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Discussion Starter #1
I have one of those 2012s that veers right and wobbles. I can fix the wobble (probably) with a new front tire, All Balls and a torque wrench. Is there a solution for veering right?

Will MonoTubes and a Rocky Tree fix the veering/drifting right problem? Would a fork brace help hold everything straight?

The dealer has already tried kicking the front tire, adjusting the front axle, torquing the rear swing arm and more. All they did was give me a wobble (they must have thought the veering problem was from over tight steeing stem beaings).

Has anyone actually fixed a '12 that veers right?

Thanks.
 

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I have yet to hear a solution. Mine too has this problem. My 2005 and 2007s were straight as an arrow with no hands on the handlebars. This one wants to make a hard left.
 

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This is from an old thread - maybe it will help. I'm just passing the info on, haven't tried it myself. Now I'm not sure how the top parts of the fork tube effect alignment of the bottom tube, as the upper and lower can rotate independently from each other. I can see if the triple tree is twisted, or one tube is higher than the other it would cause a cant to the wheel and possibly cause a pull to one side. Anyhow - there are smarter people on this board than me - I'll listen to what they have to say.

Gravedigger – how to adjust your front forks
The problem is common, and completely correctable ... with patience!

The issue is that when the bike was assembled the fork tubes were not perfectly aligned before the triple tree was tightened down. the wheel will still mount, but the bike will pull, to either the left or right, depending on how the fork tubes were positioned.

If you take your bike to a place (a stone wall or the corner of a building, etc.) you can adjust the fork tubes to get rid of the pull. You can also do this with a large rubber mallet and a trusted friend, since someone needs to apply opposing force to the handlebars.

You have to slightly loosen the bolts on the triple tree that grip the fork tubes. There are four bolts, one upper and one lower on each side. Loosen them only slightly so that a good thump will cause them to rotate, but the fork tubes are still too tight to rotate by hand.

Now roll your bike up to the chosen "thumper" and position your front wheel so that when you turn the handlebars quickly, ONLY the front tire hits the obstruction (don't bash your fender or wheel covers into the thumper!) Or you can use your rubber mallet. It is best to put the bike into gear or use your foot to lock the rear brake so the bike doesn't roll forward during the adjustment process. A friend could use wood blocks or something to prevent the bike from rolling. Also, you'll want to hit the front wheel at about the 2-o-clock position, not the 3-o-clock position. this is because you need your "thump force" to create a twist in order to rotate the forks. Using the forward-most area of the front tire will not give you the desired results.

If you bike pulls to the right, it means the alignment of the front tire in relation to the fork tubes is slightly to the LEFT causing the bike to want to turn to the right just as when you ride, if you press slightly on the right grip (rotating the wheel slightly to the LEFT) the bike will try to turn right. The solution is to "THUMP" your tire against the thumper with a quick and forceful turn of the handlebars, or a sharp thump with the mallet. This will cause the wheel to rotate the fork tubes by a few thousandths of an inch. Two or three thumps should do it. now TIGHTEN the triple tree bolts again, and take the bike for a test ride.

If your bike now pulls to the LEFT when you let go of the handlebars, you thumped the tubes too far, and you'll have to do it again, this time thumping the other side of the wheel a bit.

This can be done quickly with practice, but plan to spend about 2 hours doing this. Each time you "thump" the adjustment (rotate the tubes a bit left or right) and tighten the triple tree bolts again, it will require a test ride to know the results.

When you can let go of the handlebars and the bike doesn't pull to the left or right, you have found the sweet spot!

It is important to note that you DO NOT loosen the axle bolts or anything near the wheels. All of the adjustment is done at the triple tree to take the left or right pull out of a set of forks.

You are not bending the fork tubes. You are only rotating them in the triple tree to change their center line relationship with the center line of the wheel. Essentially, you are doing a front end alignment!

|/| will cause the bike to pull to the left
|\| will cause the bike to pull to the right.

||| is what you are striving for!

Remember to tighten the four bolts before each test ride.

Good luck!

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for that, but I already tried GraveDigger's procedure twice and the dealer tried it once. No joy. Maybe putting in Progresive Monotubes will magically fix the problem if it is caused by the tubes being in twisted.

Fork tubes out + Monotubes into forks + Fork tubes back into triple clamps = Magical fix.

:shrug:

Might be worth a try.
 

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My 08 did the same along with the wobble. Fork rebuild and proper front tire install as per the service manual helped a lot, it returned just before the forks seal went again. Short story I finally ran across a dealer who knew what they were doing. Wobble and the need for it to drift right were gone. It too 3 rebuilds and a lot of fussing over it. When a bike has to have forks rebuilt every 15K or so miles, something is wrong even though it all fell into "spec". Of course you could always,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Stop letting go of the handlebars.
:wrong:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So, a fork rebuild and new tire MIGHT fix it.
 

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Just put 25# of tools in your left saddlebag and all will be well. Everyone will think you can fix anything too. :)
 

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New tire may or may not help. The final rebuild stopped mine. The prior two improved it for a while. Mine was notorious for blowing fork seals and very sensitive to the front tire install. The forks are the weakest link in a GW that I had to deal with.

The third build was nice and ended up being what I thought a Wing should handle like, but it wasn't enough to overcome the other things I didn't care for. I ended up trading her off. I like the new ride, but really miss the Wing power train, almost too much.

Cheers
 

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The first thing I would check on any bike that is pulling in one direction would be to see if a harness, hose, or cable from the handlebars is tight and exerting a pull on the bars. It doesn't take much force to from a hose or cable to cause a pull. I also think the added stiffener on the 2012 lower triple clamp may make the bike more sensitive to anything that is pulling on it. The GL1800 has a ton of wire harnesses coming off the handlebars, as well as brake and clutch hoses and throttle cables.

Jack up the front end and work the bars full lock to lock, and see if the front wheel will stay straight ahead when you put it there.
 

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New tire may or may not help. The final rebuild stopped mine. The prior two improved it for a while. Mine was notorious for blowing fork seals and very sensitive to the front tire install. The forks are the weakest link in a GW that I had to deal with.

The third build was nice and ended up being what I thought a Wing should handle like, but it wasn't enough to overcome the other things I didn't care for. I ended up trading her off. I like the new ride, but really miss the Wing power train, almost too much.

Cheers
If it was blowing fork seals, it sounds as if something was definately binding in the tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The first thing I would check on any bike that is pulling in one direction would be to see if a harness, hose, or cable from the handlebars is tight and exerting a pull on the bars ... Jack up the front end and work the bars full lock to lock, and see if the front wheel will stay straight ahead when you put it there.
Fred Harmon is a mechanical genius!

I took the bike out for a ride, stopped for ice cream (not Dairy Queen), had the Misses sit on the back of the bike and guess what? Ayup! With the front tire off the ground, I moved the bars back and forth. The bars moved freely to the left, bound up a bit on the last 1-2 inches of movement with turning to the right. When I centered the bars and LET GO, they immediately moved 1/2" left. Remember counter steering! That would make the bike move immediately to the RIGHT.

Holy Fudge Sunday, Cruiseman!

That's probably the whole problem right there. Now, I just need to sort out what's binding. I'm planning to have the bike into the shop to install a trailer hitch and All Balls next weekend (maybe a Rocky Tree too). They should be able to sort out the cabling and fix the lunging problem too. Let's hope so!

Thanks so much Cruiseman. Buy those Gold Wing videos here, folks!
 

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Pick the left fork up in the tribble tree a MM over the right. If it does not correct the problem go for another MM. If you do not see a difference with that you have a tire alignment issue.
 

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I had / had the same issue with my '08 that Fred described. What I found was that I ALWAYS parked the bike with the bars turned full left. This caused the cables around the triple tree to take a permanent set in that direction. Like Cruiseman said, when I elevated the front, the tire would turn to the left when I took it to center and let go.

I simply made it a habit to park with the front wheel turned slightly to the right and it seems to have improved my pull significantly. I believe that it is actually the relatively stiff throttle cables that are causing this and it makes me wonder if the problem would still be an issue if this were a ride by wire throttle system?
 

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similar

I just serviced the forks on my 01 that I bought recently. It would center and I didn't have any pulling issues, but I knew there was binding at turn extremes. So when I put it back together I pulled the throttle cables out of the recess in the bar and just zip-tied them to the outside of the bars. No more binding.

Richard
 

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My '04 wobbled and pulled left, All Balls, Traxxion, different tires etc, etc, nothing helped. My '10 ABS rides blissfully straight and true, what a joy and it is all stock.

wish I could be more help, but my advice is don't spend a lot of money on it, chances are it is the frame. Another person on this site had all the same problems you and I and others have/had, and he solved it by paying for an entire new frame. Probably taking pot luck chance that it would solve your problem.

Best solution? trade it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I ALWAYS parked the bike with the bars turned full left. This caused the cables around the triple tree to take a permanent set in that direction.
Mine won't LOCK if I turn the bars to the right. Aren't they all like that? Or do you just leave it unlocked, but turned to the right?
 

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Mine won't LOCK if I turn the bars to the right. Aren't they all like that? Or do you just leave it unlocked, but turned to the right?
I'm almost positive that my '09 will lock in full right position. Do you have handlebar risers installed?
 

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if someone has been into the top end
and now it pulls one way or the other,
chances are one of the many cables that that go over the top of the tree are mis-routed.

The shop manual has some good pics of how they should be routed.

Dennis
 

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Test ride any bike before you purchase it. If it veers, wobbles or does anything strange things you may need the gentleman below to fix it :eek:4:. If the bike veers don't purchase it. I rode both my 09 & 12 prior to purchasing and neither has had any of the above problems or required fixes for the same :shrug:.



He touches your bike and it falls over. When you stand it up it is all fixed :joke:.
 
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