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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all

I have an 07 w/ABS, Nav, and approx 21,000 miles. I have been practicing slow speed 360 turns. I notice that when I feather the rear brake I get a shutter feeling. Only happens with slow speed maneuvers. If I traveling on the road and stop at a light the brakes are smooth as silk both rear alone as well as rear and front together. Anyone know the remedy? Or is it the the nature of linked braking systems? Thanks
 

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It's very common on the old GL1800's. It usually only manifest itself when it get hot out. You can perform the Rocky bleed and it will usually help for awhile.
 

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Google is your friend...like biglefti said, “gl1800 rocky bleed”. The key is the proportioning valve mounted high on the front end has an air bubble that likes to bounce around and cause issues... my ‘03 needs it done also, but it hasn’t set in one place long enough for it to get done!

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Pm'd "rocky bleed" to you. If you've not flushed your entire system now would be the time complete it as well.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

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Hello all

I have an 07 w/ABS, Nav, and approx 21,000 miles. I have been practicing slow speed 360 turns. I notice that when I feather the rear brake I get a shutter feeling. Only happens with slow speed maneuvers. If I traveling on the road and stop at a light the brakes are smooth as silk both rear alone as well as rear and front together. Anyone know the remedy? Or is it the the nature of linked braking systems? Thanks
Its often a non-reproducible issue that will only happen on hotter days when only using the rear brake. You can do all the various bleeding procedures that want, but in the end the only real solution is to use both brakes.

However, be sure to do a proper inspection of your brakes.
 

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Fixed my shudder on the ‘01 after it came back from the brake recall with the problem...

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The steps Rocky provided CURED my shudder PERMANENTLY on the 2002; at least until the brake recall, after which it returned. Completed another Rocky bleed and the shudder was CURED again. Now, anything that allows air into the lines is likely to reintroduce that pesky air pocket in the junction box above the AD valve. Honda should have put a bleeder there instead of us having to use that compression fitting as a bleeder.

Now, this foolishness of always using both brakes together is contrary to proper slow speed turning. Use that front brake in certain situations and you will kiss pavement. But during such slower speed rear brake maneuvers is precisely when that annoying shudder is most likely to raise its ugly head.

prs
 
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Discussion Starter #10
“Now, this foolishness of always using both brakes together is contrary to proper slow speed turning. Use that front brake in certain situations and you will kiss pavement. But during such slower speed rear brake maneuvers is precisely when that annoying shudder is most likely to raise its ugly head.”

That’s the exact issue I’m having.
 

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The "linked" braking system Honda uses is pretty complicated and some of the bleeder valves are not in the highest points in the system (at least on my ST1300-I've yet to get into it on the Wing). Proper bleeding procedure is essential and I'm sure the procedure mentioned/linked will get you thru it.
 

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You really need a hinged flare nut wrench fit the banjo bolt cracked open for the rocky bleed. I believe its a 12/14mm double ended wrench I bought. Also need decent 8mm and 10mm wrenches for the bleed valves, and lastly a second person to pump and hold the brakes while you open and close the valves. If you have the means install speed bleeders and it becomes a quick one man job. I use a clear tube about 18" long and stuff out ink the top of a soda can with the tab trading the hose. Use a new bottle of DOT4 fluid, a large bottle allows you to pretty much flush the entire stem until it runs clear out the valves.

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I attempted the "Rocky" bleed last week. I used a picture of the fitting to verify I was bleeding the correct one (the one up under the front fairing). When I crack it open, depressing the brake pedal didn't result in any fluid. I also tried to compress the secondary master cylinder (by lifting it) and still could not get any fluid out of the fitting. What am I doing wrong?
 

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I attempted the "Rocky" bleed last week. I used a picture of the fitting to verify I was bleeding the correct one (the one up under the front fairing). When I crack it open, depressing the brake pedal didn't result in any fluid. I also tried to compress the secondary master cylinder (by lifting it) and still could not get any fluid out of the fitting. What am I doing wrong?
Was the pedal hard? The most direct connection between the junction block at the stem and the rest of the system is the secondary master cylinder. The rear pedal pressure goes through the delay valve prior to getting to the “front” of the system. If the pedal wasn’t hard or pumping up hard, it sounds like there’s a lot of air up there. You may need to just snug the junction connection, then jack the front end up using the secondary MC to put enough pressure on it to get the air out and the fluid to move. With the weight of the front end on it, you should get some fluid coming out when cracked open.

Jacking the front end up with the secondary MC is how the test in the service bulletin for the proportioning control valve was checked, so we know this won’t hurt the SMC
 

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The brake pedal felt firm-ish. I would like it to be firmer, but it was about as firm as it's been before I started flushing/bleeding.

I had the bike up on a jack (JS Jack). I'll try it again with the bike on the ground and then jack up the front from under the secondary master cylinder as you've said.

Do you think I should get fluid out of the joint by pressing the brake pedal? Perhaps I just didn't have the joint opened enough? It's not a true bleeder valve, after all.

I did notice, however, that the rear brake shudder is worse now than it was before the flush/bleed - so I've probably let more air in there through my actions.

Thanks Rob,
 

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The brake pedal felt firm-ish. I would like it to be firmer, but it was about as firm as it's been before I started flushing/bleeding.

I had the bike up on a jack (JS Jack). I'll try it again with the bike on the ground and then jack up the front from under the secondary master cylinder as you've said.

Do you think I should get fluid out of the joint by pressing the brake pedal? Perhaps I just didn't have the joint opened enough? It's not a true bleeder valve, after all.

I did notice, however, that the rear brake shudder is worse now than it was before the flush/bleed - so I've probably let more air in there through my actions.

Thanks Rob,
You will get fluid from the joint when pushing the pedal, it’s just not at the same force as with the SMC because of the delay valve doing it’s job. There’s nothing to slow or obstruct the flow from the SMC. It’s not easy to do and a little more dangerous while the front is jacked with the SMC, so be careful.
 

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“Now, this foolishness of always using both brakes together is contrary to proper slow speed turning. Use that front brake in certain situations and you will kiss pavement.
For a 5th gen, can you share when ??? The only one that I know of is for one equipped with ABS, on a steep gravel driveways, coming into a turn, and when heading downhill :(

But gravel is not pavement.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was agreeing with Pigeon Roost’s comment regarding front brake use in a tight ⭕ maneuver. I have ABS and when brakes get warm rear brake really shutters when using for slow speed turn. Using front brake in that situation would not be pleasant. Thanks for all your valuable insights.
 
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