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I have the cig lighter socket in my left fairing pocket. Want to power a heated vest and insoles, total requirement is 5.7 amps. Seems like only a marginal increase over the rated 5A fuse and am considering swapping the fuse for a 7.5 amp. I understand the fuse is to protect the wiring, but there is surely a safety factor built in and presumably the ambient temp will be low when I am using heated gear. The simplicity and reversibility of it is appealing and as I live in FL, I expect not to use it often. Any thoughts?
 

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No! Use a relay circuit.

prs
 

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DSI Keeper
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What PR said. There is very very little extra factor in the wing's wiring. I run mine right off the battery. Not an issue about forgetting to turn off heated gear as you almost always disconnect when dismounting.
 

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The low rated fuse is not the problem.
It's there to protect the small gauge wiring.

Heated clothing should always be wired directly to the battery.

Barney
 

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I wired my trailer lights through the ACC. It is a Hannigan with the standard Wing tail lights. I don't know how much power they draw. I was going to see if the 5 amp would be OK, if not I was going to wire it different. I blew the 5 amp fuse doing the install and replaced it with a 7.5 until I could go get a 5...that was 2 years ago, I had forgot until reading this thread. I guess I need to go get a 5.
 

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I wired my trailer lights through the ACC. It is a Hannigan with the standard Wing tail lights. I don't know how much power they draw. I was going to see if the 5 amp would be OK, if not I was going to wire it different. I blew the 5 amp fuse doing the install and replaced it with a 7.5 until I could go get a 5...that was 2 years ago, I had forgot until reading this thread. I guess I need to go get a 5.

You can read exactly what amperage is going through your fused circuit using the "Fuse Buddy" shown on the link below. Amazon has them cheaper. I have both the 20 AMP & 30 AMP versions but the 20 is usually plenty for the wing. It works on regular & mini fuse sockets.
You are working in the danger zone and getting away with it. Most recommend the fuse be sized to handle 80% of the wires capacity, weakest link like connector pins etc or less unless you like fire and smoke $$$$$:22yikes:.

http://www.esitest.com/fuse_buddy.html

Scroll down to Fuse Opening Time in the link below. It may scare you knowing Honda tends to skimp on wire sizing :eek:4:.

http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm
 

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Buckfan, you are living on borrowed time. Correct that wiring before you are sorry you did not.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Goldwing+fire

prs
I tested the amps:

Running lights: 2.4 AMPS
Brakes applied: 5.3 AMPS

Just barely over the 5 AMP fuse (I actually put in a 5 amp fuse and it was not blown) but I figure if I'm pulling the trailer, hit the brakes and have our phones plugged in, I'd probably push 7.5 amps...So, I'm going to replace the trailer bulbs with LED bulbs and ride. You see any issues with doing it that way instead of rewiring the hitch?
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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I tested the amps:

Running lights: 2.4 AMPS
Brakes applied: 5.3 AMPS

Just barely over the 5 AMP fuse (I actually put in a 5 amp fuse and it was not blown) but I figure if I'm pulling the trailer, hit the brakes and have our phones plugged in, I'd probably push 7.5 amps...So, I'm going to replace the trailer bulbs with LED bulbs and ride. You see any issues with doing it that way instead of rewiring the hitch?
LEDs will work nicely.
 

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fuse buddy

Howdy Y'all,
I'm looking at the FUSE BUDDY meter. I want to make sure I order the right one.
Am I correct in thinking all fuses on the '03 GL1800 are the standard ATC size?
Although I don't have one yet, I'm thinking the Eastern Beaver PC8 uses the MINI ATM style fuses.
Your input appreciated...
WINGZ
:?::?:
 

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I agree with TechDude, seems like a plan. Take a final reading and let us know what you are pulling with the LED bulbs and all else on that circuit. Pulling just a little over will get you along OK usually due to only intermittent use; until you get tired and let your boot ride the brake peddle just enough so that your brake lights stay on or until that micro switch sticks and keeps them on. Then the heat builds and ..........

prs
 

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I wired my trailer lights through the ACC. It is a Hannigan with the standard Wing tail lights. I don't know how much power they draw. I was going to see if the 5 amp would be OK, if not I was going to wire it different. I blew the 5 amp fuse doing the install and replaced it with a 7.5 until I could go get a 5...that was 2 years ago, I had forgot until reading this thread. I guess I need to go get a 5.
I smell smoke...
 

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Howdy Y'all,
I'm looking at the FUSE BUDDY meter. I want to make sure I order the right one.
Am I correct in thinking all fuses on the '03 GL1800 are the standard ATC size?
Although I don't have one yet, I'm thinking the Eastern Beaver PC8 uses the MINI ATM style fuses.
Your input appreciated...
WINGZ
:?::?:
You can put a MINI ATM fuse into a large ATO socket without mishap. You cannot put a large ATO fuse into a MINI ATM fuse socket period. Go with the MINI ATM tester and it will be good for both sizes.
 

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Howdy Y'all,
I'm looking at the FUSE BUDDY meter. I want to make sure I order the right one.
Am I correct in thinking all fuses on the '03 GL1800 are the standard ATC size?
Although I don't have one yet, I'm thinking the Eastern Beaver PC8 uses the MINI ATM style fuses.
Your input appreciated...
WINGZ
:?::?:
I have the 302M that is for mini fuses. This is the 20A model & plenty for Work on the Wing.

I also have the 305M that is for mini fuses. This is the 30A model & also works well for Work on the Wing.

Both from Amazon.

As Waldo mentioned they both work on the large ATO fuses :thumbup:.
 

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PS: How to use a relay. >CLICK ME<

:fullsize:

:fullsize:
basicrelay.jpg
 

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I agree with TechDude, seems like a plan. Take a final reading and let us know what you are pulling with the LED bulbs and all else on that circuit. Pulling just a little over will get you along OK usually due to only intermittent use; until you get tired and let your boot ride the brake peddle just enough so that your brake lights stay on or until that micro switch sticks and keeps them on. Then the heat builds and ..........

prs

The Hannigan has 6 lights, 2 side marker lights, two turn signal lights and 2 tail/brake lights. I only replaced the tail/brake lights with LED, other 4 are incandescent lights. Here are the results.

1.5 AMPS with running lights
1.83 AMPS with brakes applied
2.3 AMPS with phone charging and brakes applied
5.2 AMPS with brakes applied, phone charging and emergency flashers on.

I think I'm good, I'll replace other lights with LED as they blow.

Here are the lights I bought:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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IronMan
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JUST DUCTAPE A PENNY BETWEEN THE POSTS !:eek:4: DONT NEED NO DAM FUSE :shrug::shrug::shrug::lol:
 

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Heated gear normally comes with a fused battery connecting wire, use it and tuck the plug up between the front of the seat and the shelter. It will only aw current when you're plugged in, and will unplug when you get off. ACC powered relay is even better. Leave that 5 amp fuse as it is.
 
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