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Here Ya go; the second one is an updated method with the two pins. The second video also shows how to take advantage of the over-bored handle bar fastening holes to further align the bars.


 

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Discussion Starter #22
Bridgestone Driveguard put on rear 3,500 miles ago. Previously had Snow Ctl on rear. oem Bridgestone on front

26,000 miles on bike. Tires look ok (7,500 on front & 3,500 on rear), It is pulling hard right (like a car out of alignment). Regardless of road grade or wind condition. And bike is evenly loaded.

Other than a bad tire, what else could cause this? Taking bike to shop in few days, but would appreciate any feedback based on actual experience.
UPDATE -
Took bike to shop. No apparent problems except front tire is badly cupped.
Ordered new front tire, will see if that fixes the bike pulling right.

The service manager at the Honda dealer says my darkside tire is causing the bad cupping of front tire. He says the car tire changes the whole dynamic of the bike, and puts unnecessary stress on the front tire.

I am totally ignorant about this subject, so I ask you experienced darksiders – does that even make sense (rear tire causing front tire to cup)? Have you seen that in your darkside experience?

Thanks in advance for your inputs.
 

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I have don't have a lot of experience with the darkside, but it doesn't make sense. I'm sure others will chime in here. Millions of trouble free miles have been logged by darkside riders. Cupping of front tires is not an unusual issue with motorcycles, even with a motorcycle tire on the rear.
 

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The service manager at the Honda dealer says my darkside tire is causing the bad cupping of front tire. He says the car tire changes the whole dynamic of the bike, and puts unnecessary stress on the front tire.
I have been following DS threads for at least 20 yrs. I don't recall front tire cupping being mentioned as a result of DS. Seems to me the service mgr wants to blame something, so he goes after something he doesn't understand.

As already mentioned, front tire cupping happens with MC tires, too, so...
 

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I use runflat car tires, 28 psi, on my 07 rear for the last 7yrs 80,000 mi + & Bridgestone 709 M/C tires, 38 ps,i on the front and I get about 24,000 mi out of them and none have ever cupped. I use counteract balancing beads 2 oz front & 4 oz rear. Check psi before every ride . no brainer!!! Best combo ever . svc mngr could possibly be mistaken! YMMV
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I use runflat car tires, 28 psi, on my 07 rear for the last 7yrs 80,000 mi + & Bridgestone 709 M/C tires, 38 ps,i on the front and I get about 24,000 mi out of them and none have ever cupped. I use counteract balancing beads 2 oz front & 4 oz rear. Check psi before every ride . no brainer!!! Best combo ever . svc mngr could possibly be mistaken! YMMV
Wow - 24,000 miles on front tire? Most I have ever gotten was 11,000 on either my previous 2012 ST1300 or 2018 Goldwing. I ALWAYS maintain correct pressure (especially on the new wing - TPMS display makes it a no brainer). I even had used beads before - did not seam to make a difference (as opposed to balancing with weights).

Was running michelin pilot sports on the ST1300. Have been running the (OEM) BRIDGESTONE G853 RADIAL G on front of my Goldwing.

So what am I doing wrong? Why such poor mileage on front tire? I live in central Florida, so roads cannot be that much different from you?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Here Ya go; the second one is an updated method with the two pins. The second video also shows how to take advantage of the over-bored handle bar fastening holes to further align the bars.


Pigeon Roost - THANK YOU.
I had bike looked at and test driven today (independent shop). Pulling right confirmed. It was pointed out to me that my front tire was badly cupped, and that could be the culprit. Ordered new tire. If that does not do the trick will have my mechanic look at the videos and see if something out of wack.

I use an independent shop for routine service and tires. He was not sure if there was any front end alignment on the new (2018+) wings. Said he would investigate. I will show him the videos. I also stopped by the local Honda Dealer, and specifically asked the service manager if there were any front end alignment procedures. He emphatically said NO. Maybe I should send him the videos too!
 

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gkc501....
"So what am I doing wrong? Why such poor mileage on front tire? I live in central Florida, so roads cannot be that much different from you?"




"YMMV"!!! Many things change tire mileage, I ride solo 160lbs mostly group rides, early cool morn breakfast rides, Rear suspension on 2, front springs ++++ Traxxion++++, Golden Spectro front shock fluid, We are old farts so group riding goes only speed limits never over 60. All of the area we ride in up here are horse farms rolling hills & slow corners and we are blessed with many newly paved roads with very little traffic and stop signs. Easy riding. No need for speed after 70 years of riding & racing in younger days..

Older shell rock paved roads south of here are like a 16 grit grinding wheel with razor blades. Rode south Fla roads for 45 years (both of um) sucked!!!! Ride Safe. Take a ride up here it is not far, great area. Ride Safe
 

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OK, so I don't get how this type of steering misalignment would cause a pull to one side or the other. Even if the bars were not 100% in line with the front "tuning" fork, the bike should still track straight, the bars would just be out of alignment. It is like my old 1968 Ninety-Eight Oldsmobile, when the steering wheel was not "level" after an alignment. Car would go straight, the steering wheel was just off, rotated to one side. Technically it should be similar for the bike. I don't see how not having these in alignment would cause a pull one way or the other when the bars are released. Or am I misreading your issue all together? Does it pull all the time, or only when releasing the bars?

Now if the front end was somehow tweaked, such that the front axle pinch bolts had the front wheel/axle torqued slightly to one side, that I could see. I have actually had that happen on a traditional front fork bike... maybe there could be a similar thing happening with the tuning fork, front axle, and pinch bolts. Going to have to put some more though cycles into this...
 

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OK, so I don't get how this type of steering misalignment would cause a pull to one side or the other. Even if the bars were not 100% in line with the front "tuning" fork, the bike should still track straight, the bars would just be out of alignment. It is like my old 1968 Ninety-Eight Oldsmobile, when the steering wheel was not "level" after an alignment. Car would go straight, the steering wheel was just off, rotated to one side. Technically it should be similar for the bike. I don't see how not having these in alignment would cause a pull one way or the other when the bars are released. Or am I misreading your issue all together? Does it pull all the time, or only when releasing the bars?

Now if the front end was somehow tweaked, such that the front axle pinch bolts had the front wheel/axle torqued slightly to one side, that I could see. I have actually had that happen on a traditional front fork bike... maybe there could be a similar thing happening with the tuning fork, front axle, and pinch bolts. Going to have to put some more though cycles into this...
But we are just mortal human beings and our perception leads us to err. If the handle bars are out of kelter, our occipital lobes will send a message to the higher regions and we will tend to "straighten our course" based upon our experienced perception. Now if gkc301 is experiencing the drift when hands free, you have a very valid point. True alignment of front to rear on this bike and the previos edition is accomplished at the swing arm goint, but that is rarely wrong although sometimes found a bit shy on preload. Incorrect assembly of front axle could come into play, but on gkc's bike that was done in distant past. Cupped tire, I doubt; tire coming apart inside I could believe.

prs
 

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GCK501 asked that I expand upon a statement I made in another part of the forum. I stated words to the effect that the rear car tires I have used have led to quicker wear of the front tire. That is a fact in my experience with at least three different models of non-run flat tires on rear and Bridgestone GoldWIng standard front MC tire. I surmise (which leaves room for being wrong) the cause is directly proportional to the somewhat greater inputs to the steering needed in negotiating the very crooked roads in my niche of the wood. "That's about all I got t' say about that", Forrest Gunp.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Now if gkc301 is experiencing the drift when hands free, you have a very valid point.
prs
Yes, I experience the drift when hands free. Put cruise on, take hands off, and bike wants to run off the road. Also feel bike pulling with hands on the handlebar. Enough to cause shoulder stress after couple hours riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
GCK501 asked that I expand upon a statement I made in another part of the forum. I stated words to the effect that the rear car tires I have used have led to quicker wear of the front tire. That is a fact in my experience with at least three different models of non-run flat tires on rear and Bridgestone GoldWIng standard front MC tire. I surmise (which leaves room for being wrong) the cause is directly proportional to the somewhat greater inputs to the steering needed in negotiating the very crooked roads in my niche of the wood. "That's about all I got t' say about that", Forrest Gunp.

prs
What you say makes sense to me. Most of the roads I ride are crowned sloping down to the right. With the CT wanting to lay flat, I assume I must counteract with steering force to the left. Is that what you were implying? Anyway - just wish someone would start manufacturing a run-flat motorcycle tire!
 

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I still have so much to learn about my '18 Wing that I cannot offer much assistance at this point. Being an engineer, I just struggle with the misalignment correction presented in Max's videos being the cause of the pull. I have seen others complain about this same "hard-right" pull but have not seen anyone respond how it was corrected. The swinging arm pivot, or rear drive out of alignment is definitely a possibility as noted by OP, as well as so many other factors including tires, this is going to be an interesting one to get sorted. I hope Fred H or other chimes in soon with what their experience tell them might be up with your Wing pulling to one side.

EDIT: I just found a video about how to correctly install the front wheel and torque the axle/pinch bolts. It is pretty much exactly like the procedure on other conventional front fork bikes and what is listed in the Wing maintenance manual. However, with the new Wing Front End, I wonder if not following that procedure compounds the effects on the "tuning fork" front end. Or if dropping the bike/it falling over, could cause issues...

Might be worth just loosening up everything on the front wheel installation hardware and following the maintenance manual procedure for front wheel installation. It is worth a try at least, and much easier than trying to realign the rear drive.
 

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I still have so much to learn about my '18 Wing that I cannot offer much assistance at this point. Being an engineer, I just struggle with the misalignment correction presented in Max's videos being the cause of the pull. I have seen others complain about this same "hard-right" pull but have not seen anyone respond how it was corrected. The swinging arm pivot, or rear drive out of alignment is definitely a possibility as noted by OP, as well as so many other factors including tires, this is going to be an interesting one to get sorted. I hope Fred H or other chimes in soon with what their experience tell them might be up with your Wing pulling to one side.

EDIT: I just found a video about how to correctly install the front wheel and torque the axle/pinch bolts. It is pretty much exactly like the procedure on other conventional front fork bikes and what is listed in the Wing maintenance manual. However, with the new Wing Front End, I wonder if not following that procedure compounds the effects on the "tuning fork" front end. Or if dropping the bike/it falling over, could cause issues...

Might be worth just loosening up everything on the front wheel installation hardware and following the maintenance manual procedure for front wheel installation. It is worth a try at least, and much easier than trying to realign the rear drive.
Worth a try.:cool::cool:
 

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one thing i found was the wear on my tie rod became more noticeable after few thousand miles with drive guard. Made me feel as if i was having to have constant handle bar input. Most of this was fixed by playing with tire pressure ended up with 34 rear 38 front always ride 2 up. When the tie rod hit the 4mm play I replaced it with the traxxion replacement. Between that and pressure most of the fighting bike pulling in straight line are gone.
 

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Have you checked your bags for uneven load? This will cause the pull you are discussing. Also, dynamic vs. static balancing has made a large difference in front tires cupping. Dynabeads!! Don’t listen to anyone who hasn’t run DS to give you any input. Dealers sell tires and would rather you spend $600 a year with them that $150 on eBay or Discount tire...
 
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