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Discussion Starter #1
The other day I had a question about a wobble. A couple of folks here suggested re-seating the tire. Is there any way to break the beads without removing the wheel? (Front) I don't have a manual nor do I have a torque wrench so I would like to just do it without removing the wheel.
 

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No the wheel will have to be removed to break the bead and re-seat it.
 

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Yes, I have broke the bead with a large C- clamp with two 1 x 4 wood pieces on each side. This method only breaks a 6 or 8 inch section so you will have to move the C-clamp and wood a couple of times. Once the bead is broke on about 1/2 of the tire the other pops off easily. Once you get the bead off the rim use some kind of lubricant, soapy water or the like and go around both the rim and the tire bead really well. Add air until both sides pop out. Some tires have a line molded in the tire going all the way around right above the bead so you can see if the tire is seated properly.
 

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I used this technique last weekend in order to remove the OEM valve stem so I could replace it with a metal stem. Had to buy a 6" c-clamp from Autozone (about $8). Took an hour or so and luckily didn't damage anything.
 

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bead breaking made easy

simply lay the tire flat on the ground and place a 2x6 about 3 to 4 feet long on the tire (not the rim) making a ramp. then drive your car or truck slowly up the board and the bead will break. rotate the tire 180 degrees and rerpeat. flip the tire over and do the other side. has worked for me every time, but you will have to remove it from the bike first
 

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Why do something if you do not need to??
Simply look at the wheel and the tire, both sides, both beads If the tire bead is seated properly the line along the tire an bead will all look the same. Nice even spacing.

Simply breaking the bead and re seating it will not accomplish anything, unless it is not seated properly and you can tell that by looking at the tire and bead.
 

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simply lay the tire flat on the ground and place a 2x6 about 3 to 4 feet long on the tire (not the rim) making a ramp. then drive your car or truck slowly up the board and the bead will break. rotate the tire 180 degrees and rerpeat. flip the tire over and do the other side. has worked for me every time, but you will have to remove it from the bike first
Whoa!!!! Do not lay the front tire down and do this. You will warp your brake rotor. Besides, OP said couldn't take tire off.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
O.K.

I'll take a look at the way the tire is situated on the wheel. The problem is, I have a balanced tire with a wobble, half worn out, wobbled since I put it on, no cupping, so it was suggested that the bead is not seated properly.

If nothing else, I'll pull it and replace.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.
 

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front wobble can be caused by rear tire. check it out.
 

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Yes, I have broke the bead with a large C- clamp with two 1 x 4 wood pieces on each side. This method only breaks a 6 or 8 inch section so you will have to move the C-clamp and wood a couple of times. Once the bead is broke on about 1/2 of the tire the other pops off easily. Once you get the bead off the rim use some kind of lubricant, soapy water or the like and go around both the rim and the tire bead really well. Add air until both sides pop out. Some tires have a line molded in the tire going all the way around right above the bead so you can see if the tire is seated properly.
:agree: This should do the trick.
In changing tires myself with a harbor freight changer, I have found old rubber isn't cleaned off the rim and the new tire may hang up some if the tire isn't lubed good!
 

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There is a "Tell-Tale" line around most tires for judging the equal seating of the tre around the rim, but to eyeball that and actually verify that it is correct may take a talented "eye". Obvious diversion of that line indicates a big lack of truness in the seating and I would think such a tire would leak air fast enough to call one's attention. The time to check the bead seating is right after the seating attempt. Check for air leaks at beads too. If the installer do those things, then the non mechanical rider is down the creek with no paddle.

If you can steady the steering (lock it in a straight forward position), you could also visually check run-out in side to side and vertical plane. Run-out error could be due to poor seating of tire, damaged/defective tire, damaged/defective rim, or bent axle. You can use smooth wood or other material blocks set beside the tire as it tuns slowly to judge run-out rougly and sight the air gap between the floor and tire as it tuns for vertical plane. If run-out is noticed in this rough method, use of a proper gague is needed for more accurate measure. I tink wobbles from the rear are more common, but the OP stated this one commenced with install of new front tire.

prs
 

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Kit is dead on!

Dawg
You seat a lot of tires and I only a few per year. On those occasions that you do not get two good robust "BANGS" as the beads seat, do you inspect those Tell-Tale lines and/or just break it down, relube, and try again? I have to admit, that when I don't satisfactory seating "BANGS", I neglect to look at the lines and simply start over by breaking it down, cleaning the rims seats and re-lubing the tires. Then again, I am VERY farsighted and prolly could not judge by the lines anyway without going to get my bi-focals.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I checked

the seating visually and it looks good. Put the bike on the center stand and ran it a little. Rear tire seems true, doesn't wiggle but just a tiny bit. Don't thing that's the problem. I'm beginning to think it's a problem with the front 709 itself. As long as it itsn't cupping, I'll put up with the wobble and wear the thing out and replace it.
 
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