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Discussion Starter #1
when I turn off the key the bike keeps running have to disconnect the battery to shut it all off the engine kill switch will kill the engine but everything else stays on... Like a relay may be stuck but witch one???:shrug:
 

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Probably a starter relay is stuck. Is the bike actually running or just turning over?


Sent from iPhone
 

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We have had a couple reports of this over the years. The last one was found to be caused by voltage leaking through a connector under the seat that allowed battery voltage to be applied to a wire that kept power on the ignition. I believe it originated from the battery power going to the trunk lock controller in the top of the trunk. I'll try to see if I can dig up the old post.

Next time it happens, start pulling out non essential fuses one by one until it dies. This will help determine which circuit is causing the power to bleed over to the ignition circuit.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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when I turn off the key the bike keeps running have to disconnect the battery to shut it all off the engine kill switch will kill the engine but everything else stays on... Like a relay may be stuck but witch one???:shrug:
You say everything else, what exactly is staying on? It will help narrow down the short if we have a detailed list.
 

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Here is the post I was thinking of. Read entry #6.

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?160238

PROBLEM STATEMENT (2001 GL1800A):
The motorcycle turns itself to the "key ON" state without the ignition switch being turned to the "ON" position. The key switch is, in fact, useless at this point. The only way to turn the bike "OFF" is to disconnect the battery.

RESOLUTION / REASONING / REPAIR:
Honda manufacturing has made a one-to-three wire (RED/WHT wire) connection (splice) at the rear of the bike located under the seat and just under the passenger left-side convenience pocket (just before connector “C-14”). This splice connection is wrapped in a blue-colored vinyl-like silicone covering that degrades over time (due in part to the passive voltage (0.25 volts) constantly applied to the remote trunk-lock assembly module through this RED/WHT wire) and causes it to effectively “liquefy” which, after years (I guess) of oozing and blistering, eventually creates a conductive pathway through the wire bundle and short-circuits to the frame. Incidentally, this same wire-splice connection is directly located at sharp and very tight 90-degree bend of the wiring bundle over a steel frame support member – BINGO !!
Because this RED/WH wire is essentially "hot" (with 0.25 volts) at all times and, if the degrading blue wire-splice wrap becomes conductive, then the blistering begins (and accelerates) and eventually the ooze makes its way through the tape-wrapped wire bundle and onto the frame (if all the planets are lined up just right) causing the circuit to "short" and, more accurately in this case, "back-feed" voltage causing other "electrical systems" (relays, electronic modules, etc.) to engage and thus putting the motorcycle in the "key-ON" state. WOW!! Yeah, I know – what are the odds here?

This diagnosis is important because the symptoms of this "short" makes one (even those who may be very electrically savvy) totally convinced that the "ignition switch" is bad OR that the FI/IGN relay is bad. Sorry – not the case.



This motorcycle is so incredibly electrically inter-connected that a "single-wire" schematic trouble-shooting analysis is just not practical (as I painfully learned). There are so many ways for a passively-active circuit to "short" and send erroneous voltage “back feeding” through numerous circuits and relays.



After spending considerable time in both tearing down the bike and trouble-shooting the problem, I hope that this discovery will assist many people that own GL1800A's that may be subject to this eventual (and possibly inevitable) failure.



So remember, the next time your Honda GL1800A decides to "turn itself ON" for absolutely no apparent reason whatsoever, don't waste much time in beating your head against the wall (as I did), go directly to this factory wiring "defect".



 

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GL1800 Doctor
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I've seen about 10 wings that would not shut off and none of them turned out to be this bad splice. I think that bike had a one of kind fix at the harness factory. If it does this again, pull out the "main fuse A, 30Amp fuse" and see if it has any effect. Removing this fuse will kill it if it's a bad key switch. Most of the time this occurs, there's a grounding problem in the harnesses.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You say everything else, what exactly is staying on? It will help narrow down the short if we have a detailed list.

The lights, radio, every thing like if you turned on the bike and didn't start it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've seen about 10 wings that would not shut off and none of them turned out to be this bad splice. I think that bike had a one of kind fix at the harness factory. If it does this again, pull out the "main fuse A, 30Amp fuse" and see if it has any effect. Removing this fuse will kill it if it's a bad key switch. Most of the time this occurs, there's a grounding problem in the harnesses.

I puled the main fuse and it didn't help that is what is confusing me.. it has me stumped have try all most every thing you all are suggesting.. and I am thanking all of you for the suggestions ..
 

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I puled the main fuse and it didn't help that is what is confusing me.. it has me stumped have try all most every thing you all are suggesting.. and I am thanking all of you for the suggestions ..
It might simply be a bad ignition switch. Remove the top shelter and disconnect the three pin connector going to the ignition switch, and see what that does.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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I puled the main fuse and it didn't help that is what is confusing me.. it has me stumped have try all most every thing you all are suggesting.. and I am thanking all of you for the suggestions ..
Well, that eliminates the key switch as the culprit if you pulled the main fuse "A". Are the tail lights staying on?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will try that as soon as I get back to it thanks
 

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Well, that eliminates the key switch as the culprit if you pulled the main fuse "A". Are the tail lights staying on?
Good point, I overlooked that. I guess if it were me, I'd start by disconnecting any aftermarket electronic devices that are hooked directly to the battery, just to make sure the problem isn't being induced by an add on accessory.
 

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Time for a tester and skin some wires. I use needles pushed through the wires. If there is power away from the ignition, it is back feeding somehow, so you just start working till you find the source.

Most likely a ground problem in the harness somewhere.......and with something like this, somewhere is hard to find. Much easier with a tester though.
 

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Interesting problem! This thread is getting saved
.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tommorro I will start checking all the grounds I guess that is a good a place to start as any...:shrug:
 

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Have you done any electrical work on the bike at all? I remember seeing this once before due to a back feed of power but for the life of me I cannot remember what was plugged in wrong although I seem to remember it was a feed into AUX circuit
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Tommorro I will start checking all the grounds I guess that is a good a place to start as any...:shrug:
Before you dig in to that, try pulling the tail light relay and then the accessory relay one at a time to see if either causes the stuff to die. If this doesn't point to a culprit, then do like Fred said and pull the fuses one at a time until everything quits. I would start with the headlight fuse first.
 

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Tommorro I will start checking all the grounds I guess that is a good a place to start as any...:shrug:
Well first.....pull the fuses one at at time, if that does not work, start pulling relays. Something somewhere will provide a clue. Once you know what circuit is the culprit .....maybe.....that can shorten the hunt.
 
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