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Brake Pads

12K views 70 replies 29 participants last post by  iride4u 
#1 ·
With the past threads about front brake pads being wore out at around 14k miles or so...and some have reported uneven front brake pad wear...I finally pulled my front brake pads out to inspect at 15k miles...pads on both sides of the bike were wore pretty evenly, but I was surprised how much they were wore down at only 15k miles. I think the pads could had gone another 5k miles but since I had new pads I changed them out anyways...Im thinking the front brake pads might make 20k miles but I would definitely inspect the front pads on this bike with every tire change...OEM pads for this bike are very pricey...I thought the OEM pads were expensive for the old wing but Honda has topped that...160 dollars for front brake pads from my local dealer...anyways keep your eye on the brake pads with this bike.
Wall Wood Brick Metal
 
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#3 ·
The front should be about 41 to 42 dollars per set. I figure to get 2 sets up front per one or more in rear. No?

prs
 
#5 ·
Wingstuff has them at $69.99 per set and you need to order 2 sets. $140 for the front alone seems pretty steep. The rear set is another $80 bucks. I found the EBC pads for $28 a set from Cyclemax. Anyone tried these on the 18+ Wings? I've always gone OEM, but the wear folks have been seeing and the price point of the EBC certainly gives one reason to pause!
 
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#9 ·
Nope. But those expensive bolts are said to be needed to replaced due to the air curing locker agent wearing. VibraTite VC-3 can be applied and allowed to cure before replacing the bolts, that product seems to be a little stronger than what Honda used or I got it on a little thicker - a tiny bit goes far.

prs
 
#14 ·
That is a common solution (pardon the pun). The VibraTite VC-3 appears to be the same/similar air curing substance as used by Honda on those and some other "alox" treated bolts.

prs
 
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#13 ·
My 18 Tour DCT has 16,051 miles on it and I am replacing both sides front pads. Mine was showing signs of the left inside pad wearing faster than the outside, but I couldn't get any interest in the dealer to do anything about it. I bought an extra set of front brake pads a while back so I would have some if I needed them. While doing the 16,000 mile service last week I removed the pads and measured them. The inside I had 1mm left and the outside had 2mm remaining. Each side was the same. I was really surprised because usually one side that is activated with the front brake will wear faster than the other, but since this front brake system is different that the older Wings, they are wearing about the same. I did notice the manual says they don't need to be replaced until they get to the bottom of the wear grooves, but 1mm is still showing the lines and I don't want to have to keep checking them every week to see when the lines are gone and take a chance of ruining my rotors.
My plan now is with new brakes on both sides, at 24,000 miles I will remove the pads and swap the pads on each side. Take the inside pad and put it on the outside, and the outside, put on the inside. Do that for both sides. I am hoping by the time I get to 32,000 miles the pads will have even wear and I can judge then how long I can let them go before replacing them.
I got my front pads at the local Honda dealer and they are $67.34 OTD for each set.
 
#27 ·
I was thinking like you...these pads sure do look thin with 1 mm even though the wear line is still there. I was scared to take the chance and like you didnt want to keep inspecting every few weeks to make sure the rotor didn't get damaged
 
#16 ·
Changed mine at 10K. The inner left pad was almost completely gone. Didn't want to ruin the rotor this riding season. The right side was wearing even. Maybe it's my riding style, I only use my rear brake 75% of the time, but I'm not aggressive at all with my riding. I don't know which side on the front the rear pedal uses, maybe that caused the uneven wear. IDK
Another thing I've noticed is the really bad dusting with the new wings pads. I think Honda went with a softer pad material.
My old Goldwings pads lasted at least 40 to 50K miles, but it was the floating style caliper.
Maybe Honda should have stayed with that design on the front.
 
#20 ·
Inthewind, on the 2018+ the hand brake activates the lower pistons of the front calipers. The foot brake activates the top pistons of the front calipers and the rear caliper. The previous generation was more complicated and I forget which does all or some of what, ;-)

It seems that different owners are reporting different patterns of uneven wear. When replacing pads, I plan on a thorough cleaning of the calipers and a very light lube of the grooves in the calipers where in the "ears" of the pads slide. Probably use a cotton swab applicator with a little copper anti-sieze as lube since that stuff is not so bad to collect grime.

prs
 
#21 ·
Inthewind, on the 2018+ the hand brake activates the lower pistons of the front calipers. The foot brake activates the top pistons of the front calipers and the rear caliper. The previous generation was more complicated and I forget which does all or some of what, ;-)

It seems that different owners are reporting different patterns of uneven wear. When replacing pads, I plan on a thorough cleaning of the calipers and a very light lube of the grooves in the calipers where in the "ears" of the pads slide. Probably use a cotton swab applicator with a little copper anti-sieze as lube since that stuff is not so bad to collect grime.

prs
I got confused, aren't the front brakes activating all pistons in the front caliper?
I think I am tracking what you are saying about a rear brake only application.
Thanks
 
#22 ·
To ALL the Motorheads,
I've read ALL the comments to date. I have a very general question. As I read your comments/suggestions, etc., my gut is telling me that if I do bring my 2018 DCT to a Honda dealer for, lets say brakes, there is NO WAY they are going to be as thorough as you guys. Please tell me I'm wrong. Like I say, it's just my 65 year old life's experience gut talking. I just don't see MOST dealers doing the things you guys are talking about. Locktite, etc.

Am I wrong ??

Thanks.
 
#34 ·
To ALL the Motorheads,
I've read ALL the comments to date. I have a very general question. As I read your comments/suggestions, etc., my gut is telling me that if I do bring my 2018 DCT to a Honda dealer for, lets say brakes, there is NO WAY they are going to be as thorough as you guys. Please tell me I'm wrong. Like I say, it's just my 65 year old life's experience gut talking. I just don't see MOST dealers doing the things you guys are talking about. Locktite, etc.
Am I wrong ??
Thanks.
Depends on the expertise of the techs at the dealership. I have a top notch Honda dealership near me and have no qualms about having them perform maintenance on my bike including brakes.
?
 
#24 · (Edited)
The 2018 DCT front calibers each have 6 pistons (3 inboard & 3 outboard). The center pistons on both sides are controlled by the rear brake pedal and the end ones are controlled by the hand lever. So when the rear brake pedal is pushed both front calipers are activated and the center piston pushes the pads onto the disk rotor. Unlike other brake systems that only activate one of the two front caliper.
Watch Freds video on how he cleans the calipers before pushing the pistons back into the caliper.
prs looks like we posted at same time. Thanks for posting the service manual page, I didn't locate it, just went from memory
 
#32 ·
The rear brake is plumbed to the front brake calipers, in a similar was as the previous generation Wing was. The front brake lever is electrically linked. It uses the ABS pump motor to not only boost applied brake pressure, but also to apply brake pressure to the rear brake.

366564
366565
 
#35 ·
Dang Fred! That first diagram gave me a headache! Way complicated. Wouldn't that front to rear and rear to front system co-mingle only apply if the ABS were applied?

prs
 
#36 ·
Dang Fred! That first diagram gave me a headache! Way complicated. Wouldn't that front to rear and rear to front system co-mingle only apply if the ABS were applied?

prs
The ABS pump is used to boost brake pressure every time the front brake is applied, and it also applies the rear brakes. The amount of boost pressure it applies to the rear depends on the riding mode selected.
 
#37 ·
So in the diagram, the communication is done via SRP1 - M - SRP2 ? That is the only path I see. I was unaware of the eletronic linking.

Thanks!

prs
 
#38 ·
If one was riding a trike (Roadsmith) [or actually any model] how much difference will the braking system be??

Ronnie
 
#42 ·
OMG! That is a rip off. I just replaced my front/rear at 29k...front needed replacing. Rear could go another 10k I think.

OMG! Dealer ripoff! Check out #1 Powersports Dealer | Babbitt's in West MI | New & Used for parts. Front & rear about $115.
i got 29k out of my front pads. But I have an F6B and always ride solo, so I’d expect a lighter bike to have less wear.
Ride safe!!
Yea with my old wing, I would get around 30k miles with the OEM pads...but this new wing is a different animal...maybe 20k with the OEM front brake pads...but the brakes are better than those on the old wing too...yea, I always try to support my local dealer with OEM parts...but they got me this time around with the front brake pads.
 
#41 ·
Pad wear varies on how you use them. Aggressive braking or stop-and-go riding will wear them quicker.
The fronts on my 07 ABS wing seem to go about 15,000 for the left caliper. Double that for the right.About 30,000 for the rear. OEM only.

That $160: Was that installed? For both front sets? Dealers are known to gouge on prices, but that is outrageous.
 
#43 ·
That $160: Was that installed? For both front sets? Dealers are known to gouge on prices, but that is outrageous.
The 160 was what my dealer charged just for the pads...both sides.

I could had saved around 40 dollars if I ordered online...but the OEM brake pads for this new wing are expensive no matter where you buy them from.
 
#44 ·
It makes no sense that these puny motorcycle pads cost more than automotive pads which are more than 3X bigger.
 
#47 ·
Just did my first front brake pads and brake fluid change on my tour with the help of Fred's video's. I have just over 18k on it and its a good thing I didn't wait any longer, the left bottom pads were almost completely gone. I've never done a brake job before but Fred's video makes it so easy. Next task is the rear brakes when I replace the rear tire in a couple more thousand miles.
 
#49 ·
Here are a couple of reasons:
The first is heat. When the brake pad grabs the rotor, it creates friction, which creates heat. If that heat can't escape, it leads to brake fade, which reduces the brakes' stopping power.

The last reason is water. If a car drives through a puddle, a carwash or even a rainstorm, the brake rotors can get wet. A wet brake rotor is slippery and difficult for the brake pads to grab. Having drilled holes on a brake rotor makes it easy for heat and water to be quickly moved away from the rotor surface, keeping the brake performance strong.
 
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#50 ·
I remember back in the late 70's my friends and I would drill holes in the rotors..mainly because we thought it looked so cool and the racing bikes of the time had them..it wasnt long after that the factorys started to do it.
 
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