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Run any alternator equipped vehicle with the battery disconnected and see what happens when you reconnect it while the engine is running. Say goodbye to that alternator. A loose battery connection is even worse. The battery acts to absorb or shunt AC voltage spikes and transient voltage spikes to ground. Without the ability to absorb the spikes the transients run throughout the electrical system looking for a path to ground. Every circuit that has a semiconducter in it is vulnerable to destruction. Cruise control, audio, ECM, DCT transmission power control module, etc.

It's not the low voltage that is damaging, it is spikes of high voltage.

Thing to do is not let the connections on a battery get loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #405
Run any alternator equipped vehicle with the battery disconnected and see what happens when you reconnect it while the engine is running. Say goodbye to that alternator. A loose battery connection is even worse. The battery acts to absorb or shunt AC voltage spikes and transient voltage spikes to ground. Without the ability to absorb the spikes the transients run throughout the electrical system looking for a path to ground. Every circuit that has a semiconducter in it is vulnerable to destruction. Cruise control, audio, ECM, DCT transmission power control module, etc.

It's not the low voltage that is damaging, it is spikes of high voltage.

Thing to do is not let the connections on a battery get loose.
Got to add that to the regular maintenance check list.
 

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Run any alternator equipped vehicle with the battery disconnected and see what happens when you reconnect it while the engine is running. Say goodbye to that alternator. A loose battery connection is even worse. The battery acts to absorb or shunt AC voltage spikes and transient voltage spikes to ground. Without the ability to absorb the spikes the transients run throughout the electrical system looking for a path to ground. Every circuit that has a semiconducter in it is vulnerable to destruction. Cruise control, audio, ECM, DCT transmission power control module, etc.

It's not the low voltage that is damaging, it is spikes of high voltage.

Thing to do is not let the connections on a battery get loose.
I agree. Running an engine with a loose battery cable is a recipe for alternator/regulator damage. If the OP found a battery cable loose, then this could very well be the cause of the problem.
 

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I served a year as a parts manager several years ago in a multi-line dealership and Honda had far and away the best order platform and logistical network. If I ordered a part it generally arrived in two days or overnight if entered as a time critical order. I set an alarm on my phone to give me 15 minutes before the critical order daily deadline and plenty of times I was sweating seconds up to "enter". If I expedited a part request sometimes the part would come directly from Japan if it was not in the states. That happened a couple of times but you did have to justify the request to Honda. However, I can only imagine what C-19 then the ransom ware attack has done to supply networks.
 

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I’ve had a couple items be late because of “civil unrest” as an excuse on UPS and Fedex when tracking a package. Seems to happen only when trucking through the big cities between Friday and Monday. Definitely this thread has made me go out and check my terminals. The people that have added the battery tender pigtails have to be careful because if not oriented properly the side cover will rub the terminals and most likely can cause them to lossen from vibrations
 

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I have not added a fuse block but after reading all these posts I think it may be a good idea to lessen likely hood of connections loosening. Any suggestions? I see a wide range of prices.
 

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This thread is now prompting me to go out to my garage, remove the battery cover from my F6B, and check the tightness of my battery terminals.
I replaced the battery last year and haven't checked the terminals since.

Just checked.
Of course it's a Goldwing with zero engine vibration.
Still very tight.
Whew!
 

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Discussion Starter #412
This thread is now prompting me to go out to my garage, remove the battery cover from my F6B, and check the tightness of my battery terminals.
I replaced the battery last year and haven't checked the terminals since.

Just checked.
Of course it's a Goldwing with zero engine vibration.
Still very tight.
Whew!
Then my work here is done.
 

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30 in/lb is the torque spec on the battery terminals in case anyone cares. I may have already mentioned it, but it never hurts to use a torque wrench. Too tight you can damage the terminal or bolts, too loose, well we see pretty clearly that is not a good thing for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #415
30 in/lb is the torque spec on the battery terminals in case anyone cares. I may have already mentioned it, but it never hurts to use a torque wrench. Too tight you can damage the terminal or bolts, too loose, well we see pretty clearly that is not a good thing for sure.
How would that apply if using a battery tender pigtail. Probably want to use a lock washer?
 

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How would that apply if using a battery tender pigtail. Probably want to use a lock washer?
I've got a battery tender pigtail on mine.
No lock washer, just a good firm tightening with a large slotted screwdriver.
30 in-lbs is only 2.5 ft-lbs.
I know i tightened my terminals to way more than 2.5 ft-lbs with that large screwdriver.
 

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I tighten both the goldwing, and my yamaha battery terminals to 30 in/lb with or without the pigtails. Works fine in my opinion. The tender pigtails, and probably most other things guys add to the battery terminals are normally pretty soft metal and the metal can eventually compress slightly, and the terminals can become loose over time. I never tried a lock washer, just recheck the torque once in a while on the terminal bolts, but lock washer would probably work as well. 30 in/lb with any screwdriver, even a large one, is a pretty hefty turn. That is fine, but it takes a good large screwdriver if you go that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #418
I tighten both the goldwing, and my yamaha battery terminals to 30 in/lb with or without the pigtails. Works fine in my opinion. The tender pigtails, and probably most other things guys add to the battery terminals are normally pretty soft metal and the metal can eventually compress slightly, and the terminals can become loose over time. I never tried a lock washer, just recheck the torque once in a while on the terminal bolts, but lock washer would probably work as well. 30 in/lb with any screwdriver, even a large one, is a pretty hefty turn. That is fine, but it takes a good large screwdriver if you go that way.
At this point, given what I know now that the horse(power) has left the barn, I'll use a star washer beneath the pigtail connector. This is not something I want ever to have to worry about again.
 

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I have a feeling that all this discussion is zeroing in on the cause and subsequent reason for failure (read the above 10-15 posts). The wonders of group thinking!
Knowing this, isn't it about time that connections for major positive and negative wires on a battery be done in such a way that they cannot wiggle loose? Surely putting man on the moon and ketchup in tiny necked bottles, we can invent and use a connector that is either plugged in, or not. No ambiguity, no looseness or half hearted wrenching and torque requirements.
SNAP! And it is connected. UNSNAP and it is removed.
I NEVER could understand that. And battery cable clamps onto soft metal on car battery posts (yes, some are side screwed in, loose?), yikes!
 
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