GL1800Riders Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
194 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am going to be bleeding my brakes the old fashioned way this weekend since they have gone soft over the winter and was hoping someone would know what size hoses I should get for the nipples to drain the fluid into my pan. I heard there were two different sizes and was hoping to pick up some hose before I got home to crawl under and measure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,851 Posts
There are two different sizes of wrenches to fit them (8mm and 10mm), I have no idea why they did that as the threaded holes in the calipers are all the same; but the nipples are standard fare. I use 3/16" clear tubing and have used 1/8", but that required heating and stretching to fit over. Good tip: Run the clear tubing upward a good bit from the bleeder before turning down into your collection bottle. That makes it easier to see the line demarcation between old and new fluid and easier to see any bubbles.

Don't forget the clutch!

prs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
194 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
There are two different sizes of wrenches to fit them (8mm and 10mm), I have no idea why they did that as the threaded holes in the calipers are all the same; but the nipples are standard fare. I use 3/16" clear tubing and have used 1/8", but that required heating and stretching to fit over. Good tip: Run the clear tubing upward a good bit from the bleeder before turning down into your collection bottle. That makes it easier to see the line demarcation between old and new fluid and easier to see any bubbles.

Don't forget the clutch!

prs
Thank you very much, I searched the threads but all I ever found was info on speed bleeders and such. I just hope there is nothing wrong, I parked it in November, took one ride in Feb when it got warm with no issue but when I got it out two weeks ago the first foot pump goes way down but then pumps up good on the second and third pump. Does fluid break down over time because I never changed the fluid when I bought it two years ago so it may have never been changed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,893 Posts
Brakes

Not that hard or expensive, so i suggest you do it every year. Its more a time thing than mileage. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it soaks up moisture like a sponge. You will find it looks dark and possibly milky at the bottom of the clutch and brake master cylinders. Suck out the old fluid with a brake bleeder or turkey baster, then wipe it clean with towels and Q tips, put in fresh fluid and start bleeding. While you are at it, clean and lube the clutch and front brake levers and pivot bushings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,162 Posts
Not that hard to do but you must follow the proper sequence.

Front Brake Reservoir

1: Front Right Caliper Upper Bleeder Valve 8MM wrench

2: Front Left Caliper Middle/Lower Bleeder Valve 10MM

Rear Reservoir (under right side engine cover)

1: Front Left Caliper Upper Bleeder Valve 8MM

2: Front Right Caliper lower Bleeder Valve 10MM

3: Rear Caliper Lower Bleeder Valve 8MM

4: Anti-Dive: Bleeder Valve on top 10MM

5: Rear Caliper Upper Bleeder Valve 10MM

Lyle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,645 Posts
Funny reading this thread just put me over the top and I ordered Speed Bleeders from Murphs. They were $7 each and free shipping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,673 Posts
Funny reading this thread just put me over the top and I ordered Speed Bleeders from Murphs. They were $7 each and free shipping.
Did the same thing last week, they'll be waiting for me when we get back home.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,360 Posts
Actually the nipples are different shapes where the hose connects. No problem for plastic drain hose, but the Motion-Pro brake bleeder tools will not seal properly on one of the types of nipples.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,851 Posts
Yes the two types of bleeder screws are different in a few ways. Again, I am at all sure why. The 10mm hex size is a couple or three thousands larger in diameter at its diameter just below the threads, its conical shaped sealing surface is of a slightly more shallow angle, its tip end is a bit more blunt than the 8mm hex bleeder screw. The nipple on the 10mm hex size has a double ring design for the tube, the 8mm type has just the single barb that seals into our collection tubing.

prs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
I just did mine the other day utilizing a Mityvac. A couple of points to keep in mind.......monitor both front and rear reservoirs all the time since they are linked and the level drops in both of them while the bleeding is done. The upper bleeder on the rear takes a smaller tubing size.....I used 1/8".

On the clutch, you really don't need to vacuum bleed or even squeeze the lever......it will drain and bleed by gravity. Just be sure the reservoir level doesn't drop low enough to introduce air into the system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,851 Posts
Ed, the ones like the upper rear that require a 10mm wrench have slightly smaller diameter hose barbed nipples regardless their overall larger appearance. Even on those I had to warm the 1/8" tygon tubing to get it to press over the barbs. Even the 5/16" tygon tube is a snug fit. There are 5 of those: clutch, Lt Ft Lower, Rt Ft Lower, AD, and the Rear Lower. The other 3 need the 8mm wrench and appear less stout, but have a very slightly larger single barbed nipple.

There has to be some reason Honda used the different parts, economy of scale would dictate such unless there is a reason. Then again, folks typically order speed bleeders all the same size to replace them.

Anyone here have an idea why the two different type of bleeder screws?

prs
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top