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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2018 Tour DCT bought Feb 18. I don't winterize or put my bike on a charger since I ride it weekly. Battery is now dead. FOB flashes like its battery is OK but panel does not light up when I twist the knob nor does it unlock rear trunk or saddlebags. First battery issue.

Where would you start? I plugged in the Battery Tender cable to its wall outlet. Also how the heck do you open the FOB to change its battery?

Thanks
 

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I had to replace my battery last month. I bought my bike around May '18. I guess that's about all you can expect out of the factory battery. There is a bigger constant drain on the 18+ than there was on previous models. I've had to jump it several times before I finally bit the bullet and bought another battery.
 

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I had to replace my battery last month. I bought my bike around May '18. I guess that's about all you can expect out of the factory battery. There is a bigger constant drain on the 18+ than there was on previous models. I've had to jump it several times before I finally bit the bullet and bought another battery.
What is the bigger constant drain? Specified leakage on the 2018 + bikes is 1.2 ma. On the 01-17 bikes, it‘s 5 ma.
 

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What is the bigger constant drain? Specified leakage on the 2018 + bikes is 1.2 ma. On the 01-17 bikes, it‘s 5 ma.
If thats the case then maybe I just got a bad battery. All of my observations are based on my personal experience and may not represent the larger GW community. YMMV.
 

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On why nothing seems to work electrically. and you have been riding the bike.
If it happened (again) to me most likely I would be repeating an error I have done.

Shut the bike off with the kill switch, then run to the bathroom, but not come back and turn the ignition switch off. Thus the lights stay on and all those electrons escape out of the battery
 

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Many of the battery problems are caused by the bike staying powered up when you turn the ignition off. It is easy to miss this and walk away from the bike thinking it is off when it isn't. If the rear wheel is moving, or the FOB is not detected when you turn the ignition off, the engine will shut off, but all the electrics will stay powered up. It's a good idea to get into the habit of checking the dash panel before walking away from the bike. Another method is just always turn the key knob to the off position twice, because the second turn will force it to power down fully.

If you have left the bike on and drained the battery, you will severely shortened the batteries lifespan. It may come back after a full recharge, but it probably won't ever return back to 100%, so keep an eye on it.
 

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Many of the battery problems are caused by the bike staying powered up when you turn the ignition off. It is easy to miss this and walk away from the bike thinking it is off when it isn't. If the rear wheel is moving, or the FOB is not detected when you turn the ignition off, the engine will shut off, but all the electrics will stay powered up. It's a good idea to get into the habit of checking the dash panel before walking away from the bike. Another method is just always turn the key knob to the off position twice, because the second turn will force it to power down fully.

If you have left the bike on and drained the battery, you will severely shortened the batteries lifespan. It may come back after a full recharge, but it probably won't ever return back to 100%, so keep an eye on it.
Thanks Fred, I make it a habit to watch for the bike to throw me the bird before I hop off. I'll try turning the knob twice this year to see if it's just me.
 

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There have been a number of premature battery issues posted here you may want to search out. My '18 battery was replaced by the shop that sold me the bike a few months after purchase.
 

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Kept my bike's battery on a tender since day one. Battery is still good. Longest the battery has been without the tender were the times I've gone on extended trips and had no place to plug in. But that's only been a couple times and only for around a week each time.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Had the bike on the wall BATTERY TENDER(small plug in unit) It started right up after 12 hour charge. I will ride the bike at least 1 1/2 hour and watch it carefully. May go ahead & get a new battery. I usually click it twice to the left. But a few days ago I had the bike on the center stand. started it up & who knows I may have screwed up & left the bike on
 

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Depending on how dead the battery is the tender might not charge it, best to measure the battery voltage.
As for FOB battery the manual is your friend.
View attachment 366877
If the battery is fully discharged, the electronic battery charger will not charge it. The easiest way to wake up the battery is to connect it to your car and let the engine run for few minutes. Then disconnect it and connect to charge. It works...
 

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I definitely had a bad battery on mine after I just had it 9 months. I always turn two times to left when I cut it off to lock handle bars. Bike had been driven weekly. All accessories installed by dealer. Honda would not stand behind their defective battery, either. Long story already reported here, but new battery corrected the problem. I think there were a lot of 2018's that had bad batteries.
 

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The easiest way to wake up the battery is to connect it to your car and let the engine run for few minutes
I'm sure many have done this, with no issues, but it is not recommended to do this. The incoming rush of current from the car battery/alternator can be enough to cause the bikes battery to experience internal damage. Use a battery charger on the lowest setting, not the start car setting.
 

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My bike would not even turn on four separate times. Twice it happened to me and it was extremely tough to get it going again. I had to spend at least 10 minutes connected to a running automobile to get it to even turn on. Two of those times it happened to the dealer. The first time they sort of figured it was their mistake and they got it fired right up. The second time the manager said, "This is the third bike I've seen doing this. I'm just going to replace the battery and the problem should go away." He was 100% correct. I've not had one odd issue since he replaced that battery.
They did not question it, they didn't even put it on the paperwork...just apologized for the inconvenience. (They gave me a ride home and kept the bike overnight to re-test in the morning. My shop rocks.)
 

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In my two years my battery only went down once. My fault, I left it on with the lights. I put it on trickle charge for a few hours and no problems since.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Mine seems to be working fine now. I may keep it on the BATTERY TENDER at night
 

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I would leave it on the Tender and get the battery tested. If the test is good, ride on; if the battery tests questionable, then order the replacement. I zapped my battery in the first few weeks of owning the bike. We did not know then about the live circuits being on if shut off while on center stand and rear tire reversing slowly. Mine was not totally depleated and it did recover to test with flying colors; so far, so good. Resting voltage, not surface voltage, yesterday was 12,7V. Not bad, not perfect either.

prs
 
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