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I changed my brake pads. One of the pistons came out and some fluid came out with it. I got the pads on and everything back together but now I have nothing when I pull the brake lever.
 

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Yep.......full of air now.

I would rebuild the entire caliper and clean it up . I hate to do things twice.
O ring seals might be nicked.

But you can try just bleeding the system and see what happens.
 

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Yep.......full of air now.

I would rebuild the entire caliper and clean it up . I hate to do things twice.
O ring seals might be nicked.

But you can try just bleeding the system and see what happens.
:agree:
 

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The front calipers bleed real straightforward. In fact, they practically gravity-bleed. Air comes out real easy..


The rears can be another story, however.

Amazing how little air it takes to render the system unsafe.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I notices a little gizmo that had a cap on it and looked like a grease zirk. Is that what I loosen to bleed them?
 

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The left and right bleed valves are in different places. See picture. Just did mine, the fronts easy, the rear is a pain as you have to bleed the anti dive valve and front also in a sequence. That's what the other valves on the front are for. If your rear pedal is soft also, you'll need to do the entire systlem.
 

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I notices a little gizmo that had a cap on it and looked like a grease zirk. Is that what I loosen to bleed them?
What I have read so far gives me the impression that you have no clue on how to bleed brakes :eek:4:. That is not something that someone should try to explain to you on an INTERNET forum. I don't mean to insult you but bleeding brakes is not a non-life threatening project like sticking on some plisti-chrome bling. You need a manual or a video like on YouTube. That brake fluid is highly corrosive and you are in a situation where the whole system has to have new fluid and be purged of all air. That system is linked and that piston coming out is going to cost you a lot of aggravation and $$$. You may even need to loosen banjo bolts to remove air.
You need to stop and have someone with experience in your area look at the bike and help you. Maybe on your local board.
If you get that brake fluid on your paint you will have a repair cost that will be a shocker to your wallet.
This job is not a save money as a first time job with above average complexity. With a manual you may have been OK.
I think you are at the point where you need to either get local help or have it trailered to the local stealer to keep you from doing further damage.
I am always shocked when experienced people talk someone into a job that is just a bit more complex for an inexperienced mechanic :nojoke:.
 

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:agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree:

Thats what I thought when I read his comment!!!

I am NOT saying you can not do this BUT PLEASE MAKE SURE SOMEONE KNOWS WHAT THEIR DOING!!!
 

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I changed my brake pads. One of the pistons came out and some fluid came out with it. I got the pads on and everything back together but now I have nothing when I pull the brake lever.

Did you CLEAN the "pistons" before shoving them back into the calipers???
 

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I notices a little gizmo that had a cap on it and looked like a grease zirk. Is that what I loosen to bleed them?
Ya have 7 of those little gizmo's. ;) The 8th one is the clutch.

You will need a manual, and or a bit of instruction.

Maybe someone on here lives close. You might not have to bribe them much as most will help if given a chance.
 

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Give it a shot, it's not that hard to bleed brakes. Pretty simple really. If you try and fail you're in the exact position you're in now...air in the line. Then take it somewhere AND NOT A DEALER! Any competent local garage can bleed brakes.
 

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It's not one of those things you can permanently screw up. It's just air but if you allow air to get in there, IMO, you need to start over.
 

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A bike that doesn’t run = inconvenient
A bike that doesn’t stop = lethal
 

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Pay d' man t' fix them thar little gizmos; but even he will need the sequence to get a good out come. A man has to know his limitations.

prs
 

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Just replace all your zerks with speed bleeders, go find the bleeding sequence on this forum, get about 3 or 4 pints of Dot four, keep the reservoirs full and clear the air out of those puppies!!
 

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Brake bleeding is a basic, straight-forward procedure. There are plenty of instructions and videos on the net to show what to do and how to do it.

The front calipers on a GW1800 are real easy. Attach a 6" length of 1/4" clear tubing to the bleeder valve, open it slightly and pour brake fluid into the reservoir and it will flow out the bleeder, chasing the air bubbles into a catch bottle. A few squeezes of the brake lever will help. Don't let the reservoir run dry or you will have to start over. When you see NO air bubbles in the hose, tighten the bleeder. Test the brakes thoroughly before you ride. You will also need several pumps of the brake lever to re-seat the pads against the rotors.

You will know if it done right as the brake lever will be hard to pull. Any "squishiness" and you have to keep at it.

It just takes some time and patience.
 

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