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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best method for bike to trailer light wiring? I have seen different types of harnesses for this. One is a simple 4 wire flat connector, the other is an isolator type. Where do you buy them? What are the pros and cons of each?

Stan
 

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try Electrical connection for an isolator/wiring harness... the isolator keep any voltage spikes from damaging your bike electrical system.. and it hooks up directly to the battery thus eliminating any voltage drop due to
small size wire on lots of bikes (especially Goldwings)

cosmic
 

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bamaTrider said:
What is the best method for bike to trailer light wiring? I have seen different types of harnesses for this. One is a simple 4 wire flat connector, the other is an isolator type. Where do you buy them? What are the pros and cons of each?

Stan
You mentioned a four wire flat connector... is this what your trailer has? If so, I'll direct this response to that situation. If your trailer isn't a four wire, that will require a different answer. BTW, an isloator harness isn't the same thing as the bike's trailer pigtail. The pigtail is wired in after the harness.

First, harnesses. An isolation harness protects the bike's wiring from problems in the trailer wiring... shorts, grounds, etc. Without the isolator, the bike's wiring is at risk. Some of the isolator harnesses are plug and play - very desirable as you don't have to splice into the bike's wiring harness, just plug them in.

For a four wire trailer, you have to add a 5 wire to 4 wire converter. The bike is a 5 wire system, as it has turn signals that are wired separately from the brakes/running lights. After the converter, you then splice in the pigtail that will attach to the trailer.

If the trailer is a five wire system, plug the isolator in, then splice in the pigtail for the trailer.

A word of caution... 5 wire to 4 wire converter's don't react the same in different situations. Some trailers really like the U-Haul converter and other's don't... at least that's what's been reported on the board. I use the U-Haul converter with my trailer and it has worked flawlessly.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the clarification, Wanderer. My trailer has a std flat 4 wire auto type connector. I think what you are describing is the same as on my Silverado truck. I had to buy an adapter from Hoppy to convert it to 4 wire flat connector because std wiring would blow a taillight fuse. I'll visit the Hoppy and or Electrical Connection sites again for a plug and play version of the isolator and pigtail.

Stan
 

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bamaTrider said:
Thanks for the clarification, Wanderer. My trailer has a std flat 4 wire auto type connector. I think what you are describing is the same as on my Silverado truck. I had to buy an adapter from Hoppy to convert it to 4 wire flat connector because std wiring would blow a taillight fuse. I'll visit the Hoppy and or Electrical Connection sites again for a plug and play version of the isolator and pigtail.

Stan
Stan,

I'm not sure about the Hoppy converter, but the U-Haul comes with a standard flat 4-pin connector - no splicing required on that end, although you still have to splice it into the isolator harness. One more point... from what other's have posted, the U-Haul converter works in more applications than the Hoppy. If EC has a 5-4 wire converter, I'd get the whole setup from them - the isolator harness, sub-harness and converter.

Have fun with the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hoppy did not have the converter specific to the Goldwing. They only had a universal type. I checked with the EC site, and on CruiserCustomisings site. CruiserCustomisisng had a slightly better price on the EC converter and harness because they are running a sale on them at $58 and $8 repectively. I like the fact that it is a direct plug in type. This is likely what I'll go with.

Stan
 

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I'm ready to do my wiring also and I may have just confused myself.
I read here that the isolator wires directly to the battery? Also there is a plug and play isolator that plugs into the pigtail connector? Does the plug and play wire to the battery?
I've also read that there is a sub harness that is required, plus a converter from 5 wire to 4 wire.
Maybe I shouldn't read the boards while running a fever. :lol:

Truck
 
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