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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This may have been posted in the past, but since I have seen several requests lately for battery meter info, both here and on the GWRRA Tech board, I thought I would pass on what I found.

I have checked out several LED, LCD, Digital and Analog, and conventional battery voltage/ condition meters to use on my 1800. The one I finally settled on is available at:

http://www.electricalconnection.com/met ... splays.htm

It is a single LED that changes color with voltage range. Simple, very small, easy to install, visible at night and doesn't require major mods or cutting big holes in your bikes cowling. One 1/4" hole is all that is required. It mounts under the left speaker and just to the right of the vent on 1500 or 1800's. All access to mount and wire it is through the left fairing compartment, which is a breeze to remove.

Motorcycle Consumer News did an evaluation with a lab quality voltmeter, and confirmed that it is accurate in the voltage ranges it displays, ie, Green=12V and up/Amber=11.5-11.9V/Red=Less than 11.5V.

It can be wired to display only with the key on, or direct to batt and therefore on all the time. (why would you do that?) It comes with good instructions for both GL1500 and 1800, or a generic motorcycle. All connectors and wiring included. All you need are wire crimpers.

Price is right - $24.95 +sh That is a whole bunch cheaper than anything else I have found.

I haven't installed mine yet, but it sure looks like it will tell me if my batt is up to charge, or if it needs charging, or if there is a problem with the charging system. That's all I need to know.

Oh Yeah! Also Great service from ElectricalConnection.Com :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well, I installed the battery monitor tonite, and I am replying to my own post with some clarifications. As usual, things are not always described by the maker in their installation instructions very accurately.

My installation was on my 02 1800. Instructions for the 1800 are incorrect in a couple places.

1. Installation in the location they recommend must be done very carefully as there are molded ribs under the cowl to the lower right of the left vent. There is room, but take care where you drill your 1/4" hole lest you drill into a rib. You could of course put it somewhere else. The photo of where to locate in their instructions leaves a lot to be desired.

2. They say connect to the red 3 pin male connector. The red connector is 2 pin, not 3, and it is female. Their stated color codes for the wires are correct. Dark Green and Light Green with black trace for Positive and Negative. You should use a male 2 pin Hitachi connector to really do it right, (not supplied), but I didn't want to bother ordering one, so I jury rigged a connection using modified spade connectors that should be fine. This 2 wire red plug is stuffed up under the left cowl pocket inside of a rubber boot along with a white 3 wire plug (unused) and a 6 or 8 wire red plug that is connected to a harness. Hard to find, but they are there, and pulling that boot back far enough to work with the plugs is a royal PAIN IN THE ARSE.

All done and works fine. My battery was low, so when I first turned on the key the LED glowed red. When I started the engine, after about 5 seconds, it turned green as grass.

If you do this and have a problem, drop me a note and I will try to help.
 

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Young Buck
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2,551 Posts
I had one of the Electrical Connection LED battery monitors on my last Honda, and I liked it well. However, the EC monitor was incapable of warning me of the failure of my regulator/rectifier unit. My regulator/rectifier didn't fail by undercharging.... it failed by overcharging by electrical system.

My regulator/rectifier was sending between 16 and 16.5 amps through the electrical system... all the while, the EC monitor was displaying green. Things were badly wrong. It wasn't until I took the bike out one night, after dark, that I realized that there was a problem. The headlight and dash lights were much too bright. And the EC monitor was working as designed.

In addition to the Regulator/Rectifier, I also had to replace the battery from the overcharging.

On the GL1800, I installed one of these.



http://www.kuryakyn.com/products.asp?bn=&ci=1260

The retail price on these is $39.95, although I paid $34.95 for mine.

The Kuryakyn unit is capable of monitoring the entire voltage range... as well as communicating an overcharge condition, by blinking the upper LED, and an undercharge by blinking the lower LED.

I liked the EC unit, but it cannot communicate when the charging system is seeing an overcharge condition.
 

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366 Posts
I liked the EC unit, but it cannot communicate when the charging system is seeing an overcharge condition.
Are you sure about that? The EC unit sounds just like one I had on my 1500. It was made over here in England, and might be EC's source?

Anyway, this one (costing 18 GBP) certainly does indicate over-voltage too. The details are here:

http://www.nanocontrols.co.uk/aos/data/bsm.htm

It also mentions a "NEW digital version" - but I can't see it anywhere.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Big Wing said:
I liked the EC unit, but it cannot communicate when the charging system is seeing an overcharge condition.
Are you sure about that? The EC unit sounds just like one I had on my 1500. It was made over here in England, and might be EC's source?

Anyway, this one (costing 18 GBP) certainly does indicate over-voltage too. The details are here:

http://www.nanocontrols.co.uk/aos/data/bsm.htm

It also mentions a "NEW digital version" - but I can't see it anywhere.

Hi Big Wing:

mrgl02 is correct. The EC unit I have does not indicate overvoltage. When green is is just saying that voltage is 12 V or could be more. I was aware of that but decided not to be concerned about overvoltage as it is a rare happening. I don't think that the EC unit is made in UK, but I don't know for sure.
 

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Young Buck
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2,551 Posts
Big Wing said:
Are you sure about that? The EC unit sounds just like one I had on my 1500. It was made over here in England, and might be EC's source?

Anyway, this one (costing 18 GBP) certainly does indicate over-voltage too. The details are here:

http://www.nanocontrols.co.uk/aos/data/bsm.htm
Yes, I'm sure of it. The product that you are referring to is a different product from a different vendor. However, the one that you show here appears to work the way it should, to be able to communicate an overcharging condition.
 

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Registered
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4,135 Posts
John,

In regards to the connector, it is indeed a 3 pin, but Honda only uses 2 of the terminals. Also, a connector is named male or female based on if it has the component inserted or is inserted. In this case, the bike side connector would be inserted into the accessory so it is called a male connector.

Our Battery Monitor is made in the USA.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Lewis/EC said:
John,

In regards to the connector, it is indeed a 3 pin, but Honda only uses 2 of the terminals. Also, a connector is named male or female based on if it has the component inserted or is inserted. In this case, the bike side connector would be inserted into the accessory so it is called a male connector.

Our Battery Monitor is made in the USA.
Hi Lewis:

Yes, I was aware that it is a 3 pin connector body. I referred to it as a two pin for clarity because it is only used as a two pin. That would reduce the chance of somebody looking for a connector with three wires connected. I could have made that clearer.

The unit works fine, but I would like to see that photo in the instruction sheet made clearer. Also, it might be nice to include a Hitachi connector to match in your kit. Raise the price a couple bucks..it would save a lot of time making the hookup.

You didn't ask for my advice, but you got it anyway. :D

Thanks for a nice product.
 

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Young Buck
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2,551 Posts
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
mrgl02 said:
Just by coincidence, this product was mentioned on another MC board that I monitor. It is the "Heads-Up Voltage Monitor", made by Signal Dynamics.

http://www.signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/HUVM.asp
Hi RF:

The Signal Dynamics looks like a nice unit and some of features that the EC unit doesn't have (overvoltage etc), but it is a more difficult unit to find a good place to mount. I liked the tiny space the EC unit requires. As you know, there isn't a lot of space on the GL cowling to mount stuff unless you want to put something in or on pocket doors etc. The right lower cowling accessory panel is a possibility, but a pain to get behind and isn't very visible for driver.

The EC worked for me. Everyone has their own preferences. Which is why I bet there aren't two Goldwings alike on the planet unless they are factory stockers!

Thanks for the info.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
AI_Nut said:
Is there an easy place to stick the meter probes for a 2 second check on a stock bike?

Thanks.

Directly on the Batt terminals or in the main fuse box. Thats about the easiest place to get to that I know of. Others may have a better idea. :chat:
 
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