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Plan to buy the hitch from Hal's site. Question is do I also need to purchase the isolator kit? Is the wiring in the rivco kit all I need??

Roadrat
 

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Hey, I ordered the same one last night and was wandering the same thing....If you find out something post it here if you would. thanks
J
 

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Isolator comes with the Rivco hitch assembly. Hint: You can tuck it into the amplifier box to secure it.

Bradford
 
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Rivco comes with all you need. Mine is an '02 and installation was easy, but slow. Read all directions. I love that hitch, and I love the fact that it can be removed and the reflector re-installed. I mounted my trailer plut on the bottom of the trunk, like I saw on a forum here. It disappears also when not in use.
 
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Plan to buy the hitch from Hal's site. Question is do I also need to purchase the isolator kit? Is the wiring in the rivco kit all I need??

Roadrat
Yep, the isolator comes with the Rivco hitch and standard is a 3" drop. The install was easy but the hardest part was finding a place for all the wiring! I couldn't get the isolator into the amp box, besides, I figure it would get pretty hot in there. I ended up squeezing it along the side between the fender and amp box. The lumpy wire connectors get in the way of the rear fender going back on so they have to be as flat as possible or tucked along the side otherwise the rear fender is a PITA to get back on. A beautiful hitch though. You'll love it. Here is a link on this forum for full install help with photos: http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141255&highlight=Rivco+instructions Note: I don't think Coolhand's wing had the amplifier box but he has great instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the replies!!

Couple of things---"amplifier box"...where is it located?
"drop hitch"...should get 3" or 6" drop???

And last thing---the link to instruction doesn't work.

RR
 
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Thanks for all the replies!!

Couple of things---"amplifier box"...where is it located?
"drop hitch"...should get 3" or 6" drop???

And last thing---the link to instruction doesn't work.

RR
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141255&highlight=Rivco+instructions

The amplifier box on newer Goldwings (with the Premium Audio pkg) is behind the rear fender.

The drop you need is based on the trailer you will pull but I feel the majority of all trailers take the 3" drop. I pull a Tailwind and use the 6" drop but I'm betting I could get away with either 3" or 6". Check how high your trailer tongue sits when you have the trailer level or at the attitude you want to pull it at. Since the receiver bar will come out where the rear deflector is on the fender, measure the difference between the two accordingly. Don't forget to put on a long enough mud flap.
 

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For safest towing the trailer needs to be 2 to 3 degrees below level as in nose low.

Bradford
 
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For safest towing the trailer needs to be 2 to 3 degrees below level as in nose low.

Bradford
Former words of wisdom from John Preston that has absolutely no legitimate reasoning for it whatsoever. If I am wrong, then please state said reasoning for "safest towing" WHY the trailer needs to be 2 to 3 degrees below level. Do you know just how small 2 to 3 degrees is? So, if I pull my trailer level I'm not as safe? :wrong: But hey, if you can state some scientific reasoning or laws of physics that are in play here, by all means, please enlighten me cause I'm always willing to learn something I didn't know before.
 

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Former words of wisdom from John Preston that has absolutely no legitimate reasoning for it whatsoever. If I am wrong, then please state said reasoning for "safest towing" WHY the trailer needs to be 2 to 3 degrees below level. Do you know just how small 2 to 3 degrees is? So, if I pull my trailer level I'm not as safe? :wrong: But hey, if you can state some scientific reasoning or laws of physics that are in play here, by all means, please enlighten me cause I'm always willing to learn something I didn't know before.
I'm only guessing here, but if the nose of the trailer is lower than the tail, it pretty much guarantees the novice packer has the nose heavier than the tail and the tail won't wag the dog going down the road. Plus the contents won't have the tendency to shift rearward as the trailer goes bouncing down the road. Maybe? :shrug:
 
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I'm only guessing here, but if the nose of the trailer is lower than the tail, it pretty much guarantees the novice packer has the nose heavier than the tail and the tail won't wag the dog going down the road. Plus the contents won't have the tendency to shift rearward as the trailer goes bouncing down the road. Maybe? :shrug:
Duane: This was the exact reasoning I surmised (but I think a bit more than 2 or 3 degrees would be needed).

I believe that is the ONLY logical conclusion one can come up with for the comment in question. However, this would actually be based on the slope or shape of the particular trailer floor and really has nothing to do with the attitude of the trailer (just the floor of the trailer). As in the Bushtec, which has mostly a flat floor, having it nose down may prevent the contents from bouncing around aft of the wheels causing the cg (center of gravity) to go aft as well. But in a trailer like the Tailwind, it was designed with floors that slope front and rear toward the center axle/wheels area and this nicely prevents the trailer contents from sliding precariously aft of center.

So, as long as this view is understood by the novice trailer pullers here then they will better understand why I questioned the comment (safer towing with 2 or 3 degree nose down) as having no credibility whatsoever. To be perfectly accurate, 2 or 3 degrees nose down has NOTHING AT ALL to do with a safer pulling trailer but having the center of gravity forward of the wheels is what is desired and required for safety. Having 10% to 15% of the weight one is pulling a target for desirable tongue weight is just another way of saying keep your cg forward of the wheels. Ie: if pulling a trailer weighing 400 lbs, one should have approximately 40 lbs of weight on the tongue or trailer hitch ball. It doesn't matter to the trailer (or is it relative to towing safety) if it is going up hill, down hill or perfectly level! It's irrelevant. :thumbup:
 

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Hmmmm...interesting comments

My guess would be if the nose was tilted downward a bit it would ensure proper weight on the hitch:shrug:
Never really thought about it.

AS for things sliding around....I have a Bushtec...whenever I have used it the contents stay put...nothing slides around in there....could be because I pack it correctly??
 

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Rivco Hitch

Roadrat, The instructions will be in the box, very detailed, great hitch.....John :thumbup:
 

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Put my RIVCO hitch on last year. Very easy install (assuming you follow instructions, and are confident with your use of a dremmel on tupperware).
Love being able to hide hitch when not in use. I put a dual electrical connection on the fender (standard 4 prong, along with round 7 prong). I sometimes use a friends trailer which is 4 prong, my bushtec has a round connector.
Found electrical connector at RV supply down the road from my house, looks nice, it's square with both connectors active and weather protected.
Enjoy pulling.

:congrats:
 
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Hmmmm...interesting comments

My guess would be if the nose was tilted downward a bit it would ensure proper weight on the hitch:shrug:
Only if the trailer you were towing was half full of water... :22yikes: :lol::lol::lol:
 
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