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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2018 DCT.

OK....trying to get these 2 10mm bolts out. First time for me. COULD be they came this way from the factory 3 years ago. One new set of tires put on the bike. My guess is that the shop that put the new tires on ( local shop ) did not overtighten them. But, who knows ?? I would imagine the shop had a lift to drop the rear tire. No lift for me, only the centerstand.
So, I'm pretty sure this bracket must come off.

I cannot budge these two bolts. One on each side. And I MAY have already stripped them just a bit. I tried to be very careful while twisting. The bolts in questio show up in the middle of one of my pictures.

Any ideas before I ride the bike to the local shop tomorrow ( closed Mondays ) just to have them remove these bolts ??

Thanks,

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Although I don't have an '18, maybe spray a little penetrating oil first & then a 6 pt. socket. If that fails, or you're not comfortable doing that, it doesn't HAVE to be a M/C shop that can take these off........Just sayin'
Thanks. The penetrating oil is working as we write. Boy, I've tried a box wrench, a 6 point wrench and some other thingy that just slips onto the bolt. The biggest problem as far as I can tell is that a box wrench and the 6 pointer can BARELY get into that spot.

I could be wrong...............I'm thinking Fred ( videos ) may have had the same problem the FIRST time because as detailed as he is, he skips his video to say "I've already broken the bolts
loose...... ." After that, he continues. I thought nothing of that until I tried to get the bolts off myself. I'm thinking he may have had a hard time loosening them too.

Now....."it doesn't HAVE to be a motorcycle shop .... ?" Where, pray tell, would one go to ?? Do you mean a machine shop ??

Thanks.
 

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Tighten a smidge, then loosen. Tightening could break them loose if they are frozen. The first time I took mine off, and subsequent times, I had no issues.

Alternatively, a little penetrating oil might help, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tighten a smidge, then loosen. Tightening could break them loose if they are frozen. The first time I took mine off, and subsequent times, I had no issues.

Alternatively, a little penetrating oil might help, too.
Yikes !! Tighten it a bit more ?? I'll try anything at this point. Hadn't thought of that. Certainly worth a try. I'll let you know.

Thanks !!

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If you need more room remove the rear panels of the saddlebags. Pathfinder has instructions on how to remove them with there new rear lights. It is easy
 

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It is unusual to strip threads when removing (CCW). If it is the heads you have rounded a bit, make sure you are using ONLY 6 point socket. Bullet Bob's suggestion is SOP and in cases like this I recommend an electric impact like the little Makita that Waldo once presented here or even a newer more powerful one, but take it easy on the trigger so as not to snap the head off. If rounded too much for even the 6 point socket, I would drill the heads off and replace with same size bolts from local hardware supply. Do let the penetrant soak for several hours, Kroil, Liquid wrench, or mix of automatic trans mission fluid and acetone. Hold yer tongue "just so" and squint yer left eye while applying torque to loosen, LOL.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Who works on your car(s)?
Oooooh........ I may try that too. He ( the guy that works on my cars ) is also close to me. Maybe 3 miles or so.

Thanks !!!

p.s. see ?? This is why I'm a # 2. Sometimes common sense stuff doesn't enter my stupid head because my brain is stuck in "auto/motorcycle" world. I have to take my own advice and think outside the box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you need more room remove the rear panels of the saddlebags. Pathfinder has instructions on how to remove them with there new rear lights. It is easy
You're losing me. Pathfinder ?? Coincidentally, I do own a Pathfinder. But, I'm talking 2018 Goldwing here.

But, thank you for your effort !!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It is unusual to strip threads when removing (CCW). If it is the heads you have rounded a bit, make sure you are using ONLY 6 point socket. Bullet Bob's suggestion is SOP and in cases like this I recommend an electric impact like the little Makita that Waldo once presented here or even a newer more powerful one, but take it easy on the trigger so as not to snap the head off. If rounded too much for even the 6 point socket, I would drill the heads off and replace with same size bolts from local hardware supply. Do let the penetrant soak for several hours, Kroil, Liquid wrench, or mix of automatic trans mission fluid and acetone. Hold yer tongue "just so" and squint yer left eye while applying torque to loosen, LOL.

prs
CCW........... I'll take your word for it. But, they won't budge !!!!
 

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You're losing me. Pathfinder ?? Coincidentally, I do own a Pathfinder. But, I'm talking 2018 Goldwing here.

But, thank you for your effort !!!!!!
SoCalMoto makes Pathfinder Lights. These are high quality lights. Wh=ith there new rear lights that go just above the exhaust pipes they have instructions on how to remove the rear panels of the saddle bags.
 

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The only other alternative that has not been mentioned so far is heat. Heat has always worked for me on seized fasteners or bearings in wells.

The problem is the proximity to the saddlebags. The solution might be concentrated heat from a high temp soldering gun/iron except there is a lot of metal mass and the gun/iron would take an extended period of time to heat things up sufficiently.

Another alternative would be a pin point butane torch providing you put a heat shield between the frame and the saddlebag. Or, remove the saddle bag and then take a stab at applying heat.

Or, hit it with an arc welder rod after protecting the plastic from splatter.
 
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The only other alternative that has not been mentioned so far is heat. Heat has always worked for me on seized fasteners or bearings in wells.
Heat yes. Then cold water over the heated fastener. Several cycles of hot/cold then the compact impact wrench mentioned above. If that doesn’t work……
 

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If cold is something you would like to try, a blast of refrigerant from a one pound air conditioner recharging can would be a good source of cold.
 
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I like the Nikita drill, set to 16 and not "drill" idea. The shock of the impacts should break it loose. I use mine for driving in (after starting by hand) and removing my 2010 seat bolts (set to 16, not "drill").
 

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If you need to change the tire & don't want to hammer up the rear components you can ALWAYS lay the wing on it's side and change out the tire like MANY of us do.. Simple quick & easy... Just saying '' also along with all the other good ideas above a solder gun on the nut to heat it up (expand) may work. Good luck and let us know what does work....
 

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In case anyone is wondering..... The "impact" number settings on a Makita drill (or other drills with 1-## - bit settings) are rotational impacts, not "into the part" impacts of a traditional impact driver. The higher the number, the higher rotation impact on the bolt/nut. There will be no "hammer up" impact to anything. Even using my Makita to run in my 2010 seat bolts on "16" does not get the bolts totally tight once it starts "popping", but if I let it go longer, it will get it there. Instead, I finish off with my wrench so I can feel just how tight it ends up. For removal of something way too tight, you just need to let it "pop" in several seconds bursts until it comes off. An air impact "gun" (used at tire shops) does the same, but is more force capable for the rotational impact. I would only use one of those to remove the most stubborn bolts but never install unless it is the rear lug nuts. But I don't think I could get one in there behind the muffler to do that. The Makita is not able to use as much force as an air impact tool.
 

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In case anyone is wondering..... The "impact" number settings on a Nikita drill (or other drills with 1-## - bit settings) are rotational impacts, not "into the part" impacts of a traditional impact driver. The higher the number, the higher rotation impact on the bolt/nut. There will be no "hammer up" impact to anything. Even using my Nikita to run in my 2010 seat bolts on "16" does not get the bolts totally tight once it starts "popping", but if I let it go longer, it will get it there. Instead, I finish off with my wrench so I can feel just how tight it ends up. For removal of something way too tight, you just need to let it "pop" in several seconds bursts until it comes off. An air impact "gun" (used at tire shops) does the same, but is more force capable for the rotational impact. I would only use one of those to remove the most stubborn bolts but never install unless it is the rear lug nuts. But I don't think I could get one in there behind the muffler to do that. The Nikita is not able to use as much force as an air impact tool.
Nikita or Makita?
 
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