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Per Honda:
During the first 300 miles (500 km) of running, follow these guidelines to ensure your motorcycle’s future reliability and performance.
● Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
● Avoid hard braking and rapid downshifts.
● Ride conservatively.

I think I'll change oil and filters at 300 miles to Pro Honda HP4S and then it's rapid acceleration time.

What I really hate is brand new bikes with cold engines being revved-up because someone wants to hear what it sounds like.
 

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Some will say run the rpms up and let it engine brake a few times to seat the rings.

It seems when touring the Marysville plant they ran em pretty hard at the end of the line dyno.

They violated the take it easy for 300 miles before it even hit the crate.


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● Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
● Avoid hard braking and rapid downshifts.
● Ride conservatively.
Well, you don't really expect them to say "ride the snot out of it as soon as you get on" do you? :wink2:
 

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A lot of folks tend to think primarily of pistons and rings when considering break-in but, imho, it's more about conditioning the high stress rubbing parts, cam lobes and gear teeth come into this category. There are other parts too, like allowing rubber oil seal lips to polish up without overheating.

A bike that is driven hard from day one will produce more power but that's normally because it is being pre-worn and the mechanical clearances quickly increase so the friction reduces but, of course, they have a shorter life and tend to be rattley and whiney sounding in comparison to a nicely run engine.
 

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I generally follow the guidelines from the manufacturer but, as the instructions allow an increase in RPM I make sure that I do increase the RPM and do some running at higher RPMs till I bump up to the Rev Limiter. And, I run at different RPMs for the "break in" period, no steady state running. Although, I don't accelerate or brake hard unless I really have to. Then, as I get to the end of the break in I'll accelerate and brake harder.

In normal driving I'll also make sure that I do occasional heavy acceleration and braking.
 

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New engines are not like your daddy's. New metal alloys, much closer machine tolerances, new non-metallic parts. Bottom line is new engines don't follow the same rules. Therefore, I am going to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Also, engines need to use regular dino oil until surfaces a "broken in". Otherwise they will not seat properly for long term wear. Again, would follow mfg. recommendations.
 

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Also, engines need to use regular dino oil until surfaces a "broken in". Otherwise they will not seat properly for long term wear. Again, would follow mfg. recommendations.
That advice is out the window too as some new bikes come with synthetic fill. Yes, follow the mgr's recommendations.

:doorag:
 

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I broke-in my last 3 BMW on the slab. But I tried to vary the speed and when someone was coming behind I rev up.

I think clean oil is a good bet on breaking engine, thus I too will change my oil and filters after the 300mi. mark.

When I am on the slab riding hard, I like to change the oil every 3k. When I am piddling around commuting at home I let it fly until it starts looking dirty or around 6k.

You cannot argue against clean oil...oh, I guess you can.
 

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Pretty. Much normal riding . For fly and buy or others that will hit the interstate during the break-in period, avoid using cruise control and vary your rpm.
 

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New engines are not like your daddy's. New metal alloys, much closer machine tolerances, new non-metallic parts. Bottom line is new engines don't follow the same rules. Therefore, I am going to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Also, engines need to use regular dino oil until surfaces a "broken in". Otherwise they will not seat properly for long term wear. Again, would follow mfg. recommendations.
BMWs come new with synthetic oil.
 

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"Ride it the way you ride it!"

That's what the dealer I worked for told customers. "What's the use of babying it if you're gonna run the snot out of it anyway?"

Words of wisdom there?
 

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"Ride it the way you ride it!"

That's what the dealer I worked for told customers. "What's the use of babying it if you're gonna run the snot out of it anyway?"

Words of wisdom there?
Ride it like ya stole it! :joke:

:doorag:
 

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"Ride it the way you ride it!"

That's what the dealer I worked for told customers. "What's the use of babying it if you're gonna run the snot out of it anyway?"

Words of wisdom there?
I will say this: I used to baby my RT's rpm cause the RT tends to lose its smoothness after 70mph or so. Lo and behold, once I was outrunning a storm that scared the puupu out of me and I was doing 100-110+. Well I found out that the RT run smooth again once you get up on the higher RPM, sort like another octave of sweet harmonics. I never babied them after that.

Its been hard for me being as an old fart to get used to the idea of cranking these new engines to higher rpm than we used to when we rode them old strokers. These new higher rpm engines are definitely different creatures in the combustion chamber schemes.

Be that as it may, I don't think its wise to disregard Mother-Honda on how the engine should be broken in.
 

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Break-in oil... LOL! 300 miles, 500 miles... What is this, 1975? Sheesh... what a waste... :roll: :roll:
:roll:
 

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I broke-in my last 3 BMW on the slab. But I tried to vary the speed and when someone was coming behind I rev up.

I think clean oil is a good bet on breaking engine, thus I too will change my oil and filters after the 300mi. mark.

When I am on the slab riding hard, I like to change the oil every 3k. When I am piddling around commuting at home I let it fly until it starts looking dirty or around 6k.

You cannot argue against clean oil...oh, I guess you can.
Once you dump it in, it isn't "clean" anymore. It certainly isn't "clean" at 500 miles. :roll:

The funny thing is that you're doing the exact opposite what is reality. It's the piddling around commuting at home that is harder on the oil.

I argue against wasting oil.
.
 
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