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Discussion Starter #1
I read thru some of the comments about battery drain issues. I know the problem has to do with one of the accessories I have attached to my power distribution block. How do I know this, because when my power distribution block is connected to the battery it drained my battery in a week. When it is not attached the bike fires right up. The battery that was drained is a new battery. I read a post about disconnecting the positive battery cable and then using a testing light to connect the positive battery cable back to the battery. Then pull fuses until the light goes out. I'm assuming I would still leave the power distribution block connected to the battery correct? Since only lights are connected to my power block can I assume I am looking for a bare wire somewhere? There were some comments about bad relays, but I don't believe I would be dealing with relays. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Emily
 

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I had a relay go bad but it was a car basically doing the same thing. You can do the same test with a volt meter to find how much drain you have on on the battery. Use the neg. cable and post. Should be less than about 10 milliamps, I think. Check all your connections on your fuse block to make sure you don't have any arcing between posts.:shrug: I'm sure someone more knowledgable will be along soon...
 

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Or add a relay triggered by the aux terminal in the fuse box. That way, when you shut of the bike, all of the accessories are shut off.
 

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My drain was caused by a simple USB charger plugged into a power port (with nothing even connected to it). After much diagnosis, I finally pulled the charger as a last resort, and the drain stopped. No problems since.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, I have a Bike MP3 digital music player plugged into the cd slot. Had it installed at the Knoxville Wing Dingby the Bike MP3 folks, which I think was 2 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I thought the drain on my battery was with my accessories, but I was wrong. Even with the accessories disconnected my battery went dead in a couple of weeks. So I tried the test light test. I disconnected the lead wire from the battery and connected the light tester. The only fuse I pulled where the light tester did not light was the battery fuse. I'm assuming this is correct? So what does that mean and where do I go from here?
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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So I thought the drain on my battery was with my accessories, but I was wrong. Even with the accessories disconnected my battery went dead in a couple of weeks. So I tried the test light test. I disconnected the lead wire from the battery and connected the light tester. The only fuse I pulled where the light tester did not light was the battery fuse. I'm assuming this is correct? So what does that mean and where do I go from here?
Ok, that means you need to get a meter and measure the current that the "battery" fuse circuit is pulling. If it's more than 5mA then you will need to take the trunk lid liner out and unplug the trunk lock receiver and see what the drain drops to. If it drops well below the 5mA limit, then the receiver is probably bad. Do you have the optional trunk light or vanity mirror in the trunk? Those can malfunction and not turn off as well. You could also have a couple of broken wires at the right trunk hinge harness that could be shorting out to each other. This is the harness that feeds power to the trunk lock receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cool, thanks.

No I do not have the optional trunk light or vanity mirror in the trunk. Why the battery fuse?
 

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And then again, you might just have a bad battery.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Cool, thanks.

No I do not have the optional trunk light or vanity mirror in the trunk. Why the battery fuse?
The fuse labeled battery is the power for the trunk lock control unit and the power plug in the trunk, it's hot all the time to allow the key fob to work and to maintain the memory circuits in the radio, CB, gauges, and the optional lights for the trunk. This circuit is the only thing that should be using power with the key off and the drain on it should be no more than 5mA. The light test is good to see if something else is causing the drain, but it doesn't do much good if you need to see how much current is draining.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I took off the inner liner to reach the trunk lock control unit. Disconnected it. Disconnected the white connector, the blue one was not connected. The meter still reads over 10mA. I unwrapped the trunk wiring harness at the hinge and there were no breaks or bare wires. Still I get a reading over 10mA. Maybe I am not measuring the current correctly. So how do I measure the current at the battery fuse? On the off chance that I did get the reading correctly, what do I do next?
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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I took off the inner liner to reach the trunk lock control unit. Disconnected it. Disconnected the white connector, the blue one was not connected. The meter still reads over 10mA. I unwrapped the trunk wiring harness at the hinge and there were no breaks or bare wires. Still I get a reading over 10mA. Maybe I am not measuring the current correctly. So how do I measure the current at the battery fuse? On the off chance that I did get the reading correctly, what do I do next?
OK, reconnect the trunk unit if it's still loose. You will need to pull the shelter off and disconnect the audio unit to see if it is pulling the extra current.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Argh!! I hate pulling the shelter off. I have such a hard time disconnecting the center connectors underneath the shelter.

Ok, let me try that. I'll get back to you.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I had a feeling I was not measuring the current correctly and I was not. Did a little research to see what I really needed to do. So measuring the current on the battery fuse I get zero. The only time I am able to measure the current is when I put my meter in series with the battery. When I do this, touch one lead to the battery and touch the other lead to the battery cable, with the meter set at 10mA, right off the bat the needle on the meter goes all the way to the right. Then after a couple of seconds the needle settles down to anywhere between 3.7 to 4.5. The needle never seems to stay in one position very long. It can fluctuate from 3.7 to 4.5. I also noticed if I set my meter to 250mA, when I reconnect the meter leads to the battery and battery cable, the needle shoots all the way to the right before it settles back down after a few seconds. The results from my light test has not changed. The light is still on until I pull the battery fuse. :cry:
 

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similar problem

After buying a new battery and much head scratching the good people on this board helped me determine my Bike brand MP3 player was the problem now if I use it I unplug it in the trunk when not in use might be a good place to start as some have already said.
 
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