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I know brake bleeding has to be done in the order set forth in the shop manual but my question is - what happens if the order is not followed?
 

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You know what Larry, that was a very good question, Cause I bet yea, 99% of us ALL thought the exact same question............Thank you Kiwi an SSNcob (for your answer)(y) it now makes sense

Ronnie
11/25/21
 

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If you're replacing fluid, you'll probably never know you used the wrong order, since you don't introduce air into the system. If you replaced a hose, caliper, etc., and you're actually trying to remove air, I'll bet kiwi is exactly right.
 

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No matter what vehicle you're working on, the same rule should be applied.

Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work to the closest wheel.
 
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No matter what vehicle you're working on, the same rule should be applied.

Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work to the closest wheel.
Motorcycles can be a bit different and not nearly so simple. Most vehicles have the single master cylinder fill at the high point and all bleeders relatively low and at the same relative level. Proportional valves, secondary master cylinders, front/rear master cylinders, linked systems, abs (optional), anti-dive valves, etc. make some bikes very step specific or you will chase air bubbles and soft brake action forever. The Wing isn't so bad, but do a Honda ST1300 in any random order and you won't accomplish much as far as removing air from the system.
There is a reason for the order of steps in the manual(s).
 
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Front Brake Reservoir

1: Front Right Brake Upper Bleeder Valve 8mm

2: Front Left Brake Middle/lower Bleeder Valve 10mm

Rear Reservoir (under right side chrome)

1: Front Left Brake Upper Bleeder Valve 8mm

2: Front Right Brake Lower Bleeder Valve 10mm

3: Rear Brake Lower Bleeder Valve 8mm

4: Anti-Dive: bleeder valve on top 10mm

5: Rear Brake Upper Bleeder Valve 10mm
 
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