they can reproduce your complaint, Honda will stand behind their product. Honda will probably also tell you that there are other dealers out there, and if you are not happy with the one you bought from, go find another.

You will probably get a call from a Honda Customer Care rep tomorrow. Usually the conversation starts with .... "OH gee, I am so sorry to hear that. On a new m/c, I've never heard of any one having a tire issue before." They are well trained at conveying compassion.
 
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