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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello Fellow/Lady Riders:

I have and '08 with 54K and I've been noticing a knocking/rattling//vibration at the gear shifter area. The vibration/knoocking has become steadily worse. The knocking/vibrations are louder at low RPM events, startup/idling w/a high pitch whine at startup.. I can feel the vibration at times at highway speeds. I checked the voltage and it's ranging 11.2-11.47 volts with the bike running. (recently new battery)

I discovered HondaInTheSun's thread, Listen to my Wing...please?, which GoldWing Greg/ Tech Dude/others weighted in. My bikes noise levels are not that acute as yet, but the sound is similar.

I performed the "screwdriver test" and here are the results.

Screw driver location:
Position 1- little to very little vibration
Position 2.- A lot of vibration and could detect the knocking/pinging/high pitch sounds
Position 3 - Tremendous amounts of vibration which remind me of a failing water pump and old washing machine.

Would it be a safe assumption my alternator as descriptions are similar and the charging levels are dropping while running? Any input? I'm have delayed riding for now and don't want to breakdown, especially from NC->Wingding. I want to order the OEM replacement soon as possible if the alternator is suspect. However, I see the OEM replacement at Partzilla is $847.00 !! For real??!

I welcome replacement tips as I recall quite sometime back a bolt in the rear is difficult to remove/replace w/o some special tool?

UPDATE:

Alternator is out and a new OEM one is ordered. I was hoping to hear a lot of knocking, grinding, or some noise. I just hear a little clicking when I spin the spline. I mean the noise/rattling was bad. I attempted to rotate the inner gear and it’s rotates smoothly w/o issue nor unusual movement. Could this be a sign of other/worse things?
===========================
Here’s Hoping for Good News!
The new alternator was installed Tuesday night! Listening to everyone’s advice and youtube videos made the process easier. I noticed folks having a little trouble reattaching the rear plug, so I attached it b4 I eased the alternator in...

Took the time to tighten the hose clamps and add a new #14 solid copper ground wire from G1 to a buss bar to the rear hitch. Easier grnd point for the rear isolator, trailer, and accessories.

Hopefully complete new wiring/battery reinstallation/testing/reassembly Wednesday..

Thanks again very much for the members input!! 👍
 

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IronMan
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DO ADVANCE SEARCH ON FORUM THERES LONG RATCHET THAT GETS IN THERE GOOD LUCK
 
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GL1800 Doctor
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Hello Fellow/Lady Riders:

I have and '08 with 54K and I've been noticing a knocking/rattling//vibration at the gear shifter area. The vibration/knoocking has become steadily worse. The knocking/vibrations are louder at low RPM events, startup/idling w/a high pitch whine at startup.. I can feel the vibration at times at highway speeds. I checked the voltage and it's ranging 11.2-11.47 volts with the bike running. (recently new battery)

I discovered HondaInTheSun's thread, Listen to my Wing...please?, which GoldWing Greg/ Tech Dude/others weighted in. My bikes noise levels are not that acute as yet, but the sound is similar.

I performed the "screwdriver test" and here are the results.

Screw driver location:
Position 1- little to very little vibration
Position 2.- A lot of vibration and could detect the knocking/pinging/high pitch sounds
Position 3 - Tremendous amounts of vibration which remind me of a failing water pump and old washing machine.

Would it be a safe assumption my alternator as descriptions are similar and the charging levels are dropping while running? Any input? I'm have delayed riding for now and don't want to breakdown, especially from NC->Wingding. I want to order the OEM replacement soon as possible if the alternator is suspect. However, I see the OEM replacement at Partzilla is $847.00 !! For real??!

I welcome replacement tips as I recall quite sometime back a bolt in the rear is difficult to remove/replace w/o some special tool?


Thanks very much in advance!! 👍
Based on your system voltage with it running, I would suspect the alternator as the culprit. Even a bad ADG can/will spin the alternator fast enough to charge properly and yours is definitely not charging. Also, check the pricing at Mycycles.com for that alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Based on your system voltage with it running, I would suspect the alternator as the culprit. Even a bad ADG can/will spin the alternator fast enough to charge properly and yours is definitely not charging. Also, check the pricing at Mycycles.com for that alternator.
Thanks! Guess the Mega-Monty upgrade not my only expense...
 

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A word of experience. Get the OEM alternator. Had an after market for a year and it went bad on a trip last year. Found one at a dealer for $450 and changed it in the parking lot of an AutoZone. A flat ratchet wrench with a fine toothed action worked to get it off.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks! Guess the Mega-Monty upgrade not my only expense...
Based on your system voltage with it running, I would suspect the alternator as the culprit. Even a bad ADG can/will spin the alternator fast enough to charge properly and yours is definitely not charging. Also, check the pricing at Mycycles.com for that alternator.
I see www.mycycles.com domain is for sale. No longer in business or different name? Any thoughts on AJ Electric or possibly rebuilding one?
NEW GOLDWING ALTERNATOR GL1800 AIRBAG ABS AUDIO COMFORT 1823CC 2006-2015 31100MCAA61 - AJ Electric Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A word of experience. Get the OEM alternator. Had an after market for a year and it went bad on a trip last year. Found one at a dealer for $450 and changed it in the parking lot of an AutoZone. A flat ratchet wrench with a fine toothed action worked to get it off.
How did you get to and remove the rear bolt? I found these instructions from one rider...


-Disconnect the positive (+) cable from the battery for safety. Use a wire tie to ensure it does not move back into position and touch the battery post as you remove the alternator...you don't want that to happen...

-Remove the left chrome side cover to gain access to the alternator.

-Disconnect the wires from the rear of the alternator. (This will provide the needed clearance to be able to loosen the inside bolt. Rubber boot needs to be slide back to gain access to remove wires.

-Remove the two accessible bolts with a regular box end wrench. I have ratchet type box end wrenches which make it real easy to do.

-Now for the hard bolt - Use a 9.5 inch long 1/4 inch drive breaker bar and a 3 inch extension with a short well socket to get to the inside bolt. This bolt is a PITA...

You can slide the extension/ socket up in behind the alternator and swivel the socket and extension to line up with the inside bolt head. You may need a pen type (telescopic) magnet to help guide (and or lift) the socket onto the bolt head. You can not get your fingers in there. Once I broke this bolt loose and turned it a couple times outward, I used my pen type magnet and placed it over the head of the bolt and slowly dragged it outward (towards me), turning the bolt with the magnet. Its tricky but it worked!

There is enough room to rotate the breaker bar handle down to loosen the bolt but you will only get 1/4 turn each time.

During installation of new alt, just add a 7 inch piece of rubber hose to the head of the inside bolt and you can slip it in and turn the rubber hose to get the bolt started, and you should be able to turn the bolt 90% of the way in leaving you very little time using the breaker bar and extension to complete tightening it.

DO not tighten this bolt until you get the remaining other two bolts started in their holes and snugged up. Now tighten all three bolts. Don't snap one off or you will be in deep doo-doo..
 

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How did you get to and remove the rear bolt? I found these instructions from one rider...


-Disconnect the positive (+) cable from the battery for safety. Use a wire tie to ensure it does not move back into position and touch the battery post as you remove the alternator...you don't want that to happen...

-Remove the left chrome side cover to gain access to the alternator.

-Disconnect the wires from the rear of the alternator. (This will provide the needed clearance to be able to loosen the inside bolt. Rubber boot needs to be slide back to gain access to remove wires.

-Remove the two accessible bolts with a regular box end wrench. I have ratchet type box end wrenches which make it real easy to do.

-Now for the hard bolt - Use a 9.5 inch long 1/4 inch drive breaker bar and a 3 inch extension with a short well socket to get to the inside bolt. This bolt is a PITA...

You can slide the extension/ socket up in behind the alternator and swivel the socket and extension to line up with the inside bolt head. You may need a pen type (telescopic) magnet to help guide (and or lift) the socket onto the bolt head. You can not get your fingers in there. Once I broke this bolt loose and turned it a couple times outward, I used my pen type magnet and placed it over the head of the bolt and slowly dragged it outward (towards me), turning the bolt with the magnet. Its tricky but it worked!

There is enough room to rotate the breaker bar handle down to loosen the bolt but you will only get 1/4 turn each time.

During installation of new alt, just add a 7 inch piece of rubber hose to the head of the inside bolt and you can slip it in and turn the rubber hose to get the bolt started, and you should be able to turn the bolt 90% of the way in leaving you very little time using the breaker bar and extension to complete tightening it.

DO not tighten this bolt until you get the remaining other two bolts started in their holes and snugged up. Now tighten all three bolts. Don't snap one off or you will be in deep doo-doo..
I am saving this info for the future. It looks like it will work pretty good (y) 😉
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am saving this info for the future. It looks like it will work pretty good (y) 😉
Thanks.. just found this utube video which looks very good/simple. Doesn't mention how he added the bolt back. Guess the rubbler hose on the bolt head w/telescoping /magnet will work...
GL1800 Alternator Replacement.
 

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How did you get to and remove the rear bolt? I found these instructions from one rider...
I did it a little different. That way looks like a good way to do it. Being on the road, I didn't look up how to do it because I had just changed it and the water pump out a year ago and went with the tools I could borrow from AutoZone. I took the top shelter off and lifted the front of the gas tank up. That gave me room to get to the inside bolt. The inside bolt was actually easier to get out than the bottom one. I still used the swivel and a socket and extension to get to it but you can look down from above and get some fingers in there to guide things'
On another note, if you can find a good rebuilder of your old one it is much cheaper and will be just like new. Unfortunately the guy everyone talks about on this site passed away last year.
 
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GL1800 Doctor
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Did the alt have a year warranty? I'm looking for feedback on this one...
It past a year by a few months and I needed one pronto. The one I bought was off of Ebay and was a China knockoff. Here is a good link to the OEM discussion. Alternator replacement, what are members doing?
Search the site for AJ electric and I am sure someone has used them. If it is rebuilt I would feel better about it than if it was a knockoff.
 

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The AJ electric alternator is a very cheap knockoff and will leave you stranded. The OEM is pricey, but worth the investment in security. A GOOD rebuild is an acceptable trade off, but relies on the quality of parts used. (The same suppliers that build the cheap Chinese knockoffs also sell parts) find an old, seasoned, picky rebuilder if you’re going that route. My retired guy does them for <$75....
 
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$636 at MrCycles.com
$676 at Revzilla.com




Hello Fellow/Lady Riders:

I have and '08 with 54K and I've been noticing a knocking/rattling//vibration at the gear shifter area. The vibration/knoocking has become steadily worse. The knocking/vibrations are louder at low RPM events, startup/idling w/a high pitch whine at startup.. I can feel the vibration at times at highway speeds. I checked the voltage and it's ranging 11.2-11.47 volts with the bike running. (recently new battery)

I discovered HondaInTheSun's thread, Listen to my Wing...please?, which GoldWing Greg/ Tech Dude/others weighted in. My bikes noise levels are not that acute as yet, but the sound is similar.

I performed the "screwdriver test" and here are the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Have you checked the cruise system fuse? Does the cruise turn on?
It did, and I need to reverify after performing maintenance on it yesterday...not quite put back together..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
$636 at MrCycles.com
$676 at Revzilla.com
Thanks for pricing info..! I’ll call a couple of dealers on Monday to check for better pricing or just have to order from MrCycle...
 

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I see www.mycycles.com domain is for sale. No longer in business or different name? Any thoughts on AJ Electric or possibly rebuilding one?
NEW GOLDWING ALTERNATOR GL1800 AIRBAG ABS AUDIO COMFORT 1823CC 2006-2015 31100MCAA61 - AJ Electric Thanks!
Try here


Here's a warning about aftermarket alternators.
 
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