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If it were me I would have spent 10 min to try and diagnose the issue in my garage vs spend god knows how much dealing with bringing the bike to the dealer.
He comes from the Harley world. It is a very different experience there. He would have had a new battery installed in an hour. If it was going to take any longer than that they would have given him a bike to ride around on to pass the time.

Seen it happen a couple of times on the road with buddies that needed work done.
 

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2022 DCT Non-Touring
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Not sure what one could do on a new motorcycle after insuring the ignition was off before walking away that could lead one to believe operator error? No it’s not on the center stand and yes dash and all electronics off as I walk away. After waiting 2 weeks for an OEM battery the Honda dealer has no idea how long the wait is . I went to Batteries plus today and purchased the rebranded Deka / Duracell . Yes I have it on the trickle charger. The dealer will install it for me tomorrow. A battery is a normal maintenance item and to have no availability? My only reference in the motorcycle world is dozen plus Harley’s I’ve owned . We lost the local Harley dealer and I bought this from the Honda dealer that was right next door to them . They maybe physically 100 feet apart but my customer experience has been miles apart INTHEWIND I do appreciate you supplying the battery part number thank you
Come on now. You can't find tires right now, either. Be reasonable.
 
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Don’t see how this thread has gone on so long with so much bickering.
All you need is a multi-meter and it’s pretty easy to check if you have any parasitic draw, if the charging system working, etc.
What you suggest is checking current draw, which means removing a battery terminal to put the meter in-line to see how many milliamps it is drawing. Now if Honda put a shunt inline so we can take our readings from there it would be nice. Checking just voltage, which I assume is what you are suggesting, would make it difficult to find any parasitic draw in the milliamp range. I would expect a certain amount of current draw as we have systems that need to stay alive to operate the key fob system and whatever other systems that draw current.

Hey, maybe Max could build and sell us a shunt to install inline and have a digital ammeter on our dash. :)
 
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What you suggest is checking current draw, which means removing a battery terminal to put the meter in-line to see how many milliamps it is drawing. Now if Honda put a shunt inline so we can take our readings from there it would be nice. Checking just voltage, which I assume is what you are suggesting, would make it difficult to find any parasitic draw in the milliamp range. I would expect a certain amount of current draw as we have systems that need to stay alive to operate the key fob system and whatever other systems that draw current.

Hey, maybe Max could build and sell us a shunt to install inline and have a digital ammeter on our dash. :)
Really no need for that, A DVM and 5 minutes to pull off the battery cover and a neg cable, and your in business:).
Max could make a video explaining and showing how.

Sorry for the crappy picture, phone camera sucks.
1.2 mA max leakage.
Motor vehicle Font Parallel Rectangle Paper
 

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Really no need for that, A DVM and 5 minutes to pull off the battery cover and a neg cable, and your in business:).
Max could make a video explaining and showing how.

Sorry for the crappy picture, phone camera sucks.
1.2 mA max leakage.
View attachment 405796
Ha? That's exactly what I said, you gotta disconnect the cable from the battery and put the ammeter inline. What I was adding is if Honda or an aftermarket company made an ammeter as an accessory we could install the shunt inline and NEVER have to disconnect the battery cable for diagnosis. The main reason why I would prefer this method over disconnecting the cable is you run the risk of releasing a stuck relay or other circuit that might be the problem you're trying to diagnose. There's many techniques one can use to diagnose problems and intentionally or unintentionally doing a hard reset should only be used as a last resort.
 
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Even though the shunt is old school, you could use a CT (Current Transformer) to just snap on to take your readings and can be permanently left on. Ford uses them on their cars/trucks to monitor real time battery and charging conditions.

Current Transformer Design, shop DCT-0016-100 - Magnelab

 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
blood boiling . Bought a battery yesterday at batteries plus and dealer agreed to put it in as after waiting two weeks they have no idea when an OEM will come. . I rode the bike yesterday and my rides consists of mostly 150 mile loops because I am afraid to shut the bike off away from home. I trickle charged the new glass pack battery all night put in the saddlebag to ride to the dealer and once again the bike would not start. There is no rur rur click click like times before there is simply nothing. Dash lights and headlights appear to be 100% strong . I put the battery on a 10amp charge and within minutes the charger reads charged . I check and 13.76 Volts. Turn the ignition on and hear a click I've never heard before. I realize ( and took a video) as soon as the ignition is engaged it puts the bike into first gear and renders the starter inactive. Once again there is no way to start the bike and no way to get it out of first gear as everything is electronic. I tried everything ,on the kick stand, off the kickstand , on the centerstand, nothing . Finally with ignition on I roll the bike back and forth about 10 feet and the transmission goes into neutral which allow the bike to start. So I've heard I don't know batteries, I don't know about electronics, I should carry a second battery because this is normal for a Goldwing,Its operator error, I should go back to Harley, I'm a troll. So please tell me where I have failed and this somehow is a great and reliable bike. Please remember this is a new 2022 only a few months old with 2500 miles.
 

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blood boiling . Bought a battery yesterday at batteries plus and dealer agreed to put it in as after waiting two weeks they have no idea when an OEM will come. . I rode the bike yesterday and my rides consists of mostly 150 mile loops because I am afraid to shut the bike off away from home. I trickle charged the new glass pack battery all night put in the saddlebag to ride to the dealer and once again the bike would not start. There is no rur rur click click like times before there is simply nothing. Dash lights and headlights appear to be 100% strong . I put the battery on a 10amp charge and within minutes the charger reads charged . I check and 13.76 Volts. Turn the ignition on and hear a click I've never heard before. I realize ( and took a video) as soon as the ignition is engaged it puts the bike into first gear and renders the starter inactive. Once again there is no way to start the bike and no way to get it out of first gear as everything is electronic. I tried everything ,on the kick stand, off the kickstand , on the centerstand, nothing . Finally with ignition on I roll the bike back and forth about 10 feet and the transmission goes into neutral which allow the bike to start. So I've heard I don't know batteries, I don't know about electronics, I should carry a second battery because this is normal for a Goldwing,Its operator error, I should go back to Harley, I'm a troll. So please tell me where I have failed and this somehow is a great and reliable bike. Please remember this is a new 2022 only a few months old with 2500 miles.
You have a bad battery. Take it and have it load tested. A volt meter is useless, especially after taking if off of a charger. You read voltage without load. Load testing will tell you if the battery is good or not without any doubt. Take it to an Advanced Auto or Auto Zone will load test it for free.
 

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blood boiling . Bought a battery yesterday at batteries plus and dealer agreed to put it in as after waiting two weeks they have no idea when an OEM will come. . I rode the bike yesterday and my rides consists of mostly 150 mile loops because I am afraid to shut the bike off away from home. I trickle charged the new glass pack battery all night put in the saddlebag to ride to the dealer and once again the bike would not start. There is no rur rur click click like times before there is simply nothing. Dash lights and headlights appear to be 100% strong . I put the battery on a 10amp charge and within minutes the charger reads charged . I check and 13.76 Volts. Turn the ignition on and hear a click I've never heard before. I realize ( and took a video) as soon as the ignition is engaged it puts the bike into first gear and renders the starter inactive. Once again there is no way to start the bike and no way to get it out of first gear as everything is electronic. I tried everything ,on the kick stand, off the kickstand , on the centerstand, nothing . Finally with ignition on I roll the bike back and forth about 10 feet and the transmission goes into neutral which allow the bike to start. So I've heard I don't know batteries, I don't know about electronics, I should carry a second battery because this is normal for a Goldwing,Its operator error, I should go back to Harley, I'm a troll. So please tell me where I have failed and this somehow is a great and reliable bike. Please remember this is a new 2022 only a few months old with 2500 miles.
Batteries are easy to install. Do it your self.
 

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So what connects to the CT? Is there a gauge for it? TIA.
It outputs a certain voltage for the current passing through the wire. In basic and primitive terms you are using ohms law to calculate the output. I primarily use these on building automation controls to monitor motors. I don't know if there's an aftermarket company that makes these specifically for 12v automobile applications..
 

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blood boiling . Bought a battery yesterday at batteries plus and dealer agreed to put it in as after waiting two weeks they have no idea when an OEM will come. . I rode the bike yesterday and my rides consists of mostly 150 mile loops because I am afraid to shut the bike off away from home. I trickle charged the new glass pack battery all night put in the saddlebag to ride to the dealer and once again the bike would not start. There is no rur rur click click like times before there is simply nothing. Dash lights and headlights appear to be 100% strong . I put the battery on a 10amp charge and within minutes the charger reads charged . I check and 13.76 Volts. Turn the ignition on and hear a click I've never heard before. I realize ( and took a video) as soon as the ignition is engaged it puts the bike into first gear and renders the starter inactive. Once again there is no way to start the bike and no way to get it out of first gear as everything is electronic. I tried everything ,on the kick stand, off the kickstand , on the centerstand, nothing . Finally with ignition on I roll the bike back and forth about 10 feet and the transmission goes into neutral which allow the bike to start. So I've heard I don't know batteries, I don't know about electronics, I should carry a second battery because this is normal for a Goldwing,Its operator error, I should go back to Harley, I'm a troll. So please tell me where I have failed and this somehow is a great and reliable bike. Please remember this is a new 2022 only a few months old with 2500 miles.
This is a thing with the DCTs. Experienced it myself. There are threads about it. I have found that if I ensure I put the transmission in neutral before I shut off the engine, it never does this. I had to simply roll mine forward 5 feet to get it out of gear the one time it did happen.

These bikes do have their quirks. Harleys do, too. Taming the beast, so to speak.
 

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Turn the ignition on and hear a click I've never heard before. I realize ( and took a video) as soon as the ignition is engaged it puts the bike into first gear and renders the starter inactive. Once again there is no way to start the bike and no way to get it out of first gear as everything is electronic.
Hang on...are you saying you have the DCT in "N", then hit the start button and the bike goes into "D" all by itself???

If so, that is the first I ever heard of this issue.
 

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I feel for you. Really.

Desperate times. Is there another DCT owner you can locate (possibly through the dealer) you can chat/meet with to compare bikes and how you’re turning it off and on? I’m no techno wizard nor a diagnostician, but that would be cheap and easy way just to confirm you’re shutting down in Honda’s slightly idiosyncratic way.

The only other alternative (sigh) is to give it to the dealer and have their tech ride it a few days to let them see the issue firsthand. A royal PITA for sure, otherwise I got nothin’.

Good luck. (The problem you’re experiencing is unique, as far as I know. I don‘t recall anyone else since joining this forum in ‘19 experiencing repetitive flat batteries except for owners who weren’t shutting down their bikes in the prescribed fashion.)

Perhaps post where you live and another member within riding-for-lunch distance can meet with you.

Good luck. Don’t give up yet. This is diagnosable.

Tim
 

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blood boiling . Bought a battery yesterday at batteries plus and dealer agreed to put it in as after waiting two weeks they have no idea when an OEM will come. . I rode the bike yesterday and my rides consists of mostly 150 mile loops because I am afraid to shut the bike off away from home. I trickle charged the new glass pack battery all night put in the saddlebag to ride to the dealer and once again the bike would not start. There is no rur rur click click like times before there is simply nothing. Dash lights and headlights appear to be 100% strong . I put the battery on a 10amp charge and within minutes the charger reads charged . I check and 13.76 Volts. Turn the ignition on and hear a click I've never heard before. I realize ( and took a video) as soon as the ignition is engaged it puts the bike into first gear and renders the starter inactive. Once again there is no way to start the bike and no way to get it out of first gear as everything is electronic. I tried everything ,on the kick stand, off the kickstand , on the centerstand, nothing . Finally with ignition on I roll the bike back and forth about 10 feet and the transmission goes into neutral which allow the bike to start. So I've heard I don't know batteries, I don't know about electronics, I should carry a second battery because this is normal for a Goldwing,Its operator error, I should go back to Harley, I'm a troll. So please tell me where I have failed and this somehow is a great and reliable bike. Please remember this is a new 2022 only a few months old with 2500 miles.
I have a manual, but I'm pretty sure the DCT should be put into neutral, and the parking brake set before shutting down. Check out this thread:

 
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