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Discussion Starter #1
My bike has about 30k miles on it and it's torn down for Traxxion upgrades. We have done several 2k and multiple 1k mile trips 2 up fully loaded (on twister roads, not all highway) and I suspect my pad wear may be heavier than some.

I'm wondering about brake pad replacement options, OEM vs. Emco (?) that Hal sells. Anyone using something different - I'm looking for more aggressive stopping power rather than longer life.

I guess I've gotten a bit spoiled with stopping power of sportier bikes and would like a bit more bite.

Thanks.
 

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First step is to inspect your pads. If there is still a good bit of "fresh meat on the bones" why toss it to the buzzards? If the pads are contaminated or glazed then consider a change. If the rotors are glazed, deglaze them with a brake degalzing tool (do a search on this site for example) and clean them with brake cleaner. At your milage, it is time to remove and inspect the original pads and upon reassembly to use the silicoane lube on the pivot/retainer pins. This is all very easy to do, but the brake system is so important regarding saftey taht if you are not very familiar, then seek experienced help.

I use OEM pads. There are reports of more effective or more aggressive pads, but the reports also sugget shorter service life and increased rotor errosion with them. I also notice that teh OE pads are capable of lockng the front and rear brakes even on ideal road surfaces, so I see no advantage to useing more grippy pads; especially on a non ABS bike like mine.

BTW; at your milage you are also over due on brake fluid relacement and that also makes a great difference in brake power (contaminated fluid biols at the caliper puck area and resuts in fade).

prs
 

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I just replaced pads with the OEM. I didn't think my originals were all that worn but the new set really made a big difference. Much more "bite" than I expected. They wear out so slowly you forget how well the bike used to stop. About 36,000 mostly highway miles.
 

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I gey My pads and most service parts from Gary at this link, I think his brake pads the really good ones are much better quality I tried alot and His are excellent , VERY goodfolks to deal with, take care.

http://verhulstbikes-n-trikes.com/
 

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I have 25k miles and just cheked my pads. Good thing I did. they are getting pretty thin so I will change them with OEM's. I also noticed that in the last few months the front brake lever is much harder to pull than it used to be and the braking effectiveness seems to have diminished. Any ideas what might be the problem there?

Ride safe,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
also noticed that in the last few months the front brake lever is much harder to pull than it used to be and the braking effectiveness seems to have diminished. Any ideas what might be the problem there?
Maybe changing brake fluid as Pigeon Roost suggests. I'm lazy and have a zillion maintenance items being tackled on the wing this winter, changing brake fluid was NOT what I wanted to hear, but guess it's time.

I have a cheapo drain bottle setup with a couple of tubes that lead to it...used it on another bike before and it worked OK ... just takes a lot of time.
 

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Changing fluid is one of the easier jobs and should be done yearly, at least.
 

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Been some reports of the litte port in the bottom of the hand brake master cylinder getting clogged when using old brake fluid; by what is reported it can be a PIA to fix.

Brakes being harder to appy to get same effectiveness sounds more like contaminated pads. Typically poor brake fluid leads to fade and muchy brakes. But- maybe some one else knows lots more.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #9
doesn't anyone here use anything but OEM????

Boy Scouts of Honda :lol:
 

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I am a little confused. Once the wheels are locked up and sliding down the road, I doubt quickening the lock-up will be usefull.

The OEM pads stop my thousand pound "Elephant" quite effectively.

Bulldog
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Great to hear that Max... please keep us informed...

I'm looking to buy as soon as you know, my shock's in to y'all and I' waiting for the fork oil to come back with it - I'm lazy and everything's torn down for maintenace

Bulldog, I think the concept is to prevent lockup by being able to get more bite and feel without a death grip on the lever
 

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Bulldog said:
I am a little confused. Once the wheels are locked up and sliding down the road, I doubt quickening the lock-up will be usefull.

The OEM pads stop my thousand pound "Elephant" quite effectively.

Bulldog
You need to ride a Traxxion equipped bike... :wink:

I could skid the front on a stocker all day long. I can't with our kit. 8)

Past that, I will have two compounds here to test from Vesrah, and we'll see if they improve stopping distance, and feel.

"Feel" is a big one for guys who like to do twisties, and people who do a lot of city driving.

If you don't want to put all four fingers on the lever and pull as hard as you can, and stand on the rear brake lever to get the bike to stop quickly, then that's what better pads do for you.

They require less effort to get the same force.

As far as improving stopping distance, I have found there are some "large" wing owners, with some "slightly larger than average passengers" who tow trailers who would like the bike to stop better.

(was that the politically correct way to state that? :p :lol: :lol: :lol: )
 

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I dunno guys,i think max is sayin some of us wing riders have big a$$,s,and our wives do taboot,i dont know what to think of this guy,may hafta have trialsman pay him a vist,his profile seems to list him in the same general area :lol: OLE YELLER MBG PA
 

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Changing fluid is one of the easier jobs and should be done yearly, at least
Waaaaaa? Change the brake fluid more than once a year??

In all the vehicles I have ever owned I have never "changed" the brake fluid.

Why on earth would one want to change the brake fluid yearly, let alone more than once a year.

Silliest thing I ever heard!

Jeepers these Wings are a piece of crap...gotta add nitrogen to the tires, change brake fluid a couple times a year, the engine oil thing is a complete mystery.....then there is the crush washer issue...the wobble....tires cupping...the list goes on and on.

I still don't understand why my Wing is so trouble free...I turn the key and off I go for miles of carefree fun.

What am I doing wrong?
 

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"Why on earth would one want to change the brake fluid yearly, let alone more than once a year.

Silliest thing I ever heard!"

I go for every two years using the Valvoline Syn stuff and it still looks pretty good at that, but the stuff Honda is using does not look so good at even one year -- pretty dark and cruddy by then. We do pamper the beast to death though.

prs
 

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Bulldog said:
I am a little confused. Once the wheels are locked up and sliding down the road, I doubt quickening the lock-up will be usefull.

The OEM pads stop my thousand pound "Elephant" quite effectively.

Bulldog
Dog; that was my point from earlier post. Its not easy to slide the front wheel and I can not do it all day long (tends to be chancy about throwing your ars hard onto the pavement if you try to actually slide the front). Its also hard to hang on in usch a power stop -- my body in motion tends to stay in motion even as th bke is stopped :shock: . Might have to hook my spurs under her girth :wink: .

However; one might get more bang per effort on such a brake improvement project if the first step was a good set of braded brake lines. But, like Max was sort of saying, most of us sure don't need brakes that grab so aggressivley that they are hard to control -- needs to come on smooth and progressviely.

prs
 

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Bulldog said:
I am a little confused. Once the wheels are locked up and sliding down the road, I doubt quickening the lock-up will be usefull.

The OEM pads stop my thousand pound "Elephant" quite effectively.

Bulldog
Any pads will work for one emergency stop as you describe. Big deal.
The test of good brake pads is how they do after they get heated up. there's nothing like the feeling of coming off a short straight only to find your brakes have gone out on you as you're turning in.
 

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I NEVER use oem pads I think there junk, but lots of people use organic cheap pads on there care it's just what you want you usually et what you pay for in most things. C'mon you guys it takes what 30 minutes to change brake and clutch fluid once a year, no you don't have to do it for years it just good ole preventative maint.
 

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Honda pads are very good.
Honda HRC pads are some of the best there are.
But HRC is not an option on the GL. And I'm not willing to use pads that destroy my rotors. So I'm hoping these sintered pads from Max will do the trick.
 
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