[carolinarider10]

I have a Bushtec Trailer hitch installed on my 2015 Level 1 Goldwing. I tow a Hannigan GL Series trailer.

The hitch is a vertical receiver type and mates with the frame mounted portion of the hitch by sliding inside a sleeve and is locked in place with a locking pin. There is also a bolt on the receiver (at the back of the hitch) that is suppose to be tightened. I can no longer tighten this bolt, therefore the hitch itself is can move a little inside the vertical assembly.

My question is the fact that I can no longer tight this bolt an issue? I have tried some sprays on the bolt to try and make it rotate at least outwardly so I could determine what the issue might be. So far, I am unable to rotate the bolt and did not want to apply so much force for fear of stripping the threads.

I have tired to contact Bushtec several times to ask this question and have never had my calls returned (Tech Support).

Thanks.

 

[TexanTrail]

Is there a lock nut on that bolt up against the hitch? If so, loosen that nut, then loosen the bolt.

 

[carolinarider10]

I did check for the lock nut as I remember there was one. However, it appears that the nut the bolt threads into is welded to the hitch. I cleaned the area and will check again with a brighter light. The weld might just be debris.

 

[Cleaver]

Rattle

I think the bolt just keeps the insert from rattling. Should still operate ok, just may have an annoying little rattle when not hooked to a trailer.

 

[TexanTrail]

It's not welded. The pic is from Buchtec installation instructions.

 

[carolinarider10]

Thanks. I put some liquid wrench the "nut" and will let it set for awhile and re-try with a 9/16" wrench.

 

[carolinarider10]

Went out using headlamp and small brush found this area around the nut on the receiver. I did get it to tighten (the bolt) a quarter of a turn so it is now tight but, as you can see in the picture there is something that was painted black, on the receiver which looks like a weld.

 

[mack]

There should be a nut on the bolt that once you snug the bolt you can tighten the nut against the welded nut to keep the bolt from loosening, from the picture you are missing the nut, as the welded nut is correct and should be there should be as is.

 

[WY88]

Not to say what I do is correct but last week same thing happened to me, but not on my bike, nothing worked till I put my high torque impact wrench to it. Fixed.

 

[carolinarider10]

Thanks. I will attempt to remove the bolt after using some more lubricant and add a nut. The bolt is hard to turn, so, I will have to take it easy. Don't want to strip the threads.

 

[Mr. Whiskey]

2¢ worth...
Dump the liquid wrench, get some PB Blaster:thumbup:

 

[GLblinded]

Thanks. I will attempt to remove the bolt after using some more lubricant and add a nut. The bolt is hard to turn, so, I will have to take it easy. Don't want to strip the threads.

If the penetrating oil doesn’t do it for you, get the propane torch out and warm it up. Heat the welded on nut to expand it and let the bolt loosen/spin. I’ve used a heat gun on 3&4mm bolts in engine cases that were painted black without damaging the paint. Good luck.

 

[Big_Bear]

Put a few drops of brake fluid on the bolt and let it seep in. When you get a wrench on it work the bolt out a little and then back in. Work it back out a little more then back again. Do this a little at a time until the bolt is finally out. You may need to add a drop or two of brake fluid to the bolt as you work it back and forth. This method will help save your threads and clean them at the same time.

 

[JJ Dunnit]

Put a few drops of brake fluid on the bolt and let it seep in. When you get a wrench on it work the bolt out a little and then back in. Work it back out a little more then back again. Do this a little at a time until the bolt is finally out. You may need to add a drop or two of brake fluid to the bolt as you work it back and forth. This method will help save your threads and clean them at the same time.

Brake fluid will strip any painted surface that it gets on. I would suggest ATF + Kroil instead.

 

[carolinarider10]

2¢ worth...
Dump the liquid wrench, get some PB Blaster:thumbup:

I have some PB Blaster and would be happy to use it but the nozzle is clogged and I did not want to take the time to unclog it. Its one of the few, if not the only aresoal can of non paint stuff I have had clog.

Will soak it in something tomorrow. the can is almost full. I don't use if often.

 

[carolinarider10]

If the penetrating oil doesn’t do it for you, get the propane torch out and warm it up. Heat the welded on nut to expand it and let the bolt loosen/spin. I’ve used a heat gun on 3&4mm bolts in engine cases that were painted black without damaging the paint. Good luck.

I have a fairly "warm" heat gun that I might try. Like that idea far better than a propane torch in the confined space.

I frankly forgot about heating the joint. One more option.

 

[Big_Bear]

Brake fluid will strip any painted surface that it gets on. I would suggest ATF + Kroil instead.

It's an unpainted bolt with corroded threads on a trailer hitch on the underside of his Wing. I recommended a few "drops" on the bolt, not on the paint job. Brake fluid has been used by many mechanics thru the years to help break rusted exhaust manifold bolts loose. Those are about the most difficult bolts to break free on any vehicle.

 

[carolinarider10]

Update:

When out this afternoon and since I was reminded by JJ Dunnit of the ATF + Kroil mixture (which I have in one of those pressurized spray containers) I sprayed some on the bolt, nut area and waited a few minutes.

Got my 9/16" wrench and slowly pulled the bolt out. It was a little hard at first but got a little easier as it turned out.

Cleaned the bolt, found a compatible nut, put nut on the bolt, rethreaded and tightened the bolt and then the nut.

Thanks to all that contributed to this thread. I feel better now that it seems to be installed and working as designed.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

Went out using headlamp and small brush found this area around the nut on the receiver. I did get it to tighten (the bolt) a quarter of a turn so it is now tight but, as you can see in the picture there is something that was painted black, on the receiver which looks like a weld.

On your cinch bolt, its lock nut is missing. Also, are you sure the thread pitch on the cinch is correct. I your picture, and from my quarterback seat, it looks like it might be a metric thread. I believe the correct bolt is SAE 5/16 coarse thread.

Yes ... for threads on their hitch, BushTec welds a nut on it. As for leaving the bolt loose, it creates back-lash in the hitch. Any back lash will exaggerate all handling and braking issues. Actually, it can create them also. Trailering with a m/c makes a trip more dangerous. Therefore, make sure your hitch is nice and tight, be sure to have a full-swivel, and all other systems are working correctly ... like having good brakes, and by checking the air pressures in all tires.

 

[carolinarider10]

On your cinch bolt, its lock nut is missing. Also, are you sure the thread pitch on the cinch is correct. I your picture, and from my quarterback seat, it looks like it might be a metric thread. I believe the correct bolt is SAE 5/16 coarse thread.

Yes ... for threads on their hitch, BushTec welds a nut on it. As for leaving the bolt loose, it creates back-lash in the hitch. Any back lash will exaggerate all handling and braking issues. Actually, it can create them also. Trailering with a m/c makes a trip more dangerous. Therefore, make sure your hitch is nice and tight, be sure to have a full-swivel, and all other systems are working correctly ... like having good brakes, and by checking the air pressures in all tires.

The answer is the cinch bolt lock nut was missing. Since I installed the hitch, I cannot say why I did not install it. It is now installed.

The issue was, basically, I could not rotate the cinch bolt. In retrospect it was corroded and therefore not free to turn. After application of several "loosening" chemicals, it moved and I was able to get it out. I cleaned the bolt, added the locking nut and tightened both (bolt first).

The trailer has a full-swivel hitch.

My original question was, what are the problems with a hitch that was not tight in the receiver. In retrospect, after I asked the question, it occurred to me that I have a similar setup on my 1996 Ford Explorer in that the hitch slides into a socket allowing me to change out the hitch with different drops and ball sizes. The hitch is not "loose" but it is not locked into place the way the hitch on my motorcycle is now. I will check, there might be a locking bolt on that hitch.