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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Try here


Here's a warning about aftermarket alternators.
Thanks Greg ! That a very scary article. With so many defects and expensive repairs, wonder if a class action law suit would get their attention?
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Thanks Greg ! That a very scary article. With so many defects and expensive repairs, wonder if a class action law suit would get their attention?
Hello Fellow/Lady Riders:

I have and '08 with 54K and I've been noticing a knocking/rattling//vibration at the gear shifter area. The vibration/knoocking has become steadily worse. The knocking/vibrations are louder at low RPM events, startup/idling w/a high pitch whine at startup.. I can feel the vibration at times at highway speeds. I checked the voltage and it's ranging 11.2-11.47 volts with the bike running. (recently new battery)

I discovered HondaInTheSun's thread, Listen to my Wing...please?, which GoldWing Greg/ Tech Dude/others weighted in. My bikes noise levels are not that acute as yet, but the sound is similar.

I performed the "screwdriver test" and here are the results.l

Screw driver location:
Position 1- little to very little vibration
Position 2.- A lot of vibration and could detect the knocking/pinging/high pitch sounds
Position 3 - Tremendous amounts of vibration which remind me of a failing water pump and old washing machine.

Would it be a safe assumption my alternator as descriptions are similar and the charging levels are dropping while running? Any input? I'm have delayed riding for now and don't want to breakdown, especially from NC->Wingding. I want to order the OEM replacement soon as possible if the alternator is suspect. However, I see the OEM replacement at Partzilla is $847.00 !! For real??!

I welcome replacement tips as I recall quite sometime back a bolt in the rear is difficult to remove/replace w/o some special tool?


Thanks very much in advance!! 👍
UPDATE
I’m ordering the replacement alternator from MrCycles and I’m removing mine and stuck at a point. I lifted up the gas tank and removed one end of a coolant hose to access the rear bolt. I have all three bolts remove and now have 1/8” clearance between housing/alternator. (Ref pics) There’s not much clearance and I need to know how to finish removing it. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks Greg ! That a very scary article. With so many defects and expensive repairs, wonder if a class action law suit would get their attention?
Not fooling around.. ordering the OEM from mrcycles. Partszilla is out of stock & it’ about 2 weeks to me. MrCycles is here in NC at Asheville & I hope they have one in stock I can pick it up. Now, if I can finish getting the old one out!
 

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Not fooling around.. ordering the OEM from mrcycles. Partszilla is out of stock & it’ about 2 weeks to me. MrCycles is here in NC at Asheville & I hope they have one in stock I can pick it up. Now, if I can finish getting the old one out!
I think MrCylcle is like Partszilla ... basically they stock very little.

As for removal, the alternator is serviceable without having to remove the engine, so there is enough room to finish removing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I think MrCylcle is like Partszilla ... basically they stock very little.

As for removal, the alternator is serviceable without having to remove the engine, so there is enough room to finish removing it.
Thanks, very wary of using mrcycles.com as no one is answering the phone, nor returning my calls. They have many bad reviews not shipping parts, refunds, poor customer service, etc.
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Based on your system voltage with it running, I would suspect the alternator as the culprit. Even a bad ADG can/will spin the alternator fast enough to charge properly and yours is definitely not charging. Also, check the pricing at Mycycles.com for that alternator.
Based on your system voltage with it running, I would suspect the alternator as the culprit. Even a bad ADG can/will spin the alternator fast enough to charge properly and yours is definitely not charging. Also, check the pricing at Mycycles.com for that alternator.
Hello, TD2000, area of concern I have and wonder if you could weigh in.
Alternator is out and a new OEM one is ordered. I was hoping to hear a lot of knocking, grinding, or some noise when I removed it. I just hear a little clicking when I spin the spline. I mean the noise/rattling was bad. I attempted to rotate the inner gear and it’s rotates smoothly w/o issue nor unusual movement. Could this be a sign of other/worse things?

thanks.
 

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Hello, TD2000, area of concern I have and wonder if you could weigh in.
Alternator is out and a new OEM one is ordered. I was hoping to hear a lot of knocking, grinding, or some noise when I removed it. I just hear a little clicking when I spin the spline. I mean the noise/rattling was bad. I attempted to rotate the inner gear and it’s rotates smoothly w/o issue nor unusual movement. Could this be a sign of other/worse things?

thanks.
Have you pulled the alternator apart yet? The cup bearing at the back end can go bad and not feel bad when spun. If you pull it apart, it should be obvious if it’s worn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Have you pulled the alternator apart yet? The cup bearing at the back end can go bad and not feel bad when spun. If you pull it apart, it should be obvious if it’s worn out.
Thanks, very much. I certainly would have a big smile! Grabbing a phillips socket for my air ratchet, the inner phillips screws are very tight..

thanks very much!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I
Have you pulled the alternator apart yet? The cup bearing at the back end can go bad and not feel bad when spun. If you pull it apart, it should be obvious if it’s worn out.
I dissembled the alternator and I was hopeful as I heard a grinding sound when I removed the top half. Guess that was being off-centered don’t see any other obvious wearing. Brushes still have good wear, cup has a little play but otherwise looks good. I rolled the main unit across a straight surface by the cup bearing and it rolled true.

I’m at a loss. I know there was significant knocking by ear, feel, and the screwdriver test. All I can do is wait for the replacement. Now if I can figure out how to reinsert the cup bearing past the two brushes.. thanks for the advice..
 

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I dissembled the alternator and I was hopeful as I heard a grinding sound when I removed the top half. Guess that was being off-centered don’t see any other obvious wearing. Brushes still have good wear, cup has a little play but otherwise looks good. I rolled the main unit across a straight surface by the cup bearing and it rolled true.

I’m at a loss. I know there was significant knocking by ear, feel, and the screwdriver test. All I can do is wait for the replacement. Now if I can figure out how to reinsert the cup bearing past the two brushes.. thanks for the advice..
Well, a “little play” may be enough to make it knock when spinning under a load. All you can do is see what the new one does. There’s a hole through the brush holder that extends to the outside of the housing that will allow you to stick a straightened paperclip in it to hold the brushes against the springs until you get a new bearing in there and reassemble it. Once it’s fully together, just pull the paper clip wire out to release the brushes. Is there any evidence of the rotor possibly coming into contact with the stator? A worn rear bearing can allow contact to be made and damage to both.
 

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I dissembled the alternator and I was hopeful as I heard a grinding sound when I removed the top half. Guess that was being off-centered don’t see any other obvious wearing. Brushes still have good wear, cup has a little play but otherwise looks good. I rolled the main unit across a straight surface by the cup bearing and it rolled true.

I’m at a loss. I know there was significant knocking by ear, feel, and the screwdriver test. All I can do is wait for the replacement. Now if I can figure out how to reinsert the cup bearing past the two brushes.. thanks for the advice..
Using a screw-driver and listening at the back of the alternator is often very deceptive. Same with putting your hand on the alternator. To test, do the same to another Wing. On 5th gens, noises and knocks seem to travel to that area, and the alternator becomes the echo chamber.

The best way to know if an alternator has a noise issue is to install a known good one. Sometime, and I don't recall what noise caused this, but placing a rubber hose to your ear, and putting it on the front side, and then the back side, of the rear case's gasket area can shed information.

However, in your OP, you have low voltage. I also read that the battery was replaced. Assuming that the new battery test good, and that your connections are clean and tight, your alternator is probably bad because it's no longer charging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Well, a “little play” may be enough to make it knock when spinning under a load. All you can do is see what the new one does. There’s a hole through the brush holder that extends to the outside of the housing that will allow you to stick a straightened paperclip in it to hold the brushes against the springs until you get a new bearing in there and reassemble it. Once it’s fully together, just pull the paper clip wire out to release the brushes. Is there any evidence of the rotor possibly coming into contact with the stator? A worn rear bearing can allow contact to be made and damage to both.
Hoping for the best, The new one should be in by middle or late next week..
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Using a screw-driver and listening at the back of the alternator is often very deceptive. Same with putting your hand on the alternator. To test, do the same to another Wing. On 5th gens, noises and knocks seem to travel to that area, and the alternator becomes the echo chamber.

The best way to know if an alternator has a noise issue is to install a known good one. Sometime, and I don't recall what noise caused this, but placing a rubber hose to your ear, and putting it on the front side, and then the back side, of the rear case's gasket area can shed information.

However, in your OP, you have low voltage. I also read that the battery was replaced. Assuming that the new battery test good, and that your connections are clean and tight, your alternator is probably bad because it's no longer charging.
Thanks
 
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