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Discussion Starter #1
When I bought my new '09 at Thanksgiving, I had to trailer it back from North Carolina -- wasn't up to riding that far so soon after my fall, and the blizzard conditions in Ohio and Michigan would've been "fun".
I guess it's likely due to the crap that was thrown up on the trailer and bike from those roads, but I now have a brake caliper (or calipers) that's are retracting ... looks like light rust on the cylinders. With the pads dragging on the rotor that way, I really don't want to simply ride it down to the local stealers to get it looked at ... so my question: is it going to cause any problems if I use the good ole handy WD40 spray can to unstick the caliper cylinders?
 

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is it going to cause any problems if I use the good ole handy WD40 spray can to unstick the caliper cylinders?
I wouldn't use WD-40 on anything I cared about. WD-40 has a tarnished history of leaving a gummy, varnish-like residue on surfaces that get hot. And your brake parts surely do get nice 'n hot.

There are greases that you can buy at the auto parts store made specifically for use on disc brakes. Or you can get a can of Ballistol (an extremely pure, non-hardening, non-yellowing mineral oil) at many gun shops.
 

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I agree, with Astute Reader, and I don't like WD40 for the same reasons he mentions.

You really need to remove each caliper and clean the pistons off by hand with denatured alcohol and a toothbrush and rag and blow out any dirt with compressed air. I would not put any lube on them, as it could cause the seals to leak and just make things worse. Also, if you got any lubricant on the pads or rotor it would contaiminate your brake pads.

The ONLY place I use any lube on brake parts is on the caliper slide pins, and there I use special brake grease, and very sparingly, being carful not to get it on any other parts.
 

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Crush;

Methinks our colleagues are too harsh on ole WD. IF you remove the pads and then use a narrow tooth brush and solvent (WD 40 or a 60:40 water to Ballistol mix) to clean the pistons I think you will accomplish your remedy without doing any harm. You can use compressed air to blow out any excess residual. The remaining residual WD will not gum-up the pistons and if you use the Ballistol the water component will evaporate and leave the tiny residual of oil emulsion behind. Before replacing your pads and brake lubed pins, do clean the rotors with detergent water and dry. Alcohol is fine for final cleaning of the rotors, but may weaken rubber piston seals.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #5
<sigh> Dang! Thanks guys ... I was hoping I could be lazy and not have to rip the brakes apart, but you convinced me. I guess instead of riding this weekend, I'll have to do some actual maintenance. Sucks to have to do all that work on a bike with 60 miles on it ... but the alternative is rather costly ... :shock:
 

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I didn't realize this was a new bike with just 60 miles on it.

What makes you think the brakes are binding? If all you are hearing is some rubbing when you roll the bike, that probably is normal. Can you actually see rust on the caliper pistons?

I would be really surprised if you had stuck brake caliper pistons on a bike this new.
 

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I would ride the bike a bit, stop, check for over heating. Then try again.

It is common to have a slight dragging noise with these kind of brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I didn't realize this was a new bike with just 60 miles on it.

What makes you think the brakes are binding? If all you are hearing is some rubbing when you roll the bike, that probably is normal. Can you actually see rust on the caliper pistons?

I would be really surprised if you had stuck brake caliper pistons on a bike this new.

well, when I backed it out of the garage in order to move the other bikes around (and to wipe the road grime off), it was a b*tch to move, and when I looked at the front rotors, I could see the pistons extended and the brake pads sitting on the rotors. At a glance, it looked like light rust on the pistons. It has been sitting in the unheated garage from Thanksgiving, when I brought it back from NC, until a couple of weeks ago when it was warm enough to push it out and clean it.

I hadn't really worried about it until I was ready to rise it ... since I had no intention of giving our governator the sales tax until I HAD to ...

I tried to use "gentle" persuasion using my fingers to push them back, but no go ....
 

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.

The brake pads will touch the brake rotor.. There are no springs to push them back from the rotor.. just the motion of the rotor moves the pistons as far as necessary.

Go ride it a mile or two, I bet you a dollar to a donut that all will be just fine... Sure, it sat on a trailer in some pretty crappy weather, its going to have all kinds of crud all over the brakes and wheels. Brakes are like your eyes, they are self cleaning. Go ride it. come back with a few miles of smiles !



JMHO :cool:




 

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The brake pads will touch the brake rotor.. There are no springs to push them back from the rotor.. just the motion of the rotor moves the pistons as far as necessary.

Go ride it a mile or two, I bet you a dollar to a donut that all will be just fine... Sure, it sat on a trailer in some pretty crappy weather, its going to have all kinds of crud all over the brakes and wheels. Brakes are like your eyes, they are self cleaning. Go ride it. come back with a few miles of smiles !



JMHO :cool:




I agree, I would go ride it and just keep an eye on it. The pistons have a brass color to them so what you may be thinking is rust may be their natural color. I bet you will find there isn't anything wrong with them at all.

If you're really worried about it, just blow around the pistons real good with some compressed air. That should blow out any foreign debris or brake dust.
 

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yep I'm with Fred and previous KA7W no WD and if it's appears to be locking it's warranty only takes a very short time for them to fix it maybe got a little salt water on it picking it up
they drag a bit working like they should , just put a bottle jack under the front of engine after a very short ride and see how it turns should rub slightly but not be hard at all to turn the wheel only raise the wheel about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off ground
I am asuming this is front brake!
 

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when i got about 500 mile on my 07 both the front and rear brakes started to drag on the rotors to the point you could smell hot brakes it took it the dealer and they checked it and said it was normal but when i had to have the front tire replaced i took it to a differant shop.
I told them about the brake problem they checked it and said it was from told much fluid in the res and also moisture that caused the piston to rust a bit he asked me where my bike came from and i told him californa he said the rust was from the salt air in calif he cleaned it up put the right amount of fluid in the res and all is good now.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks guys ... I'll quit worrying and start riding. Y'know, it never dawned on me, as many times as I've changed pads on the OldWing, that there was nothing pulling the piston BACK after you applied them ... but after KA7W mentioned it, the lightbulb turned on.
 

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You might want to check to see if your rotors feel hot after a ride. I used to check mine and the fronts were always cool and the back slightly warm (probably because of some radiant heat from final drive etc.) but never hot.
 

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thanks guys ... I'll quit worrying and start riding. Y'know, it never dawned on me, as many times as I've changed pads on the OldWing, that there was nothing pulling the piston BACK after you applied them ... but after KA7W mentioned it, the lightbulb turned on.

Are you the Peter Dahl of Transformer fame ?? Peter Dahl built some very nice transformers over the years and some years back he closed shop and retired and I have not heard of him since.


Just curious



JMHO :cool:



 

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Are you the Peter Dahl of Transformer fame ?? Peter Dahl built some very nice transformers over the years and some years back he closed shop and retired and I have not heard of him since.


Just curious



JMHO :cool:
Might be this guy!!
 
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