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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to get a hot wire to my trailer brakes. Where is the best place to pick it up? 2002 gold wing. Thankx.
 

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Always hot? Only hot when the brakes are applied? How much current is required? Why doesn't the trailer with trailer brakes come with an instruction manual showing the proper wiring?
 

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Best place is to make your own off the battery with your own fuse and wire. Light green/black is hot with the key. Red/Yellow is hot all the time. Back where you're working the license light (and all running lights) is Brown/White. These colors are all true for all models Honda except the brown/white which is sometimes just brown and sometimes brown/black.

None of those wires should be used by anything with more pull than a relay.


 

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Sorry you didnt ask, but I cant help but wonder if trailer brakes on a motorcycle pulled vehicle is a good idea. Ive used trailer brakes on horse trailers behind my F350 dually and often times it is set too tight and can lock up the brakes on the trailer. Im wondering if trailer brakes locking up while you are in a curve with a lean could or would throw you to the ground or cause a rear wheel skid? Again, I may be wrong but the idea sounds dangerous unless you have a trike. Is this for a trike? What type of trailer are you pulling if you dont mind me being nosey?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry I didn't include more info. I just got an Aspen Classic camper trailer which has electric drum brakes. It also has a Prodigy wireless controller for the electric brakes. The controller is hand held and just plugs into the lighter on the dash and is wireless to the receiver mounted on the trailer. It is the receiver moduel on the trailer which needs 12vdc (along with the typ trailer light hook up) to work. So I need a 20 amp 12vdc supply whenever the bike is on. It is my understanding that this controller works well and safely. Thank you for the help.
 

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If you're needing 20 amps, I'd recommend adding a dedicated relay fed directly by the battery.
 

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Sorry I didn't include more info. I just got an Aspen Classic camper trailer which has electric drum brakes. It also has a Prodigy wireless controller for the electric brakes. The controller is hand held and just plugs into the lighter on the dash and is wireless to the receiver mounted on the trailer. It is the receiver moduel on the trailer which needs 12vdc (along with the typ trailer light hook up) to work. So I need a 20 amp 12vdc supply whenever the bike is on. It is my understanding that this controller works well and safely. Thank you for the help.
No.... thank YOU, I learned something new today that I did not know! I still wonder how this works safely but it must or they would not sell the product.
 

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Sorry you didn't ask, but I cant help but wonder if trailer brakes on a motorcycle pulled vehicle is a good idea. Ive used trailer brakes on horse trailers behind my F350 dually and often times it is set too tight and can lock up the brakes on the trailer. Im wondering if trailer brakes locking up while you are in a curve with a lean could or would throw you to the ground or cause a rear wheel skid? Again, I may be wrong but the idea sounds dangerous unless you have a trike. Is this for a trike? What type of trailer are you pulling if you dont mind me being nosey?
I believe that the trailer the poster is using weighs about 650/700 pounds loaded. That much weight, you'd better have trailer trailer brakes. The Wing brakes are good, but they are not good at repeated unassisted haul downs when the gross weight of bike and trailer is nearly 1700 pounds. Dragging a trailer adds a serious amount of risk to riding a bike. Can you imagine an emergency stop from 70MPH at that weight without the trailer having brakes. That is a serious liability to incur.
 

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I believe that the trailer the poster is using weighs about 650/700 pounds loaded. That much weight, you'd better have trailer trailer brakes. The Wing brakes are good, but they are not good at repeated unassisted haul downs when the gross weight of bike and trailer is nearly 1700 pounds. Dragging a trailer adds a serious amount of risk to riding a bike. Can you imagine an emergency stop from 70MPH at that weight without the trailer having brakes. That is a serious liability to incur.
I dont want to highjack the OP but it appears I about to anyway. My questions is not WHY one would need trailer brakes, just how do they operate SAFELY with the bike in a hard lean on a curve? If the brakes on the trailer were to catch either ahead of, or harder than, the motorcycle brakes would it tend to disrupt the gyroscopic attribute of the motorcycle causing a crash? Or at least stand the bike up straight causing the bike and trailer to go dirt bike riding?

I have an escapade trailer that we take to the Rockies on vacation, with it loaded, it is about as heavy as I ever want to tow with the Goldwing.... brakes or not! But thats just me!
 

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He wasn't asking whether it was a good idea of not. He was just asking where to hook up the 12 volts.

The battery is the only place you should tie into for constant high current 12 volts.
 

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He wasn't asking whether it was a good idea of not. He was just asking where to hook up the 12 volts.

The battery is the only place you should tie into for constant high current 12 volts.
I agree that the qusetion was where to get power.


The best place would be get it off the battery and then if you wanted to you could hook it up to a switch (maybe in the trunk) and use it for other purposes when not pulling a trailer.
Brett
 

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My questions is not WHY one would need trailer brakes, just how do they operate SAFELY with the bike in a hard lean on a curve?
Exactly as you are taught in the MSF ERC course - NEVER brake leaned over but as you straighten the bike back to vertical. You have very little traction when leaned over for braking, the tire traction is being used to keep the bike from sliding out from under you. When hauling a camper trailer of 600 - 900 lbs. you NEED electric brakes. And if you set them up and use them they will not cause the slide out, you're not braking correctly will cause the slide out.
 

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20 amp circuit? I would come off the battery, or run a heavy wire into the trunk area and a fuse block and then off that.
 

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20 amp circuit? I would come off the battery, or run a heavy wire into the trunk area and a fuse block and then off that.
I would also make sure it is sleeved for extra protection, 20 amps is a lot of current. Depending how far back into the trailer this circuit has to go, it might require at least a 12 gauge wire.
I would assume that this circuit is added to the trailer plug bundle, so you will need a large plug that can handle a 12 gauge wire on both sides, this means a pretty hefty connector pin for at least this one circuit, plus a matching, check that, a larger one for the the ground as well. You need to add all the rest of the current used by the trailer while towing, so it will be 20 plus xx amps. Might need a 10 gauge ground return. Suitable fuse protection as well.
A trailer like this should have come with a factory bike side harness.
 

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I have a bunkhouse with electiric over hydralic brakes and mine is hooked to the brake wire and you can set the pressure on the hyd. pump for the amount of pressure you want on the brakes.I have mine set to slow the trailer down but not lock up.Went to the Canadian Rookies and am very glad I have brakes on my trailer
 
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