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Fork seals went South on a trip and got the pads wet. Forks are done and now I'm looking for new Pads.
I'm an OEM guy so I so started a search. There used to be a dealer who supported this board. Do we still have one?

If not, here are prices I've gotten from 3 on line sellers. Funny that the least expensive is one that charges shipping...

 

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On the top of the page there is a series of dot/dashes, just left of where your avatar picture or sign in button is. That is not Morse code but a link to the full forum listing. Click there and on that forum list page, near the bottom, is a listing of the sponsors/vendors. Wingstuff has brake pads.

Since we're on the GL1800 site, I assume that's what we're talking about and not the GL1500 with sidecar nor the Valkyrie in your signature (Great bikes!). I recently bought my pads for my GL1800 from a favorite GW parts supplier. The fronts were $41 per set and the rears $45. Shipping is free above $199 which I was as I also had other things.

There are occasionally links to fleaBAY with better pricing on allegedly Honda pads. I don't use fleaBAY for anything so I can't speak on those specific pads just general dissatisfaction with many of their sellers.

I also see your RAM in your signature. I have a RAM, also with the 6.4 liter. Happy with mine and it has done everything I have asked of it so far.
 

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Usually OEM pads are less than $55 per set.


If oil got on the pads, it probably got all over the rubber boots that protect the slide pins that allow your calipers to move back and forth as the pads wear. If so those will need replaced too, and the caliper(s) degreased. Often the caliper cover, fork cover, and back part of the front fender too. Sometime the cleanup job means that the lower center cowl needs removed and cleaned too. Usually the rotor needs removed and cleaned using a round brush and solvent run all those small holes. After, cleaning all the plastic and rotor in solvent, next clean it with soap (Dawn) and water.

I clean the calipers with BrakeClean (red can). Depending on the mess, you'll probably need 2-4 cans. The easiest way I've found is spraying with a setup like this. However, usually the forks are attached, but hopefully you get the idea of how to contain the mess. The idea is when all said and done, there is no oil film left behind. Those rubber calipers parts, once fork oil gets on them, swell up making them no longer able to fiction as designed.

If its the right caliper, my normal parts kit includes parts #3, 6(2), 7, 8, 9, 13, 14, and 15. Once the wheel is removed, and the right caliper unbolted from the fork, the 2 halves slide apart to separate. Be sure to lube the slide pins using caliper lube, and lube the small o-ring that goes on the end of the pin that holds the pads in place.

If it's the left caliper, it's a different story. Unfortunanly you will not be able to slide the caliper apart without removing 2 brake hoses. The same parts list is used as above, except that the pads have a different number. You'll also need brake fluid, and crush washers once the brake lines are removed 90545-300-000(4). Don't forget to bleed the entire front and rear brake system and torque everything correctly.

If you take your time and do a good job, there should be not oil film left behind to transfer on your new pads, and none even if it rains and everything gets wet.

The calipers below are not getting cleaned. The setup is for a picture only.
379663
 

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Try Ebay

Item 151512232090 OEM pads

You get both sides for $89 Free shipping to. Got mine in several days
 

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