Have a 2003, always start it in Neutral when I turn the key on I hear what I believe is the fuel pump & a couple of clicks, the bike starts fine, turn key on & dont hear anything hit the start button & front lite dims like always but bike doesnt even turn over, if I keep turning the key on & off several times it finally fires, any help would be great.
Bike wont start
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bike won't start
First thing is check, clean, tighten battery cables. Fully charge battery and test cranking voltage and with the bike running at high idle test charging voltage. looking for not less than 11.5vdc while cranking and minimum 14vdc at high idle. If battery is more than 5 years old get a new one and fully charge it before installing in bike.
Let us know what you fine and the fix please.
Billy
First thing is check, clean, tighten battery cables. Fully charge battery and test cranking voltage and with the bike running at high idle test charging voltage. looking for not less than 11.5vdc while cranking and minimum 14vdc at high idle. If battery is more than 5 years old get a new one and fully charge it before installing in bike.
Let us know what you fine and the fix please.
Billy
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If nothing obviously wrong with battery connections then take battery out and have it load tested at a reputable auto parts normally no charge for that. Simple things first. Once you have established that you have a fully charged battery then the more technically advanced will chime in to start a troubleshooting guide...
Best of luck
Best of luck
I will try all those but like I said I have to turn the key on & off a number of times & then it will start, and at times the 1st time I hit the key it is fine, read out on bike is 12,5 volts and after it's running reads 14
4 volts, when I turn key on, battery is 2 months old but il try what u guys suggest, was also told it could be one of the relays but il try this first
4 volts, when I turn key on, battery is 2 months old but il try what u guys suggest, was also told it could be one of the relays but il try this first
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You said it's a 2003. How many miles?
I ask this because of the number of starting cycles it may have gone through.
Tho not common, the contacts in the ignition switch can get warn out from so many electrical contacts on a bike with
many startup's and miles of use. Just like the starter solenoid contacts.
Corventure Dave
I ask this because of the number of starting cycles it may have gone through.
Tho not common, the contacts in the ignition switch can get warn out from so many electrical contacts on a bike with
many startup's and miles of use. Just like the starter solenoid contacts.
Corventure Dave
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That's normal for an 1800 (1st time I saw it, I thought I had a bad alternator)
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Buy a brand new OEM battery.... you’ll be glad you did!! Can’t hurt and you could rule that out for years to come..
Mattbcnv
Mattbcnv
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So the problem is intermittent.. next time you get it running push down in the emergency cut off on the right handle bar if the engine wants to cut off then that switch is probably dirty. First thing to try with ignition off is to operate the switch back and forth many times that cleans the contacts of the Honda grease at assembly ...
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When you installed the new battery, did you check and clean the cable plates on their back/contact side? Something else to check is the kill switch, while the bike is running, tap on its top and see if it dies. If so, then cycle it on/off/on full left and full right about 30 times and then try the tap test again. When it fails to start, are you getting the FI light coming on at all?
That's the ticket, went out today for a ride & wouldn't start, turned the kill switch on off & on, still nothing, pushed down on kill switch & heard fuel pump come on, bike started, while running pressed on kill switch & bike tried to die, that has to be my problem so can I spray electric contact cleaner around the button to clean it up???
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Exact same thing happened with my trike.... the quick fix?? Grab a beer or your favorite beverage, sit on your bike and toggle the switch back and forth for a few hours... in activity on the contacts will cause “gunk” to build up on the contacts...
whenever you have spare time just toggle the switch for 10 mins or so with different pressures on all angles of the switch.... if n it dose t work properly in a week or so your switch is shot and you may want to buy a new one....
Also I would encourage all wing owners to use ALL the switches from time to time.... use um or lose um...
The reverse switch can be especially prone to sticking...
Mattbcnv
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So you're willing to risk your life, due to engine shutting off at random times?... perhaps leaving you stuck in traffic?
Why not Eliminate the Switch entirely?... Personally, I think that they are a Safety Hazard, and too dangerous due to common failures such as yours.
That said, If you do want to keep it, then you would do well to Open the Clam Shell Housing (to access underside of switch) and verify that the 2 tiny terminal screws are Tight... Don't just look at them, but rather put a Screw Driver on each, and try to tighten it up. These commonly come loose from vibration, and cause the problem you've had.
***You cannot tell if they are tight by just looking/tugging at them!***
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I had some similar on my 08 level 3 and it was the battery...
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You might clear up the kill switch issue by working it, but you need to open the handlebar pod and hose the old lube out of the reverse shift switch with plastic safe contact cleaner to get it going.
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Well done work it and clean it. Chances are that the switch wasn’t use much. I have had them stick mechanically and contact issues, now I work them all several times every other ride or so. Or when ever I remember to do so.
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