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Discussion Starter #1
I just put Centramatic on my front and rear wheel of my GL1800. I cannot believe the suggestions of tipping your bike over etc to put the balance ring on your rear. It took me 50 minutes taking my time for both front and rear. Here is how I installed the system

1) First I put the bike on the centerstand. Remove the 5 lug nuts. Pull the rear wheel off-let it rest to the left of the lug nuts. No need to tip bike over or even pull the tire out. The ring is only 3/8" thick at the ring portion--you have plenty of room to fit the ring/plate in between the wheel and the lug nut bolts. Put rear wheel back on.Tighten to 80 ft lbs. Done.

2)Leave bike on centerstand, jack up at engine block front end 1". remove fender, brake calipers,pull out axle, pinch bolts. Remove wheel. Remove rotor install Centramatic-reinstall rotor. Repeat other side. Reinstall wheel bolts nuts, and fender. Eat pie

Ride--report after 8K miles
 

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You just had your think'n cap on straight! ;-)

Here is another one, if it works (I have not tried it yet -- just bathroom thinkinng).

When removing the front wheel/tire assembly, we have all (I hope) learned by now that the LEFT brake calip does not need to be removed as Honda states. We typically remove the RIGHT one, which is esier as it is less complex and more common fasteners. It occured to me that maybe, just maybe, neigher caliper neeeds to be remove, but rather just drop the brake pads of that left caliper to get the needed wiggle room. Waddya think?

prs
 

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I also support the rear wheel in a similar manner and slip the Centramatic off/on before removing or installing the wheel. I would not want to dent the race my balls run in :shock:.
I also put a scrap piece of thin aluminum sheet over the lugs so nothing scratches my rims (anai :shrug:).
When changing any brake pads I unbolt all calipers, hang them with rope to keep tension off hoses and clean calipers using a squirt bottle with Simple Green and a tooth brush (someone else's) followed by a squirt bottle rinse with clean water. The pistons get cleaned with brake cleaner prior to pushing them in to accept the new pads. All slider boots get injected with silicone disc break grease using a 12 cc curved tip Monoject syringe. I don't like to tear boots with screw drivers.
Again a little anal but that is why I won't let a Honda tech service my bike. They don't care about anything but time. I know you guys know not to use compressed air to clean calipers but I mention it so others don't do it. The pad dust is very bad if inhaled and will damage paint :shock:.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You are very correct on brake dust being corrosive to paint
 

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Wheel won't clear both calipers! One has to be removed. And yes brake dust also corrosive to chrome wheels too!
Buckskin:shock::shock:m:joke:kk:joke::shock::?:j



QUOTE=Pigeon Roost;3358402]You just had your think'n cap on straight! ;-)

Here is another one, if it works (I have not tried it yet -- just bathroom thinkinng).

When removing the front wheel/tire assembly, we have all (I hope) learned by now that the LEFT brake calip does not need to be removed as Honda states. We typically remove the RIGHT one, which is esier as it is less complex and more common fasteners. It occured to me that maybe, just maybe, neigher caliper neeeds to be remove, but rather just drop the brake pads of that left caliper to get the needed wiggle room. Waddya think?

prs[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think your right you could just loosen and dangle just the left caliper but I loosened and removed both brake calipers and front part of fender,
 
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